500S&W antique double barrel pistol.

i think i should look into makeing the gun shoot 500s&w 1" or maybe 1.2" case. that should not be that bad.
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Case length is not the issue but rather the load behind it. As Dingus said, It would be easy to seat the bullet within the case. I reload a number of rounds that way. You can eliminate the chance of the gun chambering a real 500S&W roundby chambering it a little short and seating your bullet inside the case directly on top of the powder. Cool idea....
 
tactical870 said:
Case length is not the issue but rather the load behind it. As Dingus said, It would be easy to seat the bullet within the case. I reload a number of rounds that way. You can eliminate the chance of the gun chambering a real 500S&W roundby chambering it a little short and seating your bullet inside the case directly on top of the powder. Cool idea....
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i like that idea. i did not know you can do that. , ill look into that some more.


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So I talked to my gun smith he wants $500.00 all in. work and parts.. Do you think that’s a good deal?

-he will make a new barrel. SS
-make a new set of grips.
-beef up the frame a little.
-dura cote the frame and barrel.
-test fire the gun.

He thinks the rd’s should be cut down to .69-1” what do you think.


or.. i caN keep the gun asis. and use it in .450 adams. witch looks not that bad. but how is it for bears?
 
That Belgian gun is a piss poor platform to do this project on starpuss.

There not strong like the remy or other Nagant rolling block pistols.

As far as seating the bullet in all the way flush with the case it works in the SXS type guns as you dont gota worry about bullet crimp like in a revolver.
You dont have to worry about the second bullet jumping forward from the recoil of the frist shot so you can just push the bullet in flush with the case mouth but it should be tight you could use 50 caliber round balls to.

But id be looking for a much stronger frame you will end up with both barrels sticking out your skull when the grip strap busts as the soft iron gives to the presure and recoil. your gun smith cant do much with that steel to make it stronger. attaching stuff to it wont really help as the attacment point make more week spots.

I am all for a good heavy load but with the right platform so you keep your hands and your puss :p.
 
dingus said:
That Belgian gun is a piss poor platform to do this project on starpuss.

There not strong like the remy or other Nagant rolling block pistols.

As far as seating the bullet in all the way flush with the case it works in the SXS type guns as you dont gota worry about bullet crimp like in a revolver.
You dont have to worry about the second bullet jumping forward from the recoil of the frist shot so you can just push the bullet in flush with the case mouth but it should be tight you could use 50 caliber round balls to.

But id be looking for a much stronger frame you will end up with both barrels sticking out your skull when the grip strap busts as the soft iron gives to the presure and recoil. your gun smith cant do much with that steel to make it stronger. attaching stuff to it wont really help as the attacment point make more week spots.

I am all for a good heavy load but with the right platform so you keep your hands and your puss :p.
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ok ill save my money and keep it in .450 ill still clean it up and dura cote it. and maybe change the grips. (will be a camping gun so dont want it to rust much.)


well time to make a order from buffaloarms
 
If your gunsmith is willing to build it and you are willing to shoot it, somewhere two villages are missing their idiots. I have a gun very similar to that and would not trust anything much more powerful than a 22 rimfire in it. The shells it was originally chambered for were very mild anemic little shells regardless of bullet diameter. As many have already said, firing a vastly more powerful cartridge in that gun is nothing short of stupid.

cheers mooncoon
 
Starpuss..... If you want a real bear gun pick up that nepalese martini off the EE and use the action to build a pass pistol. Sleeve the bore or rebarrel to 500 S&W and you should be good to go. If you send me your email I'll send you the CFC email I have saying it's ok to alter barrel lengths on antiques.
 
You could lengthen the chamber to use .45 s&w brass and make a longer round with bullets seated out that runs at the same low pressure but flies a bit faster.

Edit: Thought I'd add to make sure the hinge is tight, barrel locks down to the action tight with no play and no excessive headspace.
 
tactical870 said:
Starpuss..... If you want a real bear gun pick up that nepalese martini off the EE and use the action to build a pass pistol. Sleeve the bore or rebarrel to 500 S&W and you should be good to go. If you send me your email I'll send you the CFC email I have saying it's ok to alter barrel lengths on antiques.
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A Cadet Carbine with a buggered muzzle could be made into a gyppo howdah pistol, that would get a bear's attention! I fear that if Starpuss went ahead with the .500 S&W project, he'd have to change his name to "Scarpuss". ;)
 
starpuss said:
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Its such a neat origional unit...Why change it at all??

The 450 its origionally chambered for is a fairly respectable round as is

A good cleaning, and at most a cold bluing is all she needs in my opinion.

Its quite interesting ...as is.... if you ask me.

Cheers
 
IMMHO I think is beautiful the way it is.


Mooncoon, Thanks for the chuckle friend:)

"If your gunsmith is willing to build it and you are willing to shoot it, somewhere two villages are missing their idiots."
 
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