My First and ONLY Rifle -- Pictures Page 1/20/25 -- Range Review Page 28 --

Face it: your scope and mount don't even exist, and that rifle belongs to someone else.

Haha your so mean :D

Ughhh I hate counting down the days until I should have my rifle all built and ready to go... and then booom, something else ruins it! Me and TR planned to go to BRRC on Thursday, sight in and all that great stuff, then hit up Silverdale on Saturday for the whole day (max 200 yrds)... but NOOOOO something else has to go wrong :D

By the way, I have a bad feeling my bipod is lost forever in the mail... might have to look into a new bipod -.- Good thing I had insurance for it :p Could prove as a good excuse to get an Atlas? :D

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Wow. I dont even have that many photos of my dog. Your version of "Man's Best Friend".

Can you give more details please. lol

What do you want to know?

Rifle Update:

Spoke with Steyr, he said just the other day they put 200-300 rounds through an SSG 08 with zero problems (the Cheek Piece moving forward -- my problem). I have since tightened the Cheek Piece down to 65 inch pounds of torque and will see if I still have problems. If I still have problems they have said give them a call back and they will replace the entire stock free of charge. Now that is unquestionable service!

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
65 inch pounds? Isn't that about the same torque that's on an action screw? Seems like a lot just for a cheekpiece... :confused:

Man, I hope you get your stuff together, cuz you don't have much to show for this piece of kit after almost TWENTY PAGES!!!
 
65 inch pounds? Isn't that about the same torque that's on an action screw? Seems like a lot just for a cheekpiece... :confused:

Man, I hope you get your stuff together, cuz you don't have much to show for this piece of kit after almost TWENTY PAGES!!!

Well if that doesn't work, it is for sure "broken" :p

I know I'm a sad panda.

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
nice looking rig

That is an awsome first rifle

Thanks guys.


Mount Update:
Richard sent me out a mount today, will have it by next week, is only temperary but at this point I just want to get out and shoot. Sent mine back today, only needs about three thousands of an inch shaved off to make it clear the bottom of the mount (schmidt 3-12 =/= premier 3-15), about 12 pieces of electrical tape to fit one piece of printer paper between the turret housing and the bottom of the alphamount.

Bipod Update:
Well it looks like I will be purchasing a new bipod in the near term... either a Harris or a Atlas... this being yet to be determined...
Why you ask? Well I just got a note from Canada Post stating I will be waiting between 30 and 90 days just to find out what happened to my bipod and as far as I know (from what versa told me), it hadn't even gotten to the states... the last known position being Missisauga...
What a bummer eh? But it is what it is, and I will just have to make due. Next thing you know they will say, prove you bought this, and I will say uhh I don't have a reciept it came standard with my rifle and they will say, sorry sucker... (lets hope I don't have this much bad luck :)) :bangHead:

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Things are moving again... without bad luck this time! Finally got the scope mounted in some rings! High Quality NEAR rings, until Richard gets my Alphamount back so he can replace/modify it.

Figure the postal service has lost my package and even if they haven't I won't find out what has happened to it for like 90 days... so that puts me well into the shooting season... so I pulled the trigger on an Atlas bipod... seen nothing but good reviews on the latest iteration of it (with previous iterations having very minor grievances and you can send it back to Kasey and he will upgrade it free of charge!).

Winter ORA Training #2 this Saturday, w00t :)

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Well I know I left you all waiting far too long and for that I am sorry! But here you go, I hope it was worth the wait :p A few pictures to wet your appetite until I have the new bipod mounted and the Alpha Mount back (for this will use better scenery, natural lighting, etc)!

IMG_1143.jpg

IMG_1144.jpg

IMG_1145.jpg

IMG_1146.jpg

IMG_1149.jpg

IMG_1150.jpg


Thanks,
- Koshy
 
Heaven finally smiles upon thee, young man. That looks slick, and I hope it can shoot just as well.

Those turret knobs are huge! The added torque must make them easier to turn - anyone who owns a Schmidt can tell you that it's easy to go over a couple of clicks when turning the turrets on one because of the spring resistance.

Hah, my bipod is compatible with your stock's spigot! If I were in the area, I'd pass by and let you try it - you'll have to use sandbags for now.

Target pics are a must!
 
Heaven finally smiles upon thee, young man. That looks slick, and I hope it can shoot just as well.

Those turret knobs are huge! The added torque must make them easier to turn - anyone who owns a Schmidt can tell you that it's easy to go over a couple of clicks when turning the turrets on one because of the spring resistance.

Hah, my bipod is compatible with your stock's spigot! If I were in the area, I'd pass by and let you try it - you'll have to use sandbags for now.

Target pics are a must!

Yess :)

The knobs are extremely accurate to turn and hit the exact point you want them to (after the clicker fix).

What bipod do you use (and thanks for the offer)? I also cannot seem to find your thread anymore =(
And yes it would be nice to use the Spigot, but it is not vital, and I can remove the spigot, and if they ever do an adapter for the spigot I can always upgrade :)

I will be using my Eberlestock backpack for shooting until I get the Atlas. Should work well enough for the type of shooting I will be doing until the spring.

Well I was looking at the $75 bushy that was on there the other day... and to be totally honest i don't think the rings are holding it very well (seems like the upper and lower rings aren't matching the same spot -- flush), also the fact it is a $75 bushy :p

I haven't taken a picture of my best group with the Bushy at the 50 yard mark, but I calculated it both in height (14mm) and width (10mm) (then divide by 2), comes to: 0.47" then subtract the caliber size = 0.16" that is about 0.3 MOA? That was just using a ruler and not a Measuring Caliper. THIS WAS A 5 SHOT GROUP (3 shot proves nothing). If it were 3 shot it would have all been the same hole.

