newbie to pistol reloading: questions

stevebc

stevebc

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I've reloaded .308 for a while now, but I'm going to try my hand at 9mm and have a couple of questions:
1) My RCBS 3 die kit (non-carbide, alas) instructions nowhere mention lubing. Obviously it needs lubing for the sizing/decapping stage, does it also need it for the expanding stage?
2) I lubed the fired cases standing upside down, and from capillary action, every case shows 1/8th to 3/16th inch of dampness on the inside from the lube. How much of a problem is this? Do I need to swab this out, or will the bullet cover this when seated and make that job unnecessary?
3) Looking at the priming arm on my single stage press, the small pistol primers have a LOT of room to move in the cup at the top of the arm. This is what I've used for my .308: do I need a "small pistol primer" sized priming arm?

Thanks in advance, and I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as I get further into this.
 
Straight walled cartridges (ala most pistol cartridges) using carbide dies require no lubing....

Don't know what press you are using.. But I know Dillon and Lee have different thing for different size primers.. the primer should fit the cup/insert/bar or whatever being used..

308 is larger primer.. You should have something for small primer... Most presses come with both..
 
See below

stevebc said:
I've reloaded .308 for a while now, but I'm going to try my hand at 9mm and have a couple of questions:
1) My RCBS 3 die kit (non-carbide, alas) instructions nowhere mention lubing. Obviously it needs lubing for the sizing/decapping stage, does it also need it for the expanding stage?

I wouldn't think so, lube is meant to prevent stuck cases...a problem that I wouldn't think could happen in the expander die.

2) I lubed the fired cases standing upside down, and from capillary action, every case shows 1/8th to 3/16th inch of dampness on the inside from the lube. How much of a problem is this? Do I need to swab this out, or will the bullet cover this when seated and make that job unnecessary?

Probably not, try firing the loads with this problem and see if it produces undesirable effects. I seem to remember reading about a guy who lubed cases in a similar fashion and never bothered cleaning the inside afterwards.

3) Looking at the priming arm on my single stage press, the small pistol primers have a LOT of room to move in the cup at the top of the arm. This is what I've used for my .308: do I need a "small pistol primer" sized priming arm?

I think thats because .308 uses a large rifle primer....you should definitely be using a small pistol priming attachment.

Thanks in advance, and I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as I get further into this.
Click to expand...
 
I don't lube , it doesn't need to be done on pistols and I hand prime , it's faster and easier.
Look for a Lee Autoprime hand primer they're $20-25 at a reloading store.

I had/have a Lee progressive and took out the stick that makes it progressive so I can use it like a single stage but not have to switch out dies. I have a seperate turret for each caliber I load.

M.
 
Some good answers here, thanks. I've found the part number for the RCBS small primer plug sleeve and spring (#09553 if anyone's interested) and will be looking for it next time I'm in Kamloops.
IcePick, you don't lube at all? Do you have carbide dies, then?
 
I use a Dillon with carbide 9mm dies, and i lube as well. Makes the action on the progressive press smoother (less powder jumping out as the tool rotates). When i sit down to load a batch, I dump several hundred 9mm brass in a clean cardboard tray (think i used the cardboard tray of an empty two-four of Coors). Lay the brass down on their sides. I use Lyman spray case lube. Spray for 3-5 sec. Let dry for 10 min. Never had any issues with lube causing power to not fire. I'm sure that some lube gets inside the brass.....but like i said, no problems when shooting. I also tumble after loading to remove any lube remaining.
 
Another way to lube 9mm cases is to put about 200 in a round plastic container, like a 2 liter icecream container, smear about a halh inch worm of Lee Lube arouind the side of the container, istall lid and swirl for 30 seconds. 200 nicely lubed cases, with just a tiny amount around the mouth to smooth the way for the expander.
 
If the dies aren't carbide I'd assume they need lube. You can run 9mm brass into a carbide sizing die without lube, but a whole lot less effort if you use lube. My lazy man way is to use the Lee lube in a dollar store spritzer bottle mixed with rubbing alcohol. I can't remember my mix....probably about two teaspoons to about 100 ml of alcohol.(it's been awhile since I mixed it)

I put the brass on wax paper, give a couple or three squirts, roll them around, do it again and let dry. The brass looks like dishes that weren't rinsed good enough and have water spots.

No lube needed for flaring the case mouth.
 
Katana said:
Do yourself a favor Steve and sell those dies and get a set of carbide and save yourself all the trouble.
Click to expand...

I will be looking for the carbide sizer/decapper die only. Apparently they go for around $50.00, and frankly, the thought of lubing then cleaning all those cases... $50.00 seems like a bargain. :D
 
"...sell those dies and get a set of carbide..." Only the sizer is carbide. No need to sell the set.
"...be looking for the carbide sizer..." Should be readily available in your local gun shop. You'll want a taper crimp die too.
"...in need of a Dillon Distributor in Canada..." Epp's is a Dillon retailer.
 
Until you get a carbide sizing die, lube the cases before you resize. No need to lube inside of case mouth to expand or flare the mouth, as the expander die only enters the case mouth a wee, tiny little bit - the least amount you can get away with and still start the bullet without tipping or shaving. And, for 9mm you gotta get a taper crimp die. A roll crimp die can get it done, if all cases are exactly the same length, and if you use a practiced carefully judicious hand, but in a self-loading pistol you do not want the case mouth rolled in. You just want the flare you make in step two, removed. Of course, some pistols slam the bullet nose against the feed ramp, and a taper crimp will allow you to make a more robust cartridge, and allow you to refine the extent of crimp, without the attendant effective shortening of af OAL which happens with a roll crimp.

It is really simpler than it sounds. I have never understood why RCBS sells a "straight -walled" auto pistol cartridge die set without the taper crimp. Cheap, or a chance to sting you with an extra purchase. Not because it is what you need.
 
Have you tried not lubing the cases with the dies you've got ? I've not reloaded 9mm, only 45 ACP but it just seems to me that CLEAN 9mm straight walled brass is unlikely to get stuck anyway and will hardly be a challenge in a SS press. IMHO its one of those "worth a try" scenarios.


Also, you might just want to buy a Lee hand priming tool= fast, easy, cheap. Yes it will work well with Federal primers ;).
 
HKMark23 said:
Have you tried not lubing the cases with the dies you've got ? I've not reloaded 9mm, only 45 ACP but it just seems to me that CLEAN 9mm straight walled brass is unlikely to get stuck anyway and will hardly be a challenge in a SS press. IMHO its one of those "worth a try" scenarios.


Also, you might just want to buy a Lee hand priming tool= fast, easy, cheap. Yes it will work well with Federal primers ;).
Click to expand...

9mm is actually a tapered case...
 
Quigley said:
Not sure where you're going :confused:

9 is not a straight walled case (like .40 or .45). You don't have to lube cases with carbide dies...but it makes the job allot easier. Unlubed cases in non carbide dies is just asking for problems...
Click to expand...

Understood. I just thought it might work without the lube with this particular case. Bottle neck rifle cases surely need lube but I thought that 9mm pistol might be ok dry. Just a thought. If it were me, I'd try it and see.
 
HKMark23 said:
Understood. I just thought it might work without the lube with this particular case. Bottle neck rifle cases surely need lube but I thought that 9mm pistol might be ok dry. Just a thought. If it were me, I'd try it and see.
Click to expand...

9mm takes all the fun out of reloading. Very finicky :(
 
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