Just installed a new Troy stock on my norinco m14 rifle... Now the problem is when I put a mag in fire it then take a mag out the little pin that holds the op-rod in place slide out and the op-rod sticks out into the magazine well... How do I fix this???
M14 ...is it broken????
- Thread starter Guerrilla
- Start date
Deltasilver
Regular
- Location
- Right behind you...
*snicker*
Norinco M14 clone, $500.00
Troy Industries SOPMOD stock, $1200.00
Having a buddy who knows how to glue a popsicle stick into the stock so the rifle will function properly? Priceless.
Norinco M14 clone, $500.00
Troy Industries SOPMOD stock, $1200.00
Having a buddy who knows how to glue a popsicle stick into the stock so the rifle will function properly? Priceless.
problem is, IIRC that norincos' pin are metric.
m1as' pin are imperial
Knowing this, you realize there is clearance for tha pin, and quite frankly, if you don't wanna use a popsicle stick to fix this is easy problem, find yourself something more expensive if you fancy it. A plasma welded Titanium piece would be my choice if I was so worried about realizing cheap fixes actually work. However, be sure to use a popsicle stick as a model because they have the perfect height and width!!
m1as' pin are imperial
Knowing this, you realize there is clearance for tha pin, and quite frankly, if you don't wanna use a popsicle stick to fix this is easy problem, find yourself something more expensive if you fancy it. A plasma welded Titanium piece would be my choice if I was so worried about realizing cheap fixes actually work. However, be sure to use a popsicle stick as a model because they have the perfect height and width!!
The problem is the Norinco pin sits flush with the side of the receiver and requires the stock to contact it to keep it from sliding laterally. Without this, it will work its way out. I have no idea how a US made M14 pin looks (never had the pleasure), but clearly from looking at USGI stocks, they need that area built up to all the stock to retain it laterally. Possibly a longer pin would change the whole situation, but its easier to just place something inside the stock to fill the gap. Its not a precision affair. Ever take apart a ruger 10-22? The pins will fall out on some after you remove it from the stock. The stock holds the pin from moving out.
9mikemike
CGN frequent flyer
Popsicle stick, how ridiculous nothing that cheap can possibly work, get a life. I need to spend at least $$ for it to work.......
Send it to me and I'll send you a stock that doesn't have that problem.
Send it to me and I'll send you a stock that doesn't have that problem.
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
Take your rifle out of the Troy. Put it back into the original stock. Shoot the hell out of it. Send the Troy to me. I will dispose of it correctly.
Here is a thread on making a pin using USGI length and Norinco diameter
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325600&highlight=pin
Edit:
Quote from a post from GG&FB
The two best, safest fixes are.
Put a block in the stock, glue it in. Fast, safe and easy.
The other choice is buy a USGI connector pin, put it on a lathe and turn it down a few thou to fit the Norc receiver. I have done this many times for stocks that where used with both Chi-com and US made receivers.
The external hardness of pin may be gone, but this isn't really an issue with this part especially when using a NM type op-rod spring guide.
Here are two USGI pins,
on the left : NEW .1975
on the right : turned down to .194 which fit in my norc
The original norinco pin that was in receiver was .191
Here is a photo of a Norc with a flush pin, and a US made M1A with USGI pin.
GG&FB
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325600&highlight=pin
Edit:
Quote from a post from GG&FB
The two best, safest fixes are.
Put a block in the stock, glue it in. Fast, safe and easy.
The other choice is buy a USGI connector pin, put it on a lathe and turn it down a few thou to fit the Norc receiver. I have done this many times for stocks that where used with both Chi-com and US made receivers.
The external hardness of pin may be gone, but this isn't really an issue with this part especially when using a NM type op-rod spring guide.
Here are two USGI pins,
on the left : NEW .1975
on the right : turned down to .194 which fit in my norc
The original norinco pin that was in receiver was .191
Here is a photo of a Norc with a flush pin, and a US made M1A with USGI pin.
GG&FB
What HOLLEYMAN said,
and congrats for the great visual aids
EXCEPT,
the damn US GI pins are harder than the bearings in the hubs of hell.
These days, if I want a longer pin, I just chop down a piece of 5 MM round hard steel that I scrounged from the front axle of a mountain bike quick release. Top quality hardened steel, already the correct OD. You just have to cut it to length and drill the hole for the tiny retaining pin.
And that is lots of fun.
Start the hole with a very small Dremel abrasive bit, then do your drilling.
Good luck with that,
and,
"A plasma welded Titanium piece would be my choice if I was so worried about realizing cheap fixes actually work."
Charles Emond obviously MUST have years of experience as a government contractor or supplier of some sort, because that is obviously the choice any public trough funded Govt agency would make .... no popsicle sticks allowed in the proper official supply channels for sure.
Maybe the TROY, MK 1, C1 A1 version, designed for the Canuckistani market, and all their Oriental M14 clones, will have that modded in?
[;{)
LAZ 1
and congrats for the great visual aids
EXCEPT,
the damn US GI pins are harder than the bearings in the hubs of hell.
These days, if I want a longer pin, I just chop down a piece of 5 MM round hard steel that I scrounged from the front axle of a mountain bike quick release. Top quality hardened steel, already the correct OD. You just have to cut it to length and drill the hole for the tiny retaining pin.
And that is lots of fun.
Start the hole with a very small Dremel abrasive bit, then do your drilling.
Good luck with that,
and,
"A plasma welded Titanium piece would be my choice if I was so worried about realizing cheap fixes actually work."
Charles Emond obviously MUST have years of experience as a government contractor or supplier of some sort, because that is obviously the choice any public trough funded Govt agency would make .... no popsicle sticks allowed in the proper official supply channels for sure.
Maybe the TROY, MK 1, C1 A1 version, designed for the Canuckistani market, and all their Oriental M14 clones, will have that modded in?
[;{)
LAZ 1
- Location
- victoria bc
i used jb weld on a usgi stock, worked like a charm, finishes nice, really cheap, if it makes you feel better sprinkle some gold dust in the jb weld to add to the bling factor...
I used the chuck side of a #9 drill bit, it is soft enough to drill and is a perfect fit. Dimentions are as follows:
The dimentions to make a USGI connector lock in length is 0.84" long and the diameter for a Norinco use a #9 drill shank (0.195")
The dimentions to make a USGI connector lock in length is 0.84" long and the diameter for a Norinco use a #9 drill shank (0.195")
sixty9santa
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I guess Guerrilla feels silly now, dontcha?
But if you really want to spend do this:
Drill, counter bore, tap and screw in a socket head cap screw that has been trimmed to the proper length.
or
Drill, tap and shove a set screw in there.
Oh and Guerrilla, use thread locker (i.e.: Loctite) but only once the set/cap screw barely touches the pin.
But if you really want to spend do this:
Drill, counter bore, tap and screw in a socket head cap screw that has been trimmed to the proper length.
or
Drill, tap and shove a set screw in there.
Oh and Guerrilla, use thread locker (i.e.: Loctite) but only once the set/cap screw barely touches the pin.
