Suggestions on customizing my old Win 70

bill c68

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 99.4%
163   1   1
I have a 1972 Winchester Model 70, 30-06 it was my grandfather's so selling it is not an option, modifying it any way I see fit is ok. I have removed the sights and filled the holes and replaced the stock with a synthetic.

I am thinking I would like to replace the trigger and maybe replace the stock again with something a little ###ier. It will always be a hunting rifle but I would like to make it as accurate as possible and a damn fine looking rifle. Then maybe some better rings and glass. It currently sports a 3200 3-9X40, I am thinking about selling another rifle for financial reasons so I may scavenge the 4200 2.5-10X40 from it.

Any ideas? post pics too.
 
I have a 1972 Winchester Model 70, 30-06 it was my grandfather's so selling it is not an option, modifying it any way I see fit is ok. I have removed the sights and filled the holes and replaced the stock with a synthetic.

I am thinking I would like to replace the trigger and maybe replace the stock again with something a little ###ier. It will always be a hunting rifle but I would like to make it as accurate as possible and a damn fine looking rifle. Then maybe some better rings and glass. It currently sports a 3200 3-9X40, I am thinking about selling another rifle for financial reasons so I may scavenge the 4200 2.5-10X40 from it.

Any ideas? post pics too.

I would probably get a nice featherweight stock, buy some Talley Lightweight one piece rings, have the trigger done buy a Gunsmith (or buy a drop in Rifle Basix) and maybe have the barrel set back an rechambered. Then load a good quality 165-168gr bullet ahead of 58gr of H4350 and go hunting. If you want to spend a little bit, have the action blueprinted and the barrel setback and rechambered.
 
I have a 1972 Winchester Model 70, 30-06 it was my grandfather's so selling it is not an option, modifying it any way I see fit is ok. I have removed the sights and filled the holes and replaced the stock with a synthetic.

I am thinking I would like to replace the trigger and maybe replace the stock again with something a little ###ier. It will always be a hunting rifle but I would like to make it as accurate as possible and a damn fine looking rifle. Then maybe some better rings and glass. It currently sports a 3200 3-9X40, I am thinking about selling another rifle for financial reasons so I may scavenge the 4200 2.5-10X40 from it.

Any ideas? post pics too.

I'd get a McMillan stock. I like their camouflage HTG stock and they have quite a variety for a lot of different rifles. Here's their website if you want to browse:
http ://www.mcmfamily.com
 
I would probably get a nice featherweight stock, buy some Talley Lightweight one piece rings, have the trigger done buy a Gunsmith (or buy a drop in Rifle Basix) and maybe have the barrel set back an rechambered. Then load a good quality 165-168gr bullet ahead of 58gr of H4350 and go hunting. If you want to spend a little bit, have the action blueprinted and the barrel setback and rechambered.

I would never let a PEI gunsmith touch one of my rifles again.
I have set the trigger it is pretty good but not nearly as smooth as my factory Tikka. Why do I set the bbl back and rechamber? I have also bedded the rifle but am not happy with the stock itself. I will check out McMillan.

Where can I find Talley bases and rings? and what other brands should I look at? Here on PEI, our choices are Tasco and Weaver, it currently sports weaver.
 
On the outside, I'd leave it all original and find a good older period scope for it like a purple Leupold complete with Weaver mounts.

On the inside, I'd have it accurized with bedding, true up the action, trigger, seal the stock inside and out and a new recoil pad.

I got a gun from my grandfather and changed it around. 20yrs later, I really wish I would have left it as is.


.
 
If it were my grandfather's I'd leave it alone but it's not so............

Blueprint action.
Install match grade barrel, 1-10 twist.
Do or change trigger.
Bed into stock of your choice.
Install quality scope and rings/mounts.
Remember your grampa when you use it.
 
I would never let a PEI gunsmith touch one of my rifles again....

I never heard of ANY gunsmiths on PEI, some call themselves such though. Is there any on PEI?

Leave it, or all you'll have is a piece of your Grandfathers rifle.
 
Where can I find Talley bases and rings? and what other brands should I look at? Here on PEI, our choices are Tasco and Weaver, it currently sports weaver.

