Oh sh*t, I think I broke my wheel gun..

T

TDC

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So I was cleaning my new to me S&W model 10 the the other night. I removed the cylinder release and attempted to remove the side plate. Well the side plate wouldn't come off so I gave up. After installing all the screws, the grips, the crane and cylinder I proceeded to function test. The cylinder drags excessively when dry firing and now I can't get the cylinder to open. The cylinder release is still removed as it too will not install properly.

I have limited experience with the workings of wheel guns(if you know me I hate them) and have no idea if I have pooched my model 10 or if it is a minor problem. Any ideas???

TDC
 
I had a similar problem with my Taurus. Your gun is not pooched. You probably will have to take the side plate off though. Check out The Gun Digest firearms assembly/disassembly part 2 revolvers book from amazon.ca. This will give you step by step instruction with photos and tips. It is a lot more involved than a Glock detailed strip.

My problem was a lever and spring not moving to full travel.
 
albertacoyotecaller said:
I never thought I would see a post about you and your wheel gun????

Greg
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Well it sounds like his mechanical ability is about as good as mine is and he broke his revolver so you can half forgive his post. A revolver REALLY TDC I fully expect the sun to rise in the West tomorrow.

Take care

Bob
ps I doubt you broke anything but you likely have something either not installed properly or one of those screws you took out let something inside go. There really isn't much to the Model 10 so you might want to google a schematic
 
I was reluctant to post because of my distaste for wheel guns and the ribbing I would get. It was cheap, its entertaining and it has proven itself to be a temper-mental beast.

The cylinder rod from what I can tell has not backed off. The cylinder release(without the button as it is removed) will not move in either direction.

TDC
 
TDC said:
I was reluctant to post because of my distaste for wheel guns and the ribbing I would get. It was cheap, its entertaining and it has proven itself to be a temper-mental beast.

The cylinder rod from what I can tell has not backed off. The cylinder release(without the button as it is removed) will not move in either direction.

TDC
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Take the side plate screws out and look at them, i think you will find one is a different length. It has to go in the proper hole, and i'm busy trying to remember which one that is

To get the side plate off, take the cylinder off (remove the screw up front holding the crane in and draw it off forward,

take out the side plate screws, the take a pice of pine or a leather mallet and tap the frame against it downwards so the plate walks it self out of the frame. when you put it back, be careful to fit it in square so you don't shear the edges and bugger the blueing.
 
TDC said:
I was reluctant to post because of my distaste for wheel guns and the ribbing I would get. It was cheap, its entertaining and it has proven itself to be a temper-mental beast.

The cylinder rod from what I can tell has not backed off. The cylinder release(without the button as it is removed) will not move in either direction.

TDC
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Hee..I have been a Glock hater but I have a Glock. Every gun design has their own good and bad, some fit you but some won't. Wheel gun is so much fun to shoot and good for you to step outside your boundary.

Trigun
 
It is not too bad to sort out. It is fairly straight forward but you have to pay attention to how the parts interact and they can be a ##### to keep in place to reinstall the sideplate. The model 10 is a good piece of kit.PM me if you need any details on parts and I'll try to get the info from my book. I just put my recently purchased 4505 back together and sorted out my Taurus that had the cylinder release fail at the range and both are now in a serviceable state.
 
TDC you are going to have to admit that because you are a twit when it comes to gunsmithing doesn't in iteself make the Model 10 a bad piece of kit. I have to ask why you wanted to take the side plate off in the first place. If it makes you feel any better I did a similar thing with my Shadow and ended up sending the gun off to Gunnar along with $100.

Take Care

Bob
ps I didn't have a good reason to take my Shadow apart either.
 
Canuck44 said:
TDC you are going to have to admit that because you are a twit when it comes to gunsmithing doesn't in iteself make the Model 10 a bad piece of kit. I have to ask why you wanted to take the side plate off in the first place. If it makes you feel any better I did a similar thing with my Shadow and ended up sending the gun off to Gunnar along with $100.

Take Care

Bob
ps I didn't have a good reason to take my Shadow apart either.
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Hey Bob you may not know all Glock guy enjoy to count how many parts the other guns have to compare with glock:D

Trigun
 
Canuck44 said:
TDC you are going to have to admit that because you are a twit when it comes to gunsmithing doesn't in iteself make the Model 10 a bad piece of kit. I have to ask why you wanted to take the side plate off in the first place. If it makes you feel any better I did a similar thing with my Shadow and ended up sending the gun off to Gunnar along with $100.

Take Care

Bob
ps I didn't have a good reason to take my Shadow apart either.
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Trigun said:
Hey Bob you may not know all Glock guy enjoy to count how many parts the other guns have to compare with glock:D

Trigun
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Very funny Trigun. I already know the model 10 has far more parts than a Glock. Honestly I wanted to remove the side plate to both see the inner workings and clean it. From my best guess/research it is a victory series model 10 and it looked to be untouched with regards to side plate removal.

TDC
 
Like my wife always says to me....

You had to F..CK with it until you broke it... Didn't you....

Response.... Hmmm..Should have been a piece of cake.. Guess; I won't try this again!

Don't panic... re-think your steps

The answer is out there! The solution will be easier than you can imagine.
 
I only buy guns that I personally know people who are factory trained armorers on those guns. This is kind of limiting though (Glock, S&W, 1911, Remington 870), but not a bad list.

When I screw it up, I have someone local to call!
 
I'm not overly concerned, for $250 I could really care less if I wreck it, but it would be nice to get a few hundred rounds out of it before then.

TDC
 
TDC said:
I'm not overly concerned, for $250 I could really care less if I wreck it, but it would be nice to get a few hundred rounds out of it before then.

TDC
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Geezzz $250 is one hell of a deal, I wish I can come across something like this. Anyhow good luck to have it fix.

Trigun
 
TDC, you'd better not bugger up that po' lil' 10! ! ! !

If you got the side plate half off and then closed it you may have kicked something out of place. But for the life of me I can't think of what it could be that would still allow the side plate to go back into place if it was out of kilter.

In any event study this thread on the dis' and assembly of the Model 10;
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=397027

Hint, a wooden popsicle stick or slightly thicker sized piece of hardwood makes a great pry bar for easing the side plate out of position. Non marring but very persuasive.

Shooting my Model 10, as with my other two K frame S&W's, is almost a religious experience. It's well worth treating your gun well and getting it back into proper condition
 
It is a good idea not to pry sideplates out. Even if non marring tools, the edges can be damaged as they lever against each other. Try tapping the frame with the grips removed with a piece of wood after the screws are removed. Inertia can start the sideplate out.
 
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