Need Help With Cleaning Heavy Leading!!!!

mlehtovaara

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So I just started reloading my .44 Magnum and am getting some leading not terrible but still hard to clean. It is worse just beyond the forcing cone and I am having some difficulty getting it real clean. There is still a few spots of lead visible. I am using Hoppes 9 and letting it sit about 10 minutes but patches just arent cutting it. So should I try a different solvent? If so which one? And should I try copper brushes, or the copper cleaning pads.
Thanks
Mark
 
Lewis lead remover..Easy to find...Easy to use..lasts forever I have 2 one 44 one 45 NEVER needed anything else...Works easy and great, also very cheap to buy..Your local gun store will have one....Their are also made by other companys....Have Fun
 
I have recently started using copper scrubber pad fibres (pure copper) and they work like a hot damn.

Just use a tight fitting jag and wrap a copper strand around the patch a few times. You can feel it catching on the lead; when it feels smooth it means the lead is all (mostly) gone. I am having the same issue with my 44.

FYI, I tried some max loads with H110 and some good hard cast and there was absolutely NO leading! I have a bunch of not so great quality cast that I will try with those heavy loads and see what happens, just out of curiosity.

One thing that might be a contributor to this problem is I measured my cylinder mouths and they appear to be .428. I believe this may be contributing to gas cutting of the cast bullets with soft or moderate loads.

Out of curiosity, what is the gun we are talking about (mine is a 629)?
 
Hoppes doesn't' actually dissolve lead. It sort of gets under it and loosens it.

I have used MPro-7, but it has to soak for a long time. Mechanical methods are the quickest. IE, Lewis lead remover.

Or you could just get some brass wool or one of those brass pot scrubbers, fasten it to a stick and run it up and down the bore and it will get the lead out.
 
Buy some copper scouring pads (Chore Girl etc), open them up and cut a piece off that you can wrap around a bore brush a couple of times. This stuff cuts through the lead quickly, but is too soft to scratch your bore or chambers. Use it dry with no solvent or oil. After the lead has been removed, finish up with some Hoppes #9 to get rid of any carbon deposits as you would normally.

Edited to add . . .
OOPs missed Pudelpointer's post.
 
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Where can i get the coper pads? I went and looked at walmart and canadain tire today and could only find stainless steel, or soap pads. I ended up leaving with the green scouring pads and just cutting them into squares and pushing em through and it worked but took awhile. I will see if I can find the lewis lead remover, but if I can find the brass/copper pads Ill try that first.
Thanks
 
A quote, "Hoppes doesn't' actually dissolve lead."

Don't bet on that one! I know a horror story about it. A man I knew very well bought a German Drilling in the 1950s, for BIG bucks. He had a PHD degree, but obviously not in metallurgy.
Anyway, he wasn't going to use the gun, a 30-06 under 12 gauges, for a few months, so he stored it away, after soaking it down with Hoppe's #9.
When he next looked at his unfired gun, the barrels were coming apart! Back at the factory in Germany they wanted more big bucks, to resolder it back together again.
They said the Hoppe's #9 had disolved the lead in the original solder.
 
You should be able to find copper pads at Canadian Tire and most grocery stores. I found them at Save-on-Foods. They were in a different area then the green pot scrubbers though..... strange.
 
Were do you get this...
lewis lead remover in the lowermainland of B.C. if not is the a dealer in canada that would have it?
 
Where can i get the coper pads? I went and looked at walmart and canadain tire today and could only find stainless steel, or soap pads. I ended up leaving with the green scouring pads and just cutting them into squares and pushing em through and it worked but took awhile. I will see if I can find the lewis lead remover, but if I can find the brass/copper pads Ill try that first.
Thanks

If those were Scotchbrite pads I wouldn't use them anymore, they'll cut steel.

Just fire one or two jacketed bullets at the end of your shooting session. No more lead. Easy.
 
+1 on the pieces of copper scouring pads. It is amazing how well it works. Follow up with JB Bore Cleaner as a final polish to take out anything that's left.

If you want to try the Lewis Lead Remover, they are sold by Brownells.
 
I have loaded soem medium jacked bullets in all pistol calibers and fire 3 aftre about every third session with cast bullets. This seems to blow the lead out (or iron it so flat i can't see it.)
 
