Just bought a M1 Garand and I noticed that the front hand guard wobbles side to side a little. I also noticed that when I wobble it back and forth the gas cylinder and front sight move very slightly. Is this normal or is this something I need to fix?
Garand lose front hand gaurd
- Thread starter lorne19
- Start date
A loose front handguard is OK. You don't want it tight against the gas cylinder or your groups will open up when the rifle gets hot. The loose gas cylinder is not OK for good accuracy, but can be easily remedied. Remove the gas cylinder from the rifle and gently peen the splines on the barrel where the gas cylinder rides. You don't want to whack it, just use a steel punch and peen the edges of the splines. Do it evenly on both sides, all the way around. When you slide the GC back onto the barrel you will encounter resistance from the peened splines. This will keep your gas cylinder/front sights securely in place. When sliding the GC back onto the barrel, you may need to tap it with a hammer and punch/flathead screwdriver to get it all the way on. If so, use the screwdriver/punch ONLY on the bottom of the bayonet lug next to the gas cylinder body. Otherwise, you might damage the gas cylinder. When removing the gas cylinder prior to peening, count the revolutions to remove the gas cylinder lock. It should be 12, sometimes 11. When assembling after peening, go the same number of revolutions to ensure the gas cylinder is in it's proper position. I know this sounds complicated, but it is really pretty easy. Congratulations on your purchase! I find it to be the most accurate and rugged battle rifle in the world, albeit a bit heavy.
I've seen this. I'm sure there is a bit of end float there when the gas lock lines up with the hole...
One thing you can do short of peening the gas cylinder grooves:
Get a thin piece of leather shoelace or similar, slice a thin shim of it 2-3 or so inches long, put it around the curve in the groove the handguard goes into (when you have the handguard off of course), just enough that when you tighten the cylinder lock, it has to close against resistance as it lines up to install the gas plug.
That'll stop the rubber chicken rattling if nothing else.
I can't imagine it'd hurt the accuracy any.
Last edited:
Uh, guys, if you read the US military manuals on the thing, or if you have Hatcher's "Book of the Garand", you will find that the front handguard is DESIGNED to be loose. Tightening it in any way WILL affect how the rifle shoots.
BTW, here's a nasty little trick you can do with a Garand.
The Garand rear sight is adjustable in 1-minute clicks. The front sight is 4 minutes wide. Put your rear sight out 2 clicks, then aim with the CORNER of the front sight. REALLY tightens your groups up.
Serious.
For a real test of your rifle, use sandbags, use your sights like this, and use a SQUARE black aiming-point about 4 inches square as an aiming-point, at 100 yards. Just see how tight you can put your shots down there. With called 2-round groups ("hunter" or "sniper" groups, some call them) from a cold barrel, mine will do half an inch.... if you can hold it.
BTW, here's a nasty little trick you can do with a Garand.
The Garand rear sight is adjustable in 1-minute clicks. The front sight is 4 minutes wide. Put your rear sight out 2 clicks, then aim with the CORNER of the front sight. REALLY tightens your groups up.
Serious.
For a real test of your rifle, use sandbags, use your sights like this, and use a SQUARE black aiming-point about 4 inches square as an aiming-point, at 100 yards. Just see how tight you can put your shots down there. With called 2-round groups ("hunter" or "sniper" groups, some call them) from a cold barrel, mine will do half an inch.... if you can hold it.
It's normal.
You can fix it if you want, easily, without any downside, by putting a drop of silicone sealant on the underside of the handguard. Let it set, momentarily, and then reassemble the rifle. Later, if you want to undo it, just peel it off.
