30-06 Zeroing

If you normally shoot game at 100 yds. or less, sight in at 100, if your average game is shot at longer range sight in at 200. There seems to be a facsination with magnification in scopes these days, more isn't necessarily better. A 4x is perfectly adequate out to 250 yds. for big game. I have seen .30/30 Marlins wearing 3-9x scopes which is ridiculous. Carry binoculars for glassing and examining game at long range. The on at 25 yards is on at 200 depends directly on how high your scope is mounted above the bore. Ever try to shoot the head off a partridge at close range with a scope sighted rifle, the bullet doesn't go where the crosshairs are.
 
My rule of thumb roughly follows thus . . .
velocity below 2000 fps, 100 yard zero
velocity between 2000 and 2400, 150 yard zero
velocity between 2400 and 2800, 200 yard zero
Velocity over 2800 fps, 250 yard zero.
 
There seems to be a fascination with magnification in scopes these days, more isn't necessarily better. A 4x is perfectly adequate out to 250 yds. for big game. I have seen .30/30 Marlins wearing 3-9x scopes which is ridiculous. Carry binoculars for glassing and examining game at long range.

I agree. People have got a bit stupid with the Hubbles they hobble their hobby with. Light weight, a low mount and proper cheek weld are very important to good shooting.

Also, people who glass areas and identify targets through a rifle scope should have some sense beaten into them with their own optics.
 
Some people's eye sight isn't what it used to be thus they have moved up to more magnification so they can continue to enjoy this sport.

Myself 200 yards is max for a 4X scope and where I used to use 2-7X scopes I have now moved up to 3-9X and where I had 3-9X scopes I have moved up to 4.5-14X...
 
Failing eyesight is one thing, but it gets really interesting when you cant remember what you were just looking at through the bino's or what your scope zero is.
 
Where I hunt it is mostly bush. In the last ten years my longest shot was 80 yards, so I am sighted in at zero at 100yards.

Works every time for me.
 
I chrony my loads, then zero for maximum point blank range. Then I make a chart up for drop at further distances. I generally have my rifle zeroed for a 150 gr @ 290 yds. Anything between there and muzzle is no more than 2.5 inches high or low. I have shot animals at 500 yds by holding over but beyond that I wouldn't trust either the round or my holdover guess. I have access to a 600 yd range so if my shooting will be consistantly long distance, then I will zero for longer range. I usually tailor a rifle/round combination and use it only for that. Dedicated combos like that are more reliable. Luckily, I have a better half that lets me keep several rilfes per calibre so I can do that.
 
I chrony my loads, then zero for maximum point blank range. Then I make a chart up for drop at further distances. I generally have my rifle zeroed for a 150 gr @ 290 yds. Anything between there and muzzle is no more than 2.5 inches high or low....


I agree,
but some times it's easier to have the info to read for yourself, read here:

http://w w w.realguns.com/calc/exteriorballistics

http://w w w.chuckhawks.com/index2.guns.htm

Between these two sites I was able to get it...
 
With my 270 (shooting 150 gr. bullets) , my 30-06 and my 300 Winchester magnum (with 180s) I have them all shooting around two inches high at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero.

Every rifle is different though and even though in theory if you are dead centre at 25 yards you should be "on" at 200, the chances of that happening are slim. I shoot my rifles at 25, 50, 100 and 200 to be sure where they shoot.

And you're fine with a 4 power scope for that.
 
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Sigh in Procedure with hunting rifles


1. For most rifles in 30/06 and with the standard do it all 165 gr bullet,
Zero in for 200 yds.

2. Take your time, bring more than what you think you need for ammo
(all the same brand) do it right, let your barrel cool off a bit between
shots, Use a semi soft rest under the forearm not the barrel, shoot prone
Try to pick a day with little or no wind.

3. Set target at 200yds. Start with 3 shot groups for rough zeroing and
finish with 5 shot groups for fine zero. Shoot carefully, no hurry here

4. Keep your last target and mark the range, date, shooting position, ammo
type and weather conditions. This is your 200 yd zero target.
The cross hairs and group center should be exactly the same.:)

5. Go to 100 yds set new target and fire 3 shots exactly at the bullseye.

6. Confirm where the group is (Should be a little smaller group and 2 to 2 1/2
inches higher. :)

7. Keep target, mark same data as you did with 200 yd zero and go to 300
yds and set new target

8. Carefully shoot 3 shots at the bullseye and note where the group is
centered. It should be a little bigger group and about 8 inches to 10
inches lower. :)

9. Keep target and mark data as before.

10. Your rifle is now zeroed in for 200yd and you've got a good idea as to its
trajectory at other distances
In this case you'll be
(a) Approx 2 in high at 100 yd
(b) Dead on the money at 200 yd
(c) Approx 8 in low at 300 yd

11 Extrapolate any distances in between eg approximately 1 inch high at 150
yds and approximately 4 inches low at 250 yd. Using this method you'll
very close to shooting dead center all the time with a little forgiveness
thrown in for shooter error
 
Oh and make sure to do this every year before hunting season to ensure rifle/scope zero has not changed since last time.
 
have always sighted my 06 in for dead on at 25 yards.usually about 1.5-2 inches high at 100 yards and dead on again around 225 yards.still only about 7-10 inches low at 300 yards.hope this helps.
 
you are not going to see much with a 4x scope at 100 and probably nothing at 200 yards. I would invest in at least a 3x9x scope for 100.

BS! You never looked through a 4x or something.... I have 4X on 3 of my big game rifles. My variables stay set at 4x most of the time too. I personally know you can kill a deer at 400 yards with a 4x and a 30/06 because I have seen it done. I don't recommend it nor do I ever intend to try it on live animals myself but the idea that you can't shoot at 200 with a 4X is laughable. I do it at the range every weekend. I also know 9x is really too much magnification for hunting unless you like shaky sight pictures.


Zero at 200 is sensible if you live in an area where shots at that range are common. I stay at 200 yard zero and I live on the open prairie in sask. 30/06 with 150 will get the job done way past that range. The majority of my deer were taken well under 100, but the opportunity sometimes comes up to shoot a bit longer.
 
you are not going to see much with a 4x scope at 100 and probably nothing at 200 yards. I would invest in at least a 3x9x scope for 100.

What? I must have read that wrong!
None other than the famous Jack O'Connor wrote that 4x was the ideal fixed power scope for a hunting rifle. And that included mountain hunting.
Many well heeled hunters hired top rated Alaskan and Yukon outfitters, then went on month long horse trips in the mountains, with a Lyman Alaskan scope, of either 2½ or 4 power, on their rifles.
 
Personally I prefer a heavier bullet in the '06. 180 Nosler Partitions are my favourite and I might be tempted to go to 165 if I only hunted deer or open country.

2" high at 100 and check it at 200 and you're ready to hunt.
 
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