New Savage 11 - poor start...

There should be steel pillars in that stock. Take a look to confirm. The rear screw may go through a plastic trigger guard, and that will limit the torque, as the plastic can only take so much. If you find the screws protrude too far into the action, they will catch on the bolt and cause problems. Hopefully nothing like that plagues you when you tighten them. On my 300WM, the screws were very tight from the factory. Probably 50-60 inch-lbs to crack them loose.
 
Grizzlypeg,

Yep, it has pillars. I'll tighten them down a bit more. The manual recommends fornt screw tightened first.

Thanks
 
kayaker1 said:
Hi all,



Shot 2, cleaned, repeated 3 times, then cleaned after every 3 shot group using Gunslick 'Copper Klenz'.

Any savage shooters or any of you with similar experiences or advice?
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I believe the problem is you shoot every two rounds and clean the barrel. it is a break in step for new rifle, nothing can help with accuracy and infact it will affect accuracy. when you sight in, don't clean. any lub or oil inside the barrel affect grouping. That is why your grouping open up after several clean because the oil residue.

Trigun
 
kayaker1 said:
Thanks,

Stock/action screws are 'firm' but not very tight (if that helps!)

Rifle was rested on a sand bag (inner tube packed with sand), butt was on a sand bag too.

Ammo change will be my first step.

The foreend is free floated but one side is closer to the stock than the other. I dd notice some stringing in certain groups (others were patterns) but perhaps I need to relieve some plastic from that side of the barrel channel?
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I picked up a savage 111 in 270 for hunting season this year. I had the same trouble, my foreend is also closer on one side. The whole foreend seems very flimsy to me so I moved my front sandbag back closer to the action. That helped some, also hand loads helped. Its still no tack driver but you get what you pay for I guess. I'm thinking a Boyds stock and a trigger upgrade will be in its near future.If that don't work its gone!
 
kentjt said:
I picked up a savage 111 in 270 for hunting season this year. I had the same trouble, my foreend is also closer on one side. The whole foreend seems very flimsy to me so I moved my front sandbag back closer to the action. That helped some, also hand loads helped. Its still no tack driver but you get what you pay for I guess. I'm thinking a Boyds stock and a trigger upgrade will be in its near future.If that don't work its gone!
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Don't wind up like me, changing the stock, trigger, then finally the barrel to get it to shoot decent. This was with a 111 in 300WM. I must have had a lemon, because so many others report their out of the box Savages shoot well. On the other hand, I have a Savage 10MLII with the flexible synthetic stock, and it shoots great despite it. I think the heavy 50 cal barrel might have something to do with it. I've tried different bullets, sabots, powder charges, and you'd never miss a target the size of say an orange, at 100 yards.
 
kentjt said:
I picked up a savage 111 in 270 for hunting season this year. I had the same trouble, my foreend is also closer on one side. The whole foreend seems very flimsy to me so I moved my front sandbag back closer to the action. That helped some, also hand loads helped. Its still no tack driver but you get what you pay for I guess. I'm thinking a Boyds stock and a trigger upgrade will be in its near future.If that don't work its gone!
Click to expand...

I have a Stevens 200 and that is what I had to do as well. When I had the rest closer to the front of the forend I could see the crosshairs start to move when I started to squeeze the trigger. Moving the rest helped a bit but I'm still either going to have to stiffen the forend or replace the stock. That Boyds thumbhole laminated stocks looks good to me. Is there any problem getting Boyds to ship to Canada?
 
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