Scope Mounting and Zero Position (HELP WANTED)

B

brent373

Member
Rating - 100%
16   0   0
Location
Ontario
Im not sure if this question belongs here or in the optics section but I figure the long range guru's will have the best answers :)

From what I have discovered on the google machine so far, every scope has a "mechanical zero" as i have heard it called. This is the center of the adjustable range of the scope. Now when mounting a scope to a rifle that you intend to shoot, say between 100 and 1000 yards, should this "mech zero" be set to the center of that yardage range (500yd) OR, should the range of adjustment be set near the bottom of the travel, and zeroed for your closest distance, leaving more positive vertical adjustment to work with? Both questions asked with the assumption that the scope has enough adjustment to work either way.

Does all that make sense??
Thanks for the help.
 
Last edited:
I look at it a little different but you are on the right track. Let’s say your scope has 70 MOA (minute of angel) of travel. So mechanical center of your scope would leave you with 35 MOA of travel in all directions. Windage is minor because gravity will drop you out of you adjustment range before wind will so let’s forget about that. So now you know you have roughly 35 MOA of vertical adjustment to account for bullet drop.

Let’s say the calibre you have chosen will drop 20 MOA at 750 Yards. You are still good with a normal set up. Now you want to stretch out to 1200 yards and you figure you will drop 37 MOA. Now your scope will not give you enough adjustment. To give you enough adjustment you have to mount your scope on an angle.

There are companies Like Farrell, Warne, Badger, Nightforce, Leupold and many more that make Picatinny rails that have a built in angle to give you more adjustment. A common one is a 20 MOA rail. This will pitch your scope down 20 moa right on the gun which will give you extra adjustment. You will have to adjust your scope 20 moa off center to zero it so now on your original 35 moa adjustment you have an extra 20 giving you 55 MOA of useable adjustment. Now your setup will take you farther than 1200 yards and you are good to go.
 
Burris Signature rings with eccentric inserts are an easy way to help with elevation. If the mount has incorporated windage, use that to rough zero and keep the internal windage centered to start.
 
Thanks for the input so far guys but im a little slow and still not clear on what the best way is. My only concern with zeroing at the bottom of the travel is that at the extreme end of the adjustment, will the linearity of the adjustability be affected and the optics not as efficient? Its possible im overthinking a simple thing.
 
brent373 said:
Thanks for the input so far guys but im a little slow and still not clear on what the best way is. My only concern with zeroing at the bottom of the travel is that at the extreme end of the adjustment, will the linearity of the adjustability be affected and the optics not as efficient? Its possible im overthinking a simple thing.
Click to expand...

A picture is worth 1000 words. Notice how the front is thinner than the rear of the base. That is the 20 MOA of extra adjustment. And a Tasco may have problems limited out but if your scope has the gold emblem on it I would not worry about it ;)

DSC00912.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom