Recoil pads: weight/quality questions

double gun

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I am gathering supplies to finish up 2 lightweights, and need some specs on pads. I was hoping someone had the typical weight of the Decelerator pads in both 0.6" and 1" thickness. Also, as anyone tried the kick-eez pads? How are they to grind, and how do they comapare weight wise to the Pachmayr pads?
 
double gun;
I just finished up trying to see how light I could make a 98 Mauser and in the process ended up laying all the components on a scale.

The recently purchased 1" Decelerator went about 5.5oz before grinding and if my math and memory are correct would have been about 5oz once it was ground to fit.

I was surprised how much it weighed actually, but then I was equally surprised how much some rings and bases weighed as well. The same went for slings, who knew a leather sling could be as much as 7oz?

I've had very good luck putting on roughly 6 Decelerators in the last few years. The newer ones seem a bit softer if anything than the older ones, but that is only a perception on my part.

I can't recall now which other brand was being discussed on another gunsmithing forum, but it was one of the ones touted to have good recoil absorbing qualities...but - a couple fellows spoke of having to freeze the stock and then lubricate the pad with something like WD40 in order to be able to shape it.:(

Anyway, hopefully that was some use to you. Good luck with your light weight build.

Regards,
Dwayne
 
For extreme light weight contact Corlane's in Dawson Creek. They sell a foam that has no hard backing plate. The backing plate and steel re-inforces are probably major contributors to the overall weight. That makes it an epoxy job to install. The last one I installed a few years back was simply a long rectangle of 1" dense black foam similar to flip flop foam. I suspect it has some industrial application but also works well as a pad. It is softer than a decelerator by a small bit. It shapes quite nicely with care.
 
Thanks guys.
BC30cal - I too have installed several Decelerators with no issue, but like you said, they arent light.
Stocker - Thanks for the tip. I suspect you are right in that the main weight is the backing plate/steel, so the 0.6" isnt probably much lighter than the 1". Any idea how well the foam pads stand up with use?
 
DG: It's been on my son's Brown Precision stock for his M70, 7mm mag. for a few years now. Still in good shape but he doesn't abuse it when he carries it. With a reasonable amount of care should last a long time and easy enough to replace if necessary.
 
I am gathering supplies to finish up 2 lightweights, and need some specs on pads. I was hoping someone had the typical weight of the Decelerator pads in both 0.6" and 1" thickness. Also, as anyone tried the kick-eez pads? How are they to grind, and how do they comapare weight wise to the Pachmayr pads?


I've used and sold many Kick-Eez pads. My gunsmith swears by them. Says they are the easiest to grind pad he has ever used.

Sorry I don't have the weights of them.
 
I have a kick-eez on a rifled slug gun, it works great and was very easy to work on as Wooly said. The one BC30cal mentioned (freezing the pad and wd-40 for lube) would be the limbsaver, which also works great, but it is a little harder to work with. I didn't have to freeze mine or lube it, but I didn't end up with a super smooth finish either. Weight wise, slug gun recoil pad measures 4.650" x 1.625", factory pad (Mossberg) weighs 5oz, Kick-eez weighs 5.5oz. Savage 111F factory pad (4.870" x 1.675") weighs 3 oz, precision fit Limbsaver for the same gun weighs 4.5 oz.

If your willing to sacrifice some pain for weight savings, the Savage hockey puck wins, hands down. You can have mine, just pay the shipping. The limbsavers seem to be the next best for weight, and do not have a metal plate in them like the kick-eez or the decelerator, which probably helps with the weight savings. I also find the Limbsaver a bit softer than the kick-eez, but it also costs around $20 more. I don't have a Decelerator to compare to.

Jim
 
if its on a synthetic and you are painting up to the rubber, just grind the hard rubber down till its almost gone, then rip the steel out and glue it on like you would normally.

Supposedly Brown or Bansner sells a decellerator type pad without the metal, but its jsut as easy to buy one off the shelf and rip it out.
 
if its on a synthetic and you are painting up to the rubber, just grind the hard rubber down till its almost gone, then rip the steel out and glue it on like you would normally.

Supposedly Brown or Bansner sells a decellerator type pad without the metal, but its jsut as easy to buy one off the shelf and rip it out.

Thanks for the tip! Do you know whether Browns and bansners are just ground down pads with it removed or do they get Pachmayr to make them without the steel?
 
Thanks for the tip! Do you know whether Browns and bansners are just ground down pads with it removed or do they get Pachmayr to make them without the steel?

I have no idea, I read that they exist on the internet (so it must be true).

I do know that the pads that Pachmayr made for Pacific Research had no insert.
 
If you are actually looking for some recoil relief use the Simms. I replaced an old pachmyer (that didn't have a metal insert at all) with one of these and it is way better. As for weight...I wouldn't care if it did weigh more.
 
I received a couple PM's about lightening up a Decellerator, and just helped a buddy shorten a stock and replace the regular pachmayr pad with a decellerator.

the new pad

DSC03925.jpg


ground flat on a belt sander, so 1/32" - 1/16" of the hard rubber is left

DSC03926.jpg


find the edge of the insert with an xacto knife and cut around one side

DSC03927.jpg


metal insert pulled out and ready to glue on

DSC03929.jpg


On a postal scale, the pad lost almost 2 ounces. Actual loss will be less since you then grind away some of the outside. Still, for 5 minutes and no cost, it beats fluting a bolt for a 1-1/2 ounce reduction.
 
When you glue it on first drill two holes in the stock for dowels. The dowels should protrude just enough so they catch the bottom of the holes in the pad. This keeps the pad centered so you can lightly clamp it without it sliding around. Once you get the holes spaced right and the dowels cut to fit you can do all the glueing at one time.
 
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