Where can i get the coper pads? I went and looked at walmart and canadain tire today and could only find stainless steel, or soap pads. I ended up leaving with the green scouring pads and just cutting them into squares and pushing em through and it worked but took awhile. I will see if I can find the lewis lead remover, but if I can find the brass/copper pads Ill try that first.
Thanks

Dollar store.DAN>>>:D
 
I have loaded soem medium jacked bullets in all pistol calibers and fire 3 aftre about every third session with cast bullets. This seems to blow the lead out (or iron it so flat i can't see it.)

I was convinced that shooting jacketed bullets after shooting cast was the cure to lead fouling in handguns and rifles until last year. I ran some hard cast 195 gr bullets a little too quick (1800 fps) down the bore of my 1:8 .308 and I think the bullet pushed through the rifling like a piece of cheese running across a grater. The same bullet does well in our 1:10 and 1;12 .30/06 barrels at 1800, but the fast twist Krieger fouled badly. I wasn't concerned, I fired a few rounds of jacketed ammo to scrub the lead out, then proceded to fire a group with some of my carefully crafted 220 gr MKs in Lapua brass. They shot into a foot! This is quite disturbing for a load that had previouslly shot into the .1"s, and could break clay birds laying on the back stop on demand from a half mile. Now I was worried! But at first I assumed I had a scope problem, it hadn't even occurred to me that the barrel was fouled after shooting the jacketed bullets through it. I checked all the mounting screws and the tracking of my S&B against the bore sighter and it seemed OK. I swapped scopes and shot again, and again the group was out to lunch. Then slowly the realization that I had a fouled barrel dawned on me. Sometimes I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree.

Now I have visions of a smooth bore barrel, the grooves filled to the top with lead, protected by a layer of copper, suitable only as a tomato stake! Tomato stakes aren't big sellers in Chruchill!! I dug out my old Outers electric bore cleaner and tried the Lead Out solution, but I couldn't get a ground anywhere on the GunKoted barrel, and the wire lead wasn't long enough to reach the receiver. As much as I dislike scrubbing an expensive match barrel, even with a bore guide and a coated rod, thats what I did, with Kroil and JB Bore Cleaner. I pushed a patch wet with Kroil through the bore, let it sit for an hour to give it time to get under the fouling, then would give the barrel a scrub with the JB. I'd then clean out the JB with Hoppes soaked patch, then patch the barrel dry and examine the patch for tell-tale grey. A few days later I had the opportunity to shoot again and saw that the accuracy had returned. I must say I gave a sigh of relief.

A couple of months ago I received Veral Smith's book "Jacketed Bullet Performance with Cast Bullets". Veral is the fellow behind LBT (Lead Bullet Technologies). When I saw his recommendation for the copper scouring pad wrapped around a bore brush, used dry, I grabbed my .44 Vaquero that I could clearly see the fouling in, and tried it. Veral Smith was right, lead fouling is easier to remove than copper fouling . . . when you go about it the right way. Now ya tell me!

I discovered my .308 would shoot the cast bullets accurately and without significant fouling when I dropped the velocity down to 1200 fps, but there seems little point as I have a broader range of useful velocities and comparable accuracy with my slower twist .30/06s.
 
When using the copper scouring pad material, I juice it up with "Fluid Film"......seems to help loosen the lead, and helps the pad material carry it......





Or it might all be in my head.......
 
A quote, "Hoppes doesn't' actually dissolve lead."

Don't bet on that one! I know a horror story about it. A man I knew very well bought a German Drilling in the 1950s, for BIG bucks. He had a PHD degree, but obviously not in metallurgy.
Anyway, he wasn't going to use the gun, a 30-06 under 12 gauges, for a few months, so he stored it away, after soaking it down with Hoppe's #9.
When he next looked at his unfired gun, the barrels were coming apart! Back at the factory in Germany they wanted more big bucks, to resolder it back together again.
They said the Hoppe's #9 had disolved the lead in the original solder.

It probably dissolved other components within the solder, or the bond between the solder and the steel, rather than the lead itself. A subtle but important distinction. Many solders are primary tin, since they are much stronger, and now, solder for copper water pipes contain zero lead.

Also, the "modern" version of Hoppes #9 is also much different than the old version. They had to take out all the "nasty" chlorinated solvents in the early 90's, replacing them with environmentally friendly (read "less effective") alternatives.
 
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