I have an older 10/22 that I bought for my Archangel stock. I'm having a problem with "stovepipes" or FTE. At first I thought it may be the mag (Shooters ridge 50rd) and then maybe low-power ammo (Winchester) but now I have a couple of BC Steel lips and have been using higher power Federals and while better it's still a problem. This is my first 10/22 purchase so I'm not familiar with these firearms. When I rack the bolt it's very free for the length of a empty 22 then it seems to drag a bit. I took it apart as far as I could (I don't know how to remove the bolt handle to remove the bolt) and cleaned the heck out of it. It seems to drag on the trigger group housing but I'm not sure. Is this bit of drag normal? I know on other semis I've owned the bolt comes back freely against the spring. If you think this is the problem or you have another idea please provide a solution. TC
10/22 Problem
- Thread starter trky chsr
- Start date
take trigger assembley off then to remove the bolt, on the back of the reciever you will see a thick pin, push it out and then pull the bolt back as far as it will go. it will then come out and the charging handle will slide out seperate.
as for the stovepipes changing the extractor to a volquartson edge i belive its called will help alot. although in my case it still did not help with the winchester ammo. i think that stuff is limited to bolt action as even my cooey mod64 wont digest it
as for the stovepipes changing the extractor to a volquartson edge i belive its called will help alot. although in my case it still did not help with the winchester ammo. i think that stuff is limited to bolt action as even my cooey mod64 wont digest it
the bolt does drag on the hammer on all 10/22s.
i would suspect the mags are part of the problem. do you have a factory mag? does it work better?
perhaps replacing the extractor is in order if it is indeed older and seen alot of use.
are the scope rail screws protruding through the reciever and causing the bolt to drag?
try some different ammo, maybe american eagles or something.
good luck.
i would suspect the mags are part of the problem. do you have a factory mag? does it work better?
perhaps replacing the extractor is in order if it is indeed older and seen alot of use.
are the scope rail screws protruding through the reciever and causing the bolt to drag?
try some different ammo, maybe american eagles or something.
good luck.
- Location
- London, Ontario
Give it a good clean and get a new extractor
- Location
- Kitimat BC
COPIED FROM ANOTHER SITE
Stovepiping: the partial ejection of a fired case, usually leaving the open mouth of the case sticking out of the ejection port, looking like a "stove pipe", and thus jamming the action of a semi-automatic firearm.
Stovepiping is caused by the slow or incomplete cycling of the bolt...! !
Causes of the slow or incomplete cycling of the 10/22's bolt:
0 Gummed-up action: the Ruger applied ‘preservative’ was not removed before firing, or oil was used as a lube...! !
0 Rifle was stored vertically after cleaning, allowing oil to run into the action & gum-it-up...! !
0 Unlubed or rough "Bolt Handle Guide Rod" [B-7]...! !
0 Action not lubed with a dry Teflon type spray lube or "CLP"...! !
0 Action not 'broken-in' yet..! ! Normally it takes 1 - 2 bricks [500 rds ea.] of High Velocity ammo to ‘break-in’ a 10/22's action...! !
0 Use of Standard Velocity or Sub Sonic ammo...! !
0 Aftermarket action parts misinstalled...! !
0 Scope base mounting screws rubbing on the top of the bolt.
0 "Hammer Strut Assembly" reassembled with the 'slot' of the "Retaining Washer" facing down; it must face UP...! !
0 Use of a non Ruger magazine...! ! Use a Ruger BX-1...! !
0 Magazine not seating with a 'click'...! !
0 Dirty or untuned magazine(s); see the "Sticky" Post at the top of this Forum for "Magazine Service"...! !
0 Magazine touching the stock in magazine well; can you pass a business card up both sides of the magazine all-the-way to the receiver...? ?
Note: The 10/22 is a "blow back" action, and it does not need an "extractor" to extract and eject fired rounds...! ! The “extractor” is only need to extract unfired rounds...! ! The primary "ejector" is the last 1/4" of the left lip of the BX-1's magazine throat...! !
You will have to see which cause(s) best fit(s) your particular situation...! !
Hope this helps....! !
Stovepiping: the partial ejection of a fired case, usually leaving the open mouth of the case sticking out of the ejection port, looking like a "stove pipe", and thus jamming the action of a semi-automatic firearm.
Stovepiping is caused by the slow or incomplete cycling of the bolt...! !
Causes of the slow or incomplete cycling of the 10/22's bolt:
0 Gummed-up action: the Ruger applied ‘preservative’ was not removed before firing, or oil was used as a lube...! !
0 Rifle was stored vertically after cleaning, allowing oil to run into the action & gum-it-up...! !
0 Unlubed or rough "Bolt Handle Guide Rod" [B-7]...! !
0 Action not lubed with a dry Teflon type spray lube or "CLP"...! !
0 Action not 'broken-in' yet..! ! Normally it takes 1 - 2 bricks [500 rds ea.] of High Velocity ammo to ‘break-in’ a 10/22's action...! !
