38spl or 38spl +p

[Radar]

Doing some house cleaning and time to thin out the brass. Trying to decide which brass to keep and which is better for reloading. To be used in a 686 revolver and Marlin 357 rifle.
Regular head stamped 38 or 38+p? Nickle or brass brass better?.

 

[Canuck223]

Nickle brass seems to split at a faster rate than plain brass.

 

[Casper]

I've had the same results, the nickle seems to split faster, but the nickle cleans much faster, about 40 minutes in the cleaner and it looks new.

 

[H4831]

38 spl and 38 spl+P, all samee brass. What you likee, you shootee.

 

[joe-nwt]

+P designates the original factory loading of the round, as H4831 says, the brass is identical. I've never noticed nickel-plated to split any faster than non, but you can wear through it if you reload/tumble it enough times.

 

[Garand]

Back in the days when I shot IPSC revolver, all the brass I used in my S&W M66 was nickle, I felt that it chambered in the cylinder from the speedloader faster and ejected faster. As I was loading +P ammo, my brass reflected that fact.

 

[Radar]

Thanks for the info. Was not sure if the +P was different due to the higher pressure of the +P round or just head stamped to let the shooter know. I have a bucket of +P nickel, one each of regular nickel and brass brass so trying to figure out which to keep. The +P is all only once fired so probably the best choice.

Unless someone out there wants to trade a five gallon pail of assorted 38 brass for a reasonable amount of 357 brass?

 

[Mike Oxlong]

Unless someone out there wants to trade a five gallon pail of assorted 38 brass for a reasonable amount of 357 brass?

I might be amenable to that deal.......