Refnish a Laminate Russian SKS Stock

Ftaview

Ftaview

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So I bought me one of those Russian SKS rifles, with a laminate stock

It's kind of a dark red/brown and shiny, I assume some sort of shellac/varathane

has a few nics, scratches, some rough spots and so on.....

I am thinking of redoing it, but would like to know how....

Do I need to get some paint/shellac stripper solution, do I just start sanding, starting with coarse paper and working my way up to the finest, take a wire wheel to it ?????

I don't want to ruin the laminate, so that it starts to come apart on me

So what is the best method to get it off and smooth, to take a new coat of clear varathane, and then a light buff with some 0000 steel wool, to cut down the shine......

Thanks for any suggestions.....

I have ideas, but don't want to mess it up......
 
Out of an abundance of caution, I'd sand it off. I'd be worried that a stripper would damage the glue in the laminate. You have the right idea about progessively finer grades of sandpaper. I like open coat automotive papers, they tend to last and not load up with old finish as easily.
 
I have refinished the laminated on my beat up russian, dont worry you can use paint stripper. Its much better than sanding and you wont harm the number or arsenal marking on the stock. Apply paint stripper and let it work then use medium steel wool to clean the stock, and finish polishing with fine steel wool. After you can put the finish you want.
 
Try true oil worked fine for many users here.

svt1940 said:
I have refinished the laminated on my beat up russian, dont worry you can use paint stripper. Its much better than sanding and you wont harm the number or arsenal marking on the stock. Apply paint stripper and let it work then use medium steel wool to clean the stock, and finish polishing with fine steel wool. After you can put the finish you want.
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Don't use Paint stripper or Oven cleaner, this stuff is way to harsh.

I had good results by using rubbing alcochol and 0000 steel wool to remove the shellack.

next step:
  • you can use 400 grit sandpaper if your stock is rough and scratched,
  • or use only 600 grit sandpaper to polish and smoothen the wood.
  • several coats of true oil will finish the project.
This will leave a beautiful finish which really enhances the laminated wood.
 
Thing about most paint strippers is they don't really suspend shellac very well - somebody at Home Depot told me exactly why but I can't recall now. I asked for the same reason you are =).

The shellac on your SKS can be fairly thick (read: messy) - Rubber gloves, a pail to catch the mess, a bundle of the lint free painter's wipes (blue shop towels work good too) and a gallon jug of Methyl Hydrate (Home Depot: $4.50) and you're off to the races. Wet down the stock, wet down a rag - scrub. Repeat until it's clean. Using alcohol also side-steps the "what do I do with this toxic and flammable mess when I'm done" problem. You just bundle the towels and chuck 'em.

I used a "Red Wood" Varithaine "Gel-Stain" deck stain (recomended for hard, glue impregnated products like laminates) on a couple of mine. The darker tint looks like the Albanian stocks I've seen in pictures, and the lighter looks like AK wood.

Truoil does give a nice finish. A nice brown finish. *yawn* ;P
 
Thanks to all so far that have responded and given me their thoughts....

so far 2 say to just sand, 1 for paint stripper and 1 to use Methyl Hydrate, I guess that would be close to paint stripper as well

it seems to be evenly matched more or less, on what procedure to use, hmmmmm

as for finishing, not so keen on making it brown, so the tru oil might not be the way to go, there are many products just like true oil, but with a possibly a reddish tinge, and then I think I will apply a number of coats of clear varathane, and buff lightly with 0000 steel wool, or leave the shine, as it does have the shine now.

As for the numbers stamped, not worried about them, I am not after a collectors rifle, I want to remove some of the small scratches and dings if possible only.

The stock does not need to be perfect (can have some dings or dimples) but the finish is what I am after, this I want to be nice and smooth, I would like it too feel good......LOL

I think I will experiment a bit on using a combination of ways mentioned, and see what really works the best on my stock, and hopefully I will be able to come back and let you all know....

Thanks for the input so far.....
 
Do not use wood alcohol. To melt the shellac use denatured or 99% ispropopal. It is the closest thing to what the shellac flakes were originaly disolved in. Methyl Hydrate evaporates too quickly.
 
I am a painter by trade and can tell you that "Methyl Hydrate" will not strip the shellac based varnish that they used. Go to a paint store and get a lacquer based stripper. Then use a wax wash to remove there staining so you get an even color & sand start @ 250 grit and work your way down to 600. Next use a lacquer soaked rag and wipe off any excess dust and stuff and let dry. Then use some "GEL" based stain to re-apply by rubbing it in. Note spit on your finger and rub on the dried stained stock to check for color due to the fact that it should take multiple coats. Also all ways work with the grain and never ever against it. Then get some exterior varithiane to apply to the out side of the wood. Remember to use #0000 steel wool between every step in the process to maintain a smooth finish.
 
Thanks for the additional input....

Satain said:
Go to a paint store and get a lacquer based stripper. Then use a wax wash to remove there staining so you get an even color
Click to expand...

I will take a look at this, have a Benjamin Moore just around the corner, as for the wax wash, depending on how it looks after getting the shellac off, this might not be necessary, I like the color it is now, just trying to get some of the dings and dents out, and make it smooth...

I did a Boyds stock, only thing is I did not have to remove a shellac coating from it, mostly sand and seal, and yes rubbing with steel wool between coats, and a final rub after the last coat, just to remove the shine, I wanted the matte look. I think it turned out OK, hopefully I can get the SKS stock to come out as good, I will be happy....

a few pics of the Boyds stock


P1030478.jpg


P1030479.jpg


P1030486.jpg
 
Satain said:
I am a painter by trade and can tell you that "Methyl Hydrate" will not strip the shellac based varnish that they used.
Click to expand...

*shrug* worked good for me. 2 SKS and an M44 so far. I tried Polystrippa and the Heirloom "Robust" strippers (recommended @ HD) - I found them too messy. The chemical seemed to flash off too quickly leaving my towels sticking to the stock.
 
Good stuff for removing shellac;
rem_1850_furniture_stripper.jpg

For a stain match to the Russian red check out Old Master's Gel Stain. The color for the hardwood is;
Crimson Fire
as for the laminate;
Cherry
Should give you the best results.
As for the clear coat protectant look for a "polyurethane varnish with a fire retardant rating" can be found at most industrial paint store's.
Yes Ftaview all this can be found at any Benjamin Moore store.
Also Deltasilver Heirloom is NOT Methyl Hydrate it is a laquer based furniture stripper almost the same as the one mention above. Also to stop this stickey towel stuff from happening. Apply a liberal amount to the stock and then wait a few moment's then with a 50/50 mix of laquer thin/striper soak another rag and wipe off.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Thanks Satain......

I will stop by the store, and see about the mentioned products, hopefully they are not an arm and leg to purchase, as I only have the one stock to do, and wont' know what to do with the rest of the stuff left over.....

On the other stock I used the following, it was in a spray can, Varathane, Crystal Clear Waterbourne, Diamond Wood Finish, Interior, in a Gloss, non yellowing, fast drying

I did not know to look for a fire retardant rating, good thing I don't smoke....LOL

And Thanks for the advise on the color for the stain.....

Cheers
 
Before & After

Ftaview said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Thanks Satain......

I will stop by the store, and see about the mentioned products, hopefully they are not an arm and leg to purchase, as I only have the one stock to do, and wont' know what to do with the rest of the stuff left over.....

On the other stock I used the following, it was in a spray can, Varathane, Crystal Clear Waterbourne, Diamond Wood Finish, Interior, in a Gloss, non yellowing, fast drying

I did not know to look for a fire retardant rating, good thing I don't smoke....LOL

And Thanks for the advise on the color for the stain.....

Cheers
Click to expand...

Make sure to take before and after pics along with a recap of the ingredients used. Threads that have such information are eternally useful.
 
To save on all the rags, I use a small scraper,/putty knive to remove 95%
of the mess, then use steel wool with stripper to clean up what you miss
with the scraper.
Then when you have it down to wood, use dry steel wool to clean it up.
That is very easy stripper to use , the only kind I use now.
Good luck.
P.S. get a old card board box with a good bottom in it and stand your stock in
when you are cleaning off the mess, all the goo will end up in the box and not all over the floor.
 
A lot of great info here guys....Thanks

I am looking at getting all the materials I need and start this project this weekend, if nothing else creeps up and I have to set it aside.

I somehow don't see myself doing this in the house, so I will be at my brothers machine shop, and do this there, lots of space to work, old and new rags, air compressor, tools, and peace and quiet on the weekend (no wife and kids around), unless he is working I will be alone, or just the 2 of us. While the rifle is apart maybe I get him to polish up some of the parts on the trigger, nothing major, just a nice polish on the contact points...give him something to do as well....

Can't wait to get started.....

Cheers
 
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