S&W 586 no dash: Question for revolver experts out there

[easyrider604]

My 586's cylinder is stuck.....like it doesn't want to open (to load ammo).

Everything else functions properly but the cylinder release. It hasn't been returned to S&W for the no dash and dash one factory mods.

From what I can see, the cylinder pin at the rear, in the center of the extractor star, releases. But the front pin is not pushed out enough when I push forward on the cylinder latch/release. So the extractor rod is still locked in front, while the rear of the cylinder can move.

The cylinder has always been a little reluctant to open, requiring a little pressure to open, but now, no reasonable amount of pressure can get the front to budge. Good thing this didn't happen at the range with live ammo.

Is this an easy fix?

 

[hs]

It sounds like the ejector rod has come undone. Try turning the rod in.

 

[sarge]

x 2 and the cylinder might need shimming

 

[gnmontey]

turning the rod in.

What does "turning the rod in" mean?

Explain, Please

I have a S&W revolver as well.

 

[easyrider604]

How do I turn the ejector rod in? The cylinder is stuck closed.

 

[Rod]

An easy way to release the ejector rod from the front locking bolt, if you're not able to turn the ejector rod anti-clockwise to tighten it, is to use a very small screwdriver or tip of a knife blade and carefully stick it between the tip of the ejector rod and the front locking bolt and press the locking bolt forward while you're pressing the thumbpiece forward with your other hand. Slip your finger around and press outward on the cylinder. It will open .

Tighten the ejector rod using a piece of thick leather and grips or lock-tight or even women's nail polish on the threads . . . And remember; S&W, on their earlier revolvers, stamped their model number with dash one to indicate the engineering upgrade to left hand threads on the ejector rod. (around 1961) . so most S&W revolvers made after that date should have left hand threads .

One other thing, as you know, the L-frame 586 no dash and dash one were recalled by S&W for upgrades as the cylinders were binding. If on the inside of the shroud there's no "M" stamped there, it has not had the upgrades .

 

[tjhaile]

What does "turning the rod in" mean?

Explain, Please

I have a S&W revolver as well.

Sometimes, the ejector rod can unscrew itself partially from the rest of the cylinder assembly. The fix is to screw it back in so that it doesn't interfere with the opening and closing of the cylinder.

 

[easyrider604]

OK I was able to open the cylinder using Rod's procedure. Worked like a charm.

Next I tightened the ejector rod (left hand thread yes) and tried to close and open the cylinder.

I then opened and closed the cylinder several times, with the cylinder rotating as I closed it. A different chamber was aligned with the barrel each time, and there were positions when the cylinder was tight, requiring higher than normal force to open. On my other L frames, there was never an issue with opening the cylinder (all of my 686's is and were -3s)

I do not want to loc-tite the threads until the cylinder releases uniformly easy and smoothly regardless of which chamber is aligned with the barrel.

What is wrong?

One other thing, as you know, the L-frame 586 no dash and dash one were recalled by S&W for upgrades as the cylinders were binding. If on the inside of the shroud there's no "M" stamped there, it has not had the upgrades .

I read the recall and the cylinder binding was caused by shooting a certain brand and loading of .357 ammo. The factory replaced the firing pin bushing on the breech face. I wonder if this problem I'm experiencing is connected to the recall.

 

[fuzz]

Wrote a whole damn response, keyboard buggard the whole thing up.
Clean the back of the cyl. and star WELL. Check for burrs. Burrs that bind rotation are the ones that occur with shooting frequency/volume. they will form on the back of the ejector star at the point where the hand (that comes out of the frame to turn the cyl.) touches the ejector star lugs. To see this, check out the back of the cyl. window for shiny spots/rubbing. Do NOT file away before you know the ejector star is able to get completely "Home".

 

[Rod]

I then opened and closed the cylinder several times, with the cylinder rotating as I closed it. A different chamber was aligned with the barrel each time, and there were positions when the cylinder was tight, requiring higher than normal force to open.

Sometimes, too much end play can cause a cylinder to be tight to open or will bind on double action. End play is corrected with one thou. stainless washers from Brownells (approx. $19 del.).

As a process of elimintation, I would measure the barrel to cylinder gap with each cylinder. I've saw S&W's before where the cylinder face was not machined correctly, causing an uneven B/C gap. Just use a feeler gauge for measuring. The B/C gap should be parrell both ways with a gap between 4 thou. to 10 thou.