6.5x 55 Swede Head Space Gauges *** Updated with Pics

It was a factory loaded box I found, fired it through my previous Swede Sporter. I had reloaded it, Neck Sized only, and trimmed but then sold the rifle. I then pulled the bullets, and dumped the powder, removed the decapping pin, and full length sized it, I wanted to save the primers, cause I am cheap:D So, essentially, it is once fired brass. I had remeasured the cases after Full length sizing them,and they were below the Max length.

The neck does look weird in the pic, it looks square in person.
 
Take a new bullet and try to insert it in the case on the right...the one with the blown primer. If the bullet goes in easily your case length is ok. If not the case is too long for your chamber.
 
Just tested a couple of different things.

Tried a couple of different bullets that I have, all of them go into all three cases easily.

Tried chambering the fired empty cases, from left to right, left goes in easily, middle the bolt is a little hard to close, right one, I could probably get it close if I put a lot of force into it, bolt gets halfway closed and gets tight. I am going to soot it, to see where it is binding, don't know if that will help.
 
Sounds like your sizing efforts werent consistent - perhaps the arm was hitting the table, or the die was loose. Try chambering a few of the unfired rounds - see if they interfere. If you close the bolt with the trigger depressed, you wont #### the bolt, allowing you to feel very precisely if there is interference. (Be careful!)
 
I dont know where you are located but if you could get your hands on an RCBS Precision Mic in 6.5 X 55 I think it would speak volumes as far as what the problem is.
 
I can't imagine how inconsistent sizing efforts would have much to do with how a fired case that exhibited too much pressure now fits in the chamber.

Likewise I think the powder charge is high enough in relation to the different listed minimums that insufficient case expansion can be ruled out. I don't see how insufficient case expansion could cause a progressively worsening pressure problem anyway.

Something caused the pressure to progessively increase with each shot, resulting in an expanded primer pocket and stiff bolt on the third firing. It would seem that the powder charges were consistent going by the rounds that were disassembled so I doubt that is the cause.

7.62mm, are you sure the bore isn't badly plated with copper or something?
 
I don't think your brass is at fault. I've got 100's of bell brass on it's 4th reload for my Ljungman. Never had any issues. If you want a picky 6.5x55 gun to reload for, the Ljungman is it. Give your chamber a good scrub as well as the barrel (don't forget to clean out the gas port for the chamber as well). If you have the means, slug the barrel after it has been cleaned and check. It could be a buildup of copper/powder fouling but I don't think it's the case. I would go with a under charged load not properly sealing itself and fouling the chamber making it progressively harder to remove the cases. Just make sure you start out with a pristine chamber and barrel and clean any lube from your cases. Good luck and keep us posted.

-Jason
 
Just gave it a good treatment of CR 10. I would say it was moderately fouled. Took me about 20 alternating between wet patch and Nylon brush. I don't think that was it.

I am going to load up a few at 34.5 gr, and see how that works. I have some factory ammo that I will run through it first though, and see how that works.

Thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated!
 
Hopefully the cleaning fixed it. Strange that such a low powder load in a medium burn powder would cause such pressure. Couldnt' find any data from Hornady for that bullet so I would use the Hodgdon range but seeing all that pressure in 33.6 grains I would be leery of upping the charge right away .
 
Pathfinder said:
Hopefully the cleaning fixed it. Strange that such a low powder load in a medium burn powder would cause such pressure. Couldnt' find any data from Hornady for that bullet so I would use the Hodgdon range but seeing all that pressure in 33.6 grains I would be leery of upping the charge right away .
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Well......I am at a loss of what else to do......I am pretty sure I have checked everything that I can, I have gone over the press and dies, I believe them to be sound, and the methods used.....what else is there?
 
Thing is - at your mimimum loads, you should be seeing a lot of soot on the cases. I shoot a lot of 6.5, generally at close to minimum load. Regardless of brass, bullet or powder, fairly heavy sooting is present. (even with partially resized cases.)
Your cases are relatively clean, indicating higher pressure. The unusual thing here is that the pressures dont appear to be even from case to case. That is why I suggested the sizing issue. If you didnt manage to completely size a few, they may be too long at the neck - this will definitely cause an overpressure.
You've still got some of the old brass - why dont you check for length? Or check for neck interference? Heck - how about measuring the shot out case?
 
7.62mm said:
Well......I am at a loss of what else to do......I am pretty sure I have checked everything that I can, I have gone over the press and dies, I believe them to be sound, and the methods used.....what else is there?
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Before wasting too much time looking over your equipment and loading procedure I would put more onus on the gun. Fire a few North American Factory cartridges and see if you can reproduce the problem .
 
cosmic said:
Thing is - at your mimimum loads, you should be seeing a lot of soot on the cases. I shoot a lot of 6.5, generally at close to minimum load. Regardless of brass, bullet or powder, fairly heavy sooting is present. (even with partially resized cases.)
Your cases are relatively clean, indicating higher pressure. The unusual thing here is that the pressures dont appear to be even from case to case. That is why I suggested the sizing issue. If you didnt manage to completely size a few, they may be too long at the neck - this will definitely cause an overpressure.
You've still got some of the old brass - why dont you check for length? Or check for neck interference? Heck - how about measuring the shot out case?
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Point taken........ I do appreciate the help.

You obviously know more about this then I do......that is why I am asking the questions here.

Neck interference? Are we talking about the bullet fitting into the fired brass, or how the fired case fits into the chamber....I already did that a few posts back.

Measuring the shot out case....well I did that too....length is good from base to mouth,but the base measurement is out for obvious reasons.....the primer doesn't fit, so obviously the base stretched......what I am trying to figure out is why?

I think at this point, the best thing to do would be just to fire a shot with a factory loaded cartridge.....see what the results are, good or bad, and go from there......unless anyone can come up with a better plan of attack......basically, in the end, I don't want to get hurt, or worse, someone else
 
Neck interference - the necks are pinching the bullet, causing excessive friction and pressure. In my case the necks were so thick that I could not easily chamber a (re)loaded round in my tight chambered Tikka, and a few of my pristine Swedes.
Alternatively, if the case length at the neck is too long, it may still chamber and get pinched at the mouth - note your brass is chamfered at the mouth, so it could potentially get jammed into the "leade" of the rifle without too much notice.
I recognize that these are all "longshot" theories, however, as you appear to be a novice reloader, its best not to leave a stone unturned.
 
Okay....

I can say that all three rounds chambered easily...no resistance.

I was under the impression that is was standard procedure to to lightly chamfer the inside and outside of fired cases,,,,,I have been using the Lee chamfer tool to do so,,,,just a couple of turns each
 
7.62mm said:
I think I am leaning to this as the go to plan of attack. Just a little nervous about doing so is all.
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If you dont' feel good about firing it then dont'...its your face near the receiver and sporterized swedes are a dime a dozen (body parts are not). Nobody on the internet is qualified to tell you that rifle is safe from behind a keyboard...your call.

Anybody in your area you can trust to inspect the rifle ?

You could always strap it to a tire and pull on the trigger with a spring.
 
Pathfinder said:
If you dont' feel good about firing it then dont'...its your face near the receiver and sporterized swedes are a dime a dozen (body parts are not). Nobody on the internet is qualified to tell you that rifle is safe from behind a keyboard...your call.

Anybody in your area you can trust to inspect the rifle ?

You could always strap it to a tire and pull on the trigger with a spring.
Click to expand...

This is not a sportered Swede......its an original 96 full stock.
 
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