Cheapest powder for reloading handgun

Cocked&Locked

Cocked&Locked

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OK, times are tight and we want to make our reloading buck go as far as it can. The one variable i've never really looked at is powder cost. What is the cheapest powder to reload auto pistol rounds with? (9mm, 40 and 45) I pretty much stick to bulleye for 38, and unique or 2400 for 357..

I don't care about clean burn, i can clean more often if i need to.

Any comments?:ar15::shotgun:
 
The cost of powder for reloading a pistol is about in line with the cost of keeping in tooth paste!
Save money on everything else you want to, but buy the powder best suited to your pistol shooting and don't worry about the cost.
 
Have personal experience with Bullseye, Red Dot, 700X, Green Dot, 5066 Herco and Unique in the past, basically 12 gauge target load powders, all use very small charges and are very economical especially when purchased in bulk (the trap and skeet guys know a thing or two about loading economically).

I use Bullseye and TiteGroup now in .45 ACP and .38 Super (NRA Action Pistol) for accuracy and economy.
 
H4831 said:
The cost of powder for reloading a pistol is about in line with the cost of keeping in tooth paste!
Save money on everything else you want to, but buy the powder best suited to your pistol shooting and don't worry about the cost.
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Agreed. Halving or doubling the cost of your powder only changes the cost of 1000 by $15-30. Find one you like, and ignore the cost.
 
Cocked&Locked said:
What is the cheapest powder to reload auto pistol rounds with? (9mm, 40 and 45)
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Titegroup is cheap per pound ( http://www.higginsonpowders.com/images/09hp1.pdf ), and you need very little of it ( http://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Hodgdon Basic Manual.pdf#page=26 ). Some powders need less (but aren't universal across the calibers you mentioned), none cost less (as far as I know).

You can do up a matrix, figuring out your cost-per-load, as people bring suggestions forward, then pick the cheapest one. As you load on a progressive, I recommend a ball or modified ball (yes, the LNL AP measure will work pretty well with flake and stick, but ball flows that much better).

As for the "it's cheap, don't worry" crowd: a handful of penny decisions turn into dollars, and C&L's time in figuring out a cheap powder will pay off over time.
 
I am pretty sure bullseye is one of the cheapest as it takes some of the smallest powder charges per round. So if you are looking at it on a per round basis I vote bullseye. I will say though I never had much luck with bullseye in 9mm. Had alot of keyholing and took alot of work to get a decent load. I switched to power pistol for 9mm but still use bullseye in my .45 loads.
 
mlehtovaara said:
I am pretty sure bullseye is one of the cheapest as it takes some of the smallest powder charges per round.
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125gr 9mm bullet, bullseye 4.4 gr, titegroup 4.4 gr.

cost: bullseye $22.5/lb, titegroup $21.5/lb.

we can go back-and-forth on loads (these are published max) and costs (first is wholesale sports 8-lb container, second is higginson 4-lb bag), but it's a win for titegroup.
 
I used red dot for 9mm, .40 and .45 for years. When promo was introduced I switched to it. It is the same as red dot only without the dots. At $110 per 8lb keg it is very economical.
 
I appriciate all the feedback. I don't think i've ever tried tite-group, but i do use bullseye alot. Possibly i'll look at the bullseye in 45 since i have it anyways and try the titegroup in 9 and 40.

I prefer heavy bullets in 45, but personally for 9 i like 115, and for 40 as light as i can find, though i will shoot what ever is cheap and will give the accuracy i need. Since most of this is IDPA ammo, i'm happy if it will shoot in 4" at 25 yards, and i've never had any load in any gun except my Hi power that wouldn't do better then that. (well, and some odd ball revolver experiances, but i've found semi's very tolerant of anything they can feed)
 
H4831 said:
The cost of powder for reloading a pistol is about in line with the cost of keeping in tooth paste!
Save money on everything else you want to, but buy the powder best suited to your pistol shooting and don't worry about the cost.
Click to expand...


That is easily the best advice so far. the cost per round that you'll save on powder will be too small to matter.

If you want to save money on reloading look at buying cast bullets in bulk. OMA Products in BC advertises discounts for orders of 5000 or more bullets - go in with a group friends and buy in bulk.
 
Fine one that works for you. The price differences on good powders are negligible. I like W231 in my 9mm's and 40's. I get good accuracy, and being a Ball powder it meters well, even in my cheap Lee powder measure.
 
Of the various powers you mentioned using, Unique is as close to a universal powder as yu can find. It works well for mild, medium and stiff loads. With it you can load any caliber to IDPA levels.

If your powder thrower works well with flake powders (some don't) it is a good choice.

If you really want to save money, buy a jug, not a pound.
 
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Ganderite said:
Of the various powers yu mentioned using, unique is as close to a universal powder as yu can find. It works well for mild, medium and stiff loads. With it you can load any powder to IDPA levels.

If your powder thrower works well with flake powders (some don't) it is a good choice.

If you really want to save money, buy a jug, not a pound.
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Couldn`t have said it better myself.
 
jethunter said:
That is easily the best advice so far. the cost per round that you'll save on powder will be too small to matter.

If you want to save money on reloading look at buying cast bullets in bulk. OMA Products in BC advertises discounts for orders of 5000 or more bullets - go in with a group friends and buy in bulk.
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The way to really save money if you have the time and shoot a lot is to cast your own bullets out of scrap lead. it is a lot of fun and once you have the bullet making equipment you are dependant on no-one for bullets and save a lot of money doing it. Coupled with bulk purchase of powder and primers brings the cost-per-round of ammo way down,which can be very important if one is shooting 35,000+ rounds of .45/.38 super a year in practice and competition.

I found it extremely satisfying to compete and do well using bullets I had cast myself, in .45 ACP, .44 Special, .44 Mag, .44-40, .38 Super in pistol/revolver and .44-40 and 45-70 in rifle.

Cheers
 
Opcx6 said:
The way to really save money if you have the time and shoot a lot is to cast your own bullets out of scrap lead. it is a lot of fun and once you have the bullet making equipment you are dependant on no-one for bullets and save a lot of money doing it. Coupled with bulk purchase of powder and primers brings the cost-per-round of ammo way down,which can be very important if one is shooting 35,000+ rounds of .45/.38 super a year in practice and competition.
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:agree:
Heads or projectiles are the single most expensive reloading component.
Get into casting. Only one downside here in Vancouver....wheel weights are so hard to find. The big recyclers don't even want to discuss selling 200 lbs, 20 tons yes. Another concern for casters is safety and environmental. You need to follow all the rules, especially the rule that common sense is uncommon. Read up on castboolits.com

Having said that, Titegroup is probably the most inexpensive handgun powder for the calibers the OP mentioned, on per shot basis. It will not give the highest velocities but is one of the most accurate due to consistent velocities.
 
Accurate powders are a few dollars cheaper per lb from what I've seen.
Having said that I would agree that cast bullets are the area you should focus on.
 
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