I'm not trying to make excuses, and I know 50 yards isn't exactly a "real" distance to shoot at, BUT with all that being said:
- Cheap ammo
- Length of pull was totally wrong (to the point I was bruising my arm) (possible reason why I was also 2 feet off target to the left after every shot)
- Broken bipod (possible reason why I was also 2 feet off target to the left after every shot)
- Wrong Eye Relief for Prone (was set up for sitting bench)
- Haven't shot in about 4 years, and first time with "owning" a Center Fire (Shot Center Fire a few times in the past).

I hope I and my setup can do better next time I am out (starting with the 50) :) And in next few weeks shooting the 100 and 200 yard, which will have to suffice until the Spring.

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
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The regular definition of "group size" is the centre-to-centre distance of the two furthest shots in the group.

Some times there are good reasons to measure group height and width separately, in which case it should be clearly stated "group was X tall, Y wide". For example, after every match I shoot or coach, I record group height (as a proxy indicator of no-wind group size) and group width (as a proxy for how variable the wind was).

Depending on the size of the group, there are a few ways you can do the measurement:

1 - measure outside-edge to outside-edge of the two furthest shots, then subtract a bullet diameter.
1a - put a bullet in your calipers, zero your calipers, then measure outside-edge to outside-edge; the reading on your caliper is the group size (you've mechanically subtracted a bullet diameter)

2 - measure centre to centre of the furthest shots. Can be difficult for smaller groups

3 - measure inside-edge of one shot to outside edge of the other. Read group size directly from calipers.


There's nothing wrong with shooting at 50 yards, it beats not shooting at all.

Other than zeroing your rifle though, el-cheapo ammo won't tell you much about your rifle's accuracy. If you reload, try any of the standard known-good loads. If you don't yet reload, try any of the good off the shelf match ammo. This ought to shoot groups at 50 yards of 1/2" or less.

There's actually a fair bit of skill involved in shooting sub-MOA groups (at 50 yards, that would be anything less than 1/2") from a rifle off a bench or bipod, and a great many of these skills (e.g. trigger control, breath control, sight picture, mental focus, follow-through etc) are useful in most other kinds of shooting too, so you would not be wasting your time figuring out what it is you must do in order to have all of your 5-shot groups at 50 yards be under 1/2".
 
Koshy, a very nice looking rifle and certainly unique being a Steyr.

Not sure if the plan was to shoot in F class matches but the rear monopod would need to be removed as these are not allowed. Only a rear bag can be used. Certainly something can be fashioned to bolt on to that stock.

Look forward to seeing more shooting results.

Jerry
 
The regular definition of "group size" is the centre-to-centre distance of the two furthest shots in the group.

Some times there are good reasons to measure group height and width separately, in which case it should be clearly stated "group was X tall, Y wide". For example, after every match I shoot or coach, I record group height (as a proxy indicator of no-wind group size) and group width (as a proxy for how variable the wind was).

Depending on the size of the group, there are a few ways you can do the measurement:

1 - measure outside-edge to outside-edge of the two furthest shots, then subtract a bullet diameter.
1a - put a bullet in your calipers, zero your calipers, then measure outside-edge to outside-edge; the reading on your caliper is the group size (you've mechanically subtracted a bullet diameter)

2 - measure centre to centre of the furthest shots. Can be difficult for smaller groups

3 - measure inside-edge of one shot to outside edge of the other. Read group size directly from calipers.


There's nothing wrong with shooting at 50 yards, it beats not shooting at all.

Other than zeroing your rifle though, el-cheapo ammo won't tell you much about your rifle's accuracy. If you reload, try any of the standard known-good loads. If you don't yet reload, try any of the good off the shelf match ammo. This ought to shoot groups at 50 yards of 1/2" or less.

There's actually a fair bit of skill involved in shooting sub-MOA groups (at 50 yards, that would be anything less than 1/2") from a rifle off a bench or bipod, and a great many of these skills (e.g. trigger control, breath control, sight picture, mental focus, follow-through etc) are useful in most other kinds of shooting too, so you would not be wasting your time figuring out what it is you must do in order to have all of your 5-shot groups at 50 yards be under 1/2".

Thanks for that wonderful information, I appreciate you taking the time.

I totally agree, getting to shoot is better than not shooting at all!

I have some Federal Gold Match 168 gr waiting in the wings for me to get out to 100+ yards :)

Well I have a good 3 years shooting .22's and was also coached in that time period. So it is a testimate to what he taught me then I guess :)

I would say the major skill I need to work on still is follow through, now something that might have been throwing me off is since the rifle was "jumping" and by the time it settled down was 2 feet off target. Although it does train me to be consistent with body position, etc (because I have to get back into it after every shot). It makes it kind of hard to follow through/know if you are following through because your sight picture is way off after the shot :p

But with all that being said, I appreciate the positive feedback, and also the infusion of knowledge =)

Koshy, a very nice looking rifle and certainly unique being a Steyr.

Not sure if the plan was to shoot in F class matches but the rear monopod would need to be removed as these are not allowed. Only a rear bag can be used. Certainly something can be fashioned to bolt on to that stock.

Look forward to seeing more shooting results.

Jerry

Thank you, I love it so far :)

For F-Class would it need to be removed or just not used? I didn't plan on using it for F-Class shooting or Precision Rifle even if it was allowed, I wanted to use a rear bag :) I can remove it if necessary though (Thank goodness) :)

Once all is said and done, and the build is complete the rifle should squeak in under 16.5 lbs and should end up about 16.4-16.45 hahah (If I need to drop a little more weight, I can remove the side mounting rails, as well as the monopod and front Spigot) :p Perfect for Precision Rifle :D

I just hope I can compete in Factory Rifle F-Class, as that would be fun and not having to face all sorts of crazy custom guns :p

Thanks,
- Koshy
 
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