0 Use of Standard Velocity or Sub Sonic ammo...! !
0 Aftermarket action parts misinstalled...! !
0 Scope base mounting screws rubbing on the top of the bolt.
0 "Hammer Strut Assembly" reassembled with the 'slot' of the "Retaining Washer" facing down; it must face UP...! !
0 Use of a non Ruger magazine...! ! Use a Ruger BX-1...! !
0 Magazine not seating with a 'click'...! !
0 Dirty or untuned magazine(s); see the "Sticky" Post at the top of this Forum for "Magazine Service"...! !
0 Magazine touching the stock in magazine well; can you pass a business card up both sides of the magazine all-the-way to the receiver...? ?
Note: The 10/22 is a "blow back" action, and it does not need an "extractor" to extract and eject fired rounds...! ! The “extractor” is only need to extract unfired rounds...! ! The primary "ejector" is the last 1/4" of the left lip of the BX-1's magazine throat...! !
You will have to see which cause(s) best fit(s) your particular situation...! !
Hope this helps....! !
I disagree, problems with the extractor can cause stovepiping. If the extractor doesn't hook the side of the fired case tightly, how can the case be propelled towards the opening in the receiver consistently?
After around 500 rounds I need to clean my 10/22, including the extractor groove in the bolt.
After around 500 rounds I need to clean my 10/22, including the extractor groove in the bolt.
Thanks for the replies. I was able to remove the bolt and bolt handle and did a thorough cleaning. When I re-assembled I could tell the bolt was moving much more freely. I haven't had a chance to test fire it yet so time will tell. The extractor still looks pretty sharp and the extractor spring seems strong and it seems to be working properly but if I still have problems I'll try replacing that next. It doesn't appear like the scope screws are touching the bolt. TC
+1 on that!, every 10/22 I have owned has been VERY fussy, the biggest solution for majority of the issues was adding a Volq extractor, and many people can vouch for that. Rimfire rounds are very dirty plus us guys have a tendency of putting atleast 500 rounds down range each sitting (because its so cheap, why not?) so due to rimfire rounds being so dirty and the sheer quantity, do yourself a favor and clean it after every outing.
The VQ extractor solved all my problems.
When I first got my 10/22, it stove-piped all the time. Like, 5 or 6 rounds our of 10. Irritating? You bet. I popped in a VQ extractor and the very first shot stove-piped on me.
And then it never did it again. I have shot literally tens of thousands of rounds through my 10/22 since the VQ installation and it never stove-pipes. The only failures I ever get are mis-fires due to dud ammo.
On top of that, it will eat any ammo I feed it. Sure, CB longs won't cycle the action, but they reliably feed and extract when I cycle the bolt manually. I noticed up toward the top of the thread that a few of you dis-like Winchester ammo. I shot a .25" 10 shot group at 25 yards today and a 1.25" 5 shot group at 100. I'd say that 10/22s will shoot Winchester ammo just fine.
When I first got my 10/22, it stove-piped all the time. Like, 5 or 6 rounds our of 10. Irritating? You bet. I popped in a VQ extractor and the very first shot stove-piped on me.
And then it never did it again. I have shot literally tens of thousands of rounds through my 10/22 since the VQ installation and it never stove-pipes. The only failures I ever get are mis-fires due to dud ammo.On top of that, it will eat any ammo I feed it. Sure, CB longs won't cycle the action, but they reliably feed and extract when I cycle the bolt manually. I noticed up toward the top of the thread that a few of you dis-like Winchester ammo. I shot a .25" 10 shot group at 25 yards today and a 1.25" 5 shot group at 100. I'd say that 10/22s will shoot Winchester ammo just fine.
do the VQ extractor and run it dry. I find that Lube in rimfire semi auto gums it up and makes a sluge,Rimfire rounds are dirty, that could be part of the problem ,polish the inturnals and If you must lube ? use a dry lube
think of it like sand ,when dry easy to sweep up , ad some water and not so easy clean up
think of it like sand ,when dry easy to sweep up , ad some water and not so easy clean up
we shoot between 200rds and a 1000rds a day, when we shoot gophers in alberta.
and we havent had many problems except the odd brick of crappy ammo, and like
others have said here when the action gets dirty. most people only take the trigger
group out when they clean, you got to drop the bolt too, scrub it and run it basically
dry. if you use oil it gums up twice as fast. i also break my mag's down once a year
to clean, i just clean the 25rd steel lips the best i can, they do not come apart.
and we havent had many problems except the odd brick of crappy ammo, and like
others have said here when the action gets dirty. most people only take the trigger
group out when they clean, you got to drop the bolt too, scrub it and run it basically
dry. if you use oil it gums up twice as fast. i also break my mag's down once a year
to clean, i just clean the 25rd steel lips the best i can, they do not come apart.