You are using a computer to access the internet to post here. Surf the net and you will find lots of vendors that sell virtually everything you could want or need to "customize" your rifle. Wholesale Sports, LeBarons, Cabelas, Ellwood Epps, plus any of the sponsors listed at the top of this page are all good starting places. Chances are pretty good you will save money buying mail order as well.

As for brands, Burris and Leupold both offer great rings at reasonable prices and availability is usually very good. I prefer steel rings and bases but that is just my preference. My Tikka wore a Ken Farrel steel picatinny rail with Burris Signature Zee rings. A great combination and rock solid. I really like the Ken Farrel stuff. Very well made and he ships to Canada.

FWIW, the Tikka, rings, base, scope and ammunition ALL were courtesy of mailorder.
 
There should be more to your decision to customize a rifle than your simply wanting a custom rifle. What is it about the M-70 that A) you don't like and B) would suit you better? Have a vision of what you want your rifle to be, and a vision of what it will be used for, before you start adding bells and whistles, that in the end might serve no purpose, or worse, make the rifle unusable.

You mentioned the trigger, but as said, a M-70 trigger is pretty easy to set up, and if you can adjust it to 3 pounds with no creep or over-travel, there is little to complain about. If you can't adjust the creep out of it, then replace it with a Timney.

You mention that you replaced the stock with a synthetic, you didn't say what type. If the new stock fits you all is well, but if it was me, I would have a fiberglass (not plastic) stock made up for my length of pull. The original stock refinished, bedded and cross bolted, cut to fit you, with a quality recoil pad installed could well be a better stock than a cheap synthetic. Regardless of the quality of the replacement stock, it should be bedded to the action. There is no such thing as a "drop in" even though they are often advertised that way. A good stock needs a high quality recoil pad that matches the stock and your tastes. If you want ###y, a high quality piece of walnut is the answer, but the cost of turning a walnut blank into a work of art is not for the faint of heart. I would change the factory slotted action screws to hex or Torx head, with pillars to prevent compressing the stock material. The front sling swivel on the radius of the stock keeps the swivel stud out of the way, and prevents recoil induced cut hands.

To my way of thinking a hunting rifle without a good set of irons is incomplete. Not everyone agrees however, nor does everyone see the advantage of a ghost ring and post arrangement. But if you do, you realize that the scope must be mounted in good quality QD rings, and lately there has been a pic on CGN of a neat ghost ring that is built into a scope base, naturally the rings must be QD. If the rifle is equipped with QD rings, consider having a stripper notch machined into the receiver. This is one of the features available on Brokman's custom M-70s, and a visit to his website might give you some additional ideas.

The scope should be chosen with the end use in mind. Big game is not hard to see at normal hunting ranges, so the choice of a 10X scope would suggest that the rifle will have uses beyond that of a big game rifle. I don't like the look of a physically big scopes on hunting rifles, particularly those with large objectives. The big scope is bulky and more prone to damage than a smaller scope, and the smaller scope can be mounted closer to the bore if the height of the comb allows for a low mounted scope. I prefer Leupold to all others, because they're the only ones that to my knowledge have a Canadian warranty center. Korth Agencies provide fast turn around times, and can do things like change reticles and turrets.

As tempting as a new barrel might be, I would only consider it if the rifle's accuracy was below par. In the field few can shoot up to a 2 MOA rifle, so spending money on a half minute barrel might not be the best use of your money. If you are considering a new barrel, my choice would either be from Ron Smith (Canadian) or Kreiger as I believe there are advantages to cut rifled barrels. Pay attention to the contour and length of the new barrel. Too heavy a contour will spoil the balance of the rifle, but the contour must be chosen with the finished length in mind.

No custom rifle is complete without refinishing. I would opt for a bake on finish in a color that suits your tastes. These coatings provide much better protection from the elements than blueing, and look as nice. They are resilient to rough handling, bug dope, and cleaning chemicals.
 
As far as leaving it as is.... too late, but that's fine, If I left it as is, I would have never used it, I never liked it and it kicked the crap out of me. My grandfather, all 5'3" of him, is a tough old man (still is, will be 94 this year, in a home but still holding on)

This will likely be a multi-year project, rings one year, scope another etc etc. The main reason I am making this my own is, the fact that I have spent myself into a huge hole and will be selling all of my toys that I do not need. I cannot sell my inherited toys. I will also be modernizing a Parker Hale-Lee Enfield with newer scope and a refinish.
 
Back
Top Bottom