CZ 75B suggestions

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wherermykeys

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I just got a CZ 75 and I'll be waiting awhile for my LTATT so in the meantime, I wanted to get a little work done to it.

Has anyone had experience with putting the SA only trigger on it? I really have no use for the DA/SA as I can't stand the DA pull on it and I really see no use as I'll just be shooting paper with it at the range.

At the same time, I was going to throw the 13# mainspring on and take out the firing pin block.

Anything else I should do while it's at the gunsmith?

Oh, and any suggestions for a good gunsmith that knows CZs in the GTA?
 
gunsmiths? why? you can replace the #13 spring yourself. I'd leave it DA/SA after first shot it's SA anyways and if you rack the slide to open the action it's already in SA mode ;)
 
wherermykeys said:
I just got a CZ 75 and I'll be waiting awhile for my LTATT so in the meantime, I wanted to get a little work done to it.

Has anyone had experience with putting the SA only trigger on it? I really have no use for the DA/SA as I can't stand the DA pull on it and I really see no use as I'll just be shooting paper with it at the range.

At the same time, I was going to throw the 13# mainspring on and take out the firing pin block.

Anything else I should do while it's at the gunsmith?

Oh, and any suggestions for a good gunsmith that knows CZs in the GTA?
Click to expand...

Easy to install the 13 spring - google will show you how to pics.

As for s/a trigger you can do that yourself easily by the trigger set screw - when set at maximum for least overtravel - the d/a no longer works because the trigger wont move far enough back to bring the hammer far enough back to reach the sear break.
The only reason to lose the d/a capability is to maximize the s/a trigger feel to almost zero overtravel and leave producution class IPSC.
swingerlh.gif
 
If you dont have a set screw in the trigger (like a cz shadow) you can buy a cz single action trigger for it - a pain to put in cause you lose the staking on the trigger mounting pin when you remove the pin to remove the old trigger.
swingerlh.gif
 
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I wanted to get some polishing and stuff done and while I'm OK with basic stuff like replacing springs, I don't really want to get into filing and grinding stuff. I meant, while the gun was at the smith's I might as well throw in the springs and trigger.

i don't have the set screw to adjust travel on my trigger. I was just wondering if just installing the SA trigger will reduce the travel and reset of the trigger.
 
I would change out the stock hammer for the competition hammer and leave the double action trigger alone. This will give you the most improvement in trigger pull for your money. I would be hesitant to go below 15 lb for the mainspring, as you may get occasional light strikes with some primers.

I installed a trigger with an overtravel screw in my CZ 75B and I find that that it can only be turned in so far before I start getting light strikes due to the half #### notch dragging on the bottom of the sear as the hammer falls. This is with a stock hammer reworked to eliminate "camming" common in these guns (the sear having to push the hammer back as the trigger is pulled). Turning in the screw far enough to disable double action would also keep the gun from working reliably in single action.

I'm not sure, but the overtravel stop might be more useful when used in conjunction with the competition hammer.
 
I would leave the DA/SA alone for sure. I guess it depends on what you want to do with the gun. If IDPA you can't remove the FPB to be legal for that sport and turning into a SA only gun takes you out of IPSC PRoduction and IDPA SSP. The gun is very competitive in SSP division.

Replacing the hammer with a Competition Hammer will improve trigger pull. A 15# mainspring will reduce the trigger pull as well.

Take Care

Bob
 
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A #13 mainspring is being used by many competition shooters and found not to have light primer strikes even with the hardest primers. The spring significantly reduces trigger pull weight.

As far as the overtravel screw adjustment in the CZ Shadow -
I have set it to stop the d/a and minimize overtravel to the absolute limit before the trigger doesnt move back enough to break the sear -

I have had NO light primer strikes with varied 9mm ammo. - commercial and reloads.

This forum has many different individuals with different experiences and different opinions - some good some bad.

The bottom line - test it for yourself then make up your mind.

If you contact Roger Katanko at Dark Int'l. he has much experience in all aspects of CZ triggers and has installed many S/A only triggers for competitors who shoot C/Z's.

swingerlh.gif
 
I wonder if the models with a trigger stop have different hammer geometry from the ones that don't come with one.
 
Get a competition hammer and sear take it to Rodger get him to convert it to SA and do a trigger job.He did my cz 85 combat made a huge difference.
 
Before you convert it I'd suggest looking into IPSC and IDPA in your area. Shooting in these sort of matches is great fun and something I would encourage you to at least try out.

If I were only able to shoot holes in paper I'd have never gotten into the shooting sport. It was the lure of IPSC that got me into it. And now that I'm here it's IPSC, hopefully some IDPA this season, Cowboy action and our club's monthly Speed Steel matches that keep me enthused. Shooting for accuracy in open time is OK but shooting decently accurately AND at speed really gets the adrenaline flowing.
 
OK, thanks guys. I think I'll just do the comp hammer, springs and a trigger job for now. I wasn't even thinking that it would exclude me from some classes in IDPA. It is something that i want to try later on.
 
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