to the OP:
i just finished cutting down a wood 870 Express stock to a shorter LOP and it turned out excellent, so if you have a sacrificial wood stock you could try it. this time i used an 8" bench grinder and it went a lot smoother than the last time i tried it on a smaller grinder where i couldnt use the flat sides of the wheel to grind. this was one of the older style (very common) 870 stocks with the solid black rubber, pre-R3/SuperCell pad. here are some tips that worked for me, perhaps someone else has something to add:
1. take some 2" wide painter's masking tape and wrap a strip a couple times around where you want to cut. draw your cutting line on this because its more visible than on the stock. this should also reduce grain tearing out at the edges of the cut.
2. when you finish cutting, 'lap' the base of the stock a bit on some sandpaper taking care not to rock it while youre lapping.
3. screw the buttplate on. the top screw will work fine, the bottom screw will need to be replaced with a short screw or itll go right through the stock. if you make a significant change to the LOP, then even a short screw wont work - youll need to do what i did, which is re-drill a pilot hole for the bottom screw at an
upwards angle. i filled the original hole with epoxy. this solution worked fine and let me use a standard length screw, its angled upwards at roughly the same angle as the bottom of the stock.
4. with the pad screwed on, use a sharp exacto knife to score a line around the hard plastic plate of the pad to mark how much you need to grind off. careful not to damage the stock.
5. using a bench grinder, grind off the pad. be careful, it goes pretty fast on these old pads. if you are making any significant changes to LOP youll be grinding a lot of rubber off, so a dust mask is mandatory and i recommend you wear crappy work clothes since youll be coated in black dust. take your grinder
outside to do it. a wide paintbrush is great for dusting both yourself and the grinder off afterwards.
its best to refit the pad every now and then and doublecheck how much you are removing since once the material is ground off its gone for good
with the fine side of a grinding stone the resulting finish on the rubber recoil pad actually looks pretty factory, not the rough mess i expected it to be. as for the fit, its 95% - i have a couple spots on my pad which are a few thousandths of an inch wider or narrower than the stock but its only visible under very close inspection and its no worse than a factory express. if you wanted a 100% perfect fit, youd probably have to refinish the stock and sand the stock and pad together. mines for a hard use gun and not a safe queen so i could care less.
ill post some pics later.