Archery marksmenship
- Thread starter =(M-1)=
- Start date
If you want to save a bit of cash at first, get a canvas bag like an old potato sac, or a cheap princess auto tarp. Put a bunch of old t-shirts in it. you can safely shoot that with field points in your basement. when you start drilling the same spot a few shots, just fluff it up again, and you are good to go.
The best exercise you can ever do for muscle memory is shooting what we call blank bale. Put that target about the height of your arrow. Stand about 4 feet from it, so that the arrow is clearly off the bow before it hits the target butt (with no target on it). Draw back, anchor, ensure you will hit the butt, then close your eyes. Execute the shot with the intent of getting a good smooth release. Repeat many many many many times. You should have days where you shoot nothing but blank bale. 50-100 shots. Your release will become second nature so that when you DO open your eyes and add the complication of aiming, you wont even consciously pay attention to the release.
Depending on the type of release you use, if it is a trigger, then make sure you are squeezing the trigger so it "breaks" unexpectedly. If you are using a back tension release, make sure you are shooting it properly. Most shooters out there using a back tension release are cheating it, and hold it in such a way that the physiology of your body does not work with the release. Alternatively, you can try shooting the trigger release with back tension, but that can be tough.
The best exercise you can ever do for muscle memory is shooting what we call blank bale. Put that target about the height of your arrow. Stand about 4 feet from it, so that the arrow is clearly off the bow before it hits the target butt (with no target on it). Draw back, anchor, ensure you will hit the butt, then close your eyes. Execute the shot with the intent of getting a good smooth release. Repeat many many many many times. You should have days where you shoot nothing but blank bale. 50-100 shots. Your release will become second nature so that when you DO open your eyes and add the complication of aiming, you wont even consciously pay attention to the release.
Depending on the type of release you use, if it is a trigger, then make sure you are squeezing the trigger so it "breaks" unexpectedly. If you are using a back tension release, make sure you are shooting it properly. Most shooters out there using a back tension release are cheating it, and hold it in such a way that the physiology of your body does not work with the release. Alternatively, you can try shooting the trigger release with back tension, but that can be tough.
Bow hunting is anything but simple.
It is easy to shoot 40 yard paper targets on level ground, but try doing it in the bush and you will be shocked at how difficult it is.
Then there is the dynamic of shooting uphill or downhill, shooting off camber, range estimation, bow tuning, broadhead tuning, fingers or release?
When I bow hunted I shot at least 3 times a week and I always placed in the top ten at 3D shoots in BC. Since I don't have the time to shoot I don't bow hunt any more...If that tells you anything?
It is easy to shoot 40 yard paper targets on level ground, but try doing it in the bush and you will be shocked at how difficult it is.
Then there is the dynamic of shooting uphill or downhill, shooting off camber, range estimation, bow tuning, broadhead tuning, fingers or release?
When I bow hunted I shot at least 3 times a week and I always placed in the top ten at 3D shoots in BC. Since I don't have the time to shoot I don't bow hunt any more...If that tells you anything?
Yeah, bows can be pretty accurate. When we shoot FITA indoor, we generally shoot at 18 meters, at a 10 the size of a dime. At 90 meters, the 10 is roughly the size of a softball.
3D adds fun to the mix. Unknown yardage (you have to estimate) at life sized foam animals, and better have decent binos. There are divisions for every type of equipment right from what we call "Hunter class" (the most equipment restricted class) up to "Bowhunter Open" (means shoot anything you like, scopes, moveable sights.
If you have bought your gear, and you want some really good practice, try going to what is called a "FITA Field" event. The targets are all at known distances, yet you will be shooting uphill or down. It REALLY shows the effects of incline on your shots, and is VERY fun.
If you need any tips tuning your bow, feel free to PM me. Glad to help out if I can.
3D adds fun to the mix. Unknown yardage (you have to estimate) at life sized foam animals, and better have decent binos. There are divisions for every type of equipment right from what we call "Hunter class" (the most equipment restricted class) up to "Bowhunter Open" (means shoot anything you like, scopes, moveable sights.
If you have bought your gear, and you want some really good practice, try going to what is called a "FITA Field" event. The targets are all at known distances, yet you will be shooting uphill or down. It REALLY shows the effects of incline on your shots, and is VERY fun.
If you need any tips tuning your bow, feel free to PM me. Glad to help out if I can.
Thankyou, I probily will, that is if I cant find someone local to give me pointers. But I probibly will anyway.
Now in reguards to shooting up and down hill. Is is anything like extended rande rifle marksmenship? "Always aim low, no matter if your shooting up or down?" I would think one projectile is the same as another but I could be wrong.
Thanks everyone for your addisional helpful tips. I dont have my bow yet, I'm inbetween jobs right now, but I'm hoping I'll be getting a bow soon here. I dont want to by just any piece of crap, I want a decent but affordable one, a U.S customs officer suggested I think it was a new Matthew Z-7. is anyone familiar with that one?
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Don't forget to look at e-bay - if from the States, use USPS for shipment.
I bought mine there (around $300).... a new Hoyt Avenger for halve of what I had to pay in Canada. Just make sure you first go to an archery shop to check what your comfortable draw weight should be, etc.
Also, don't forget to look here on GN to buy a used one. I see full packages being offered from time to time at very reasonable price. You will usually find them in either the Exchange of Hunting and Sporting Arms or in the Exchange of all Other Stuff.
Good luck!
Duke1
I bought mine there (around $300).... a new Hoyt Avenger for halve of what I had to pay in Canada. Just make sure you first go to an archery shop to check what your comfortable draw weight should be, etc.
