Hunting with M-14 ??

Norton said:
When taking your True/chu wood/poly M14 on a walk about hunting, think about all those boys that humped those types of heavy rifles for months on end in WW11 and later conflicts. Feel proud to carry that weight and experience a day hunting with a rifle that helped earn our freedom to own one now.
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Well said
:agree:
 
So out of curiousity I wieghed 1 of the bolt guns that go on our moose trips.
Winchester model70 classic sporter with Boss, 26inch barrel, walnut stock, leopold rings n bases and a bushnell 4200 2.5-10x42
It weighs only 1lb 9ounces less than my fiberglass stocked, arms 18 and bushnell 3200 3-98x40, on my 18.5" barreled norc.
I do a lot of walking when I hunt and have had no issues. I also have a pelvis/spinal injury that causes weakness and chronic pain. Despite this, I look forward to packin my M14 every season ;)
 
Thats good to hear, the M-14 seems like it is used by quite a few guys for deer hunting. Does anyone use it for Moose hunting. I know the newest generation of hunters seem to think that a .308 is a little light for Moose, but 20 or 30 years ago it was one of the most popular cartridge for Moose, so unless a Moose has gotten harder to kill, it should still work. Heck a .270 used to be used alot also on Moose.
 
blueflash said:
Thats good to hear, the M-14 seems like it is used by quite a few guys for deer hunting. Does anyone use it for Moose hunting. I know the newest generation of hunters seem to think that a .308 is a little light for Moose, but 20 or 30 years ago it was one of the most popular cartridge for Moose, so unless a Moose has gotten harder to kill, it should still work. Heck a .270 used to be used alot also on Moose.
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it's not the cartridge as much as the BULLET WEIGHT that causes the problems- the m14 won't take a 180 , which is a very popular moose load- it. will, however, take a 165, and with a PREMIUM bullet and PROPER PLACEMENTdo the job just fine-
 
I took a decent moose a few years back with my M-14.

I was shooting win silver tips 180's on that trip. The bull went up on his hind legs and just dropped to the ground where he was standing. Distance was >100yds, bullet busted a rib on the way in and was recovered on the other side just under the skin.
 
I wouldn't be afraid to fire a couple of 180 grainers out of my m14, just not a steady diet of them. I've seen guys shoot quite a few out of their m14's before knowing it was not recommended. They grouped quite well at 100 yards.
 
t-star said:
it's not the cartridge as much as the BULLET WEIGHT that causes the problems- the m14 won't take a 180 , which is a very popular moose load- it. will, however, take a 165, and with a PREMIUM bullet and PROPER PLACEMENTdo the job just fine-
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If you are really really worried, slap an adjustable gas valve on that sucker and shoot away. the lowered gas levels will save your op-rod.
 
I've been out once with my M14 for moose, but got skunked that year (had to be that year out of the last twenty that I didn't see anything!:rolleyes:). This year I plan on making my M14 my full time hunting rifle, as now I'm bound and determined to fill the freezer with it!
 
I do most of the dogging a couple of times I have taken my M-14 and yes it is heavy. I found it was more the length and the 20 round mag sticking out that it would catch on every branch causing you to slow your progress, sitting on a stand I think it is a great gun for that.
 
got my first coyote with my M14 (varmint control, i know its overkill) I'm a big guy (6'2" 205lbs) so the weight doesn't bother me at all, can be a lil akward at times getting into some tight places though.
 
last season i used for hunting my norinco m14s with sadlak mount and bushnell elite 3200 3-9x40. the gun is heavy but will kill a moose anytime !
 
Jacks_username said:
If you are really really worried, slap an adjustable gas valve on that sucker and shoot away. the lowered gas levels will save your op-rod.
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Or.... Get a springfield gas cylinder from brownells ( you'll need the plug too)
Or get a usgi gas cylinder and plug. Then get the SADLAK NM Grooved piston , specifically designed for 180 gr ... And up.

Sadlak pistons may or may not function in most norc/poly gas cylinders as the cylinder diameters on most chinese cylinders and pistons are "generously" over sized compared to GI.
 
I'm going to use my M14 for Spring bear and my 858 for a Fall deer. I've got a bushnell banner 3x9-40 scope attached to a 3 point mount and an NcStar bipod screwed into the chu wood stock. I plan on sighting that sucker in when the scope gets back from Bushnell lol. If it doesn't get back in time then it's going to have to be a jungle carbine or 858 for the bear.
 
You'd think you could just modify a spare norinco piston with a bleed hole, and swap it in when you want to shoot 180's. That would take a lot of careful experimentation though.
 
Grizzlypeg said:
You'd think you could just modify a spare norinco piston with a bleed hole, and swap it in when you want to shoot 180's. That would take a lot of careful experimentation though.
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Drill a 1/32" hole out through the end of your gas nut and you're done. Seriously.

I tried 1/16" but cycling failed about a third of the time, even with maximum 180gr loads. With 1/32" my rifle cycles 100% with 180's, but only just. No slamming or anything - I'm sure there is less gas going in the gas system with a 1/32" hole in the gas plug AND full powered 180gr loads than with a standard gas plug and 147gr FMJ ammo.

The only caveat is that, with the hole, you can likely forget shooting lighter bullets semi-auto.
 
Northman999 said:
Drill a 1/32" hole out through the end of your gas nut and you're done.

I tried 1/16" but cycling failed about a third of the time, even with max 308 win loads. With 1/32" my rifle cycles 100% with 180's, but only just. No slamming or anything - I'm sure there is less gas going in the gas system with a 1/32" hole in the gas plug AND full powered 180gr loads than with a standard gas plug and 147gr FMJ ammo.

The only caveat is that, with the hole, you can likely forget shooting lighter bullets reliably.
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Cool. How about drilling it 1/32 all the way through, then boring the exterior larger, threading it, and putting in a set screw for when you want to return it to normal.
 
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