Also, don't forget to look here on GN to buy a used one. I see full packages being offered from time to time at very reasonable price. You will usually find them in either the Exchange of Hunting and Sporting Arms or in the Exchange of all Other Stuff.
Good luck!
Duke1
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Like I mentioned earlier... don't get caught up in the "this one is better than that one" arguement.
When it comes to bows, the first thing I learned was that you need to find the bow that best fits your body. The Mathews might, but a Martin might fit a bit better and a PSE might be better yet.
The best thing that you can do for yourself is to take the time try a lot of different bows before purchasing. If the shop won't let you try one... move on to another shop.
When it comes to bows, the first thing I learned was that you need to find the bow that best fits your body. The Mathews might, but a Martin might fit a bit better and a PSE might be better yet.
The best thing that you can do for yourself is to take the time try a lot of different bows before purchasing. If the shop won't let you try one... move on to another shop.
Don't forget shootability. You will want something with a brace height in the 7"+ area and if your draw length is over 28" a 34" axle to axle makes for forgiveness. I would personally recommend looking at the PSE Bow Madness, The Bowtech Guardian 2007 (you can get them in great shape for 350 USD right now), the Diamond Iceman, the Hoyt Alphamax 35 and the APA Viper. Most of these can be found second hand for a song and are up to date easy shooting bows.
If you don't want to do all the many hours of practice necessary to become a deadly shot with a compound bow , or especially a recurve bow , just buy a quality cross-bow.
Once you get the sighting system dialed in you should be good to go .
A very good, and cheap, target system uses a large(or a couple of) plastic mesh grain sacks loosely stuffed with soft clothing (no buttons or zippers) .Paint or pin on a contasting spot . Should be able to pull out target arrows/bolts with just two fingers
Once you get the sighting system dialed in you should be good to go .
A very good, and cheap, target system uses a large(or a couple of) plastic mesh grain sacks loosely stuffed with soft clothing (no buttons or zippers) .Paint or pin on a contasting spot . Should be able to pull out target arrows/bolts with just two fingers
treebutcher
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I will drop my 2c worth. I will shoot a lot with my bow up untill the month before hunting season. Once I'm getting close I try not to shoot any more than a few arrows a day. I can shoot in my back yard so I walk around and shoot at funny angles unknown distances. If you plan to stand hunt try shooting while sitting down it is different but not hard. I will try to get some elevation like setting my stand up on the clothesline pole.
Spring and fall clean up are great times to get a back stop. Old swing sets and a few layers of carpet are great for stoping arrows. The key is to have the carpet free hang so it asorbs the shock from the arrow. For a low buck target I use a feed bag stuffed with old shrink wrap (stuff pallets are wraped in) or plastic bags.
If you buy a used bow look at the limbs if you see cracks or cuts walk away. Also factor in a bow string (I change mine every 2 years) I would change the string on a used bow as soon as I bought it. A bow string snapping at full draw sucks big time and can twist your limbs.
Archery is a lot of fun, give it a try.
Spring and fall clean up are great times to get a back stop. Old swing sets and a few layers of carpet are great for stoping arrows. The key is to have the carpet free hang so it asorbs the shock from the arrow. For a low buck target I use a feed bag stuffed with old shrink wrap (stuff pallets are wraped in) or plastic bags.
If you buy a used bow look at the limbs if you see cracks or cuts walk away. Also factor in a bow string (I change mine every 2 years) I would change the string on a used bow as soon as I bought it. A bow string snapping at full draw sucks big time and can twist your limbs.
Archery is a lot of fun, give it a try.
I didnt know you could buy used off of CGN, I'll have to check this out.
Yes, I recall you saying that, I'm new to this so I tend to ask questions to which I already have the answer. Sorry. I'm just trying to learn all I can. thanks
you may have to translate that into NOOB for me.
That was the Plan B that I suspected i was going to resort to, that is until the good folks of CGN got me realizing what a fun and artful skill bow shooting can be, and that its not as hard to learn as it was the last time I tried back when I was a kid, with an crappy bow and no helpful info to go off of at all .
I foresee this knowledge becoming useful in my near future. thanks.
I don't agree with the practice, practice, practice preaching at all. I go to the club every once in a while, and shoot about once a week(warm months), and I score every bit as well as most of the shooters at the club. The biggest thing to work on is judging yardage IMO.
As someone said a 7'' brace height is a good start bow, and the longer it is axle to axle the better for forgiveness.
Don't let the speed bug get you! The fastest bows aren't the easiest to shoot consistant. I learnd that the hard way, and about five bows later I figured it out! I am shooting an Elite XLR right now, and it suites me very well.
As someone said a 7'' brace height is a good start bow, and the longer it is axle to axle the better for forgiveness.
Don't let the speed bug get you! The fastest bows aren't the easiest to shoot consistant. I learnd that the hard way, and about five bows later I figured it out! I am shooting an Elite XLR right now, and it suites me very well.
Ask any top shooter how many times a week he shoots....It wont be once.
You can indeed roboticly fling too many arrows, but you can't shoot too many quality arrows.
Like rifle hunters most guys that pick up a bow never get very good at all.
The average guy at an archery club has far below average skills and their archery skills are a poor yardstick to judge yourself against.
If my skill were that low I would refuse to allow myself to hunt.
I am an archer with average God given ability, but I take the time and put in the effort to make the best of what I have...That is the difference.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I kind of agree with Captonion to a degree and here are my reasons:
If I've shot my compound bow enough to become comfortable to place my arrow in a deer's vitals at 20-30 yards, then I shoot enough only to maintain this level of marksmanship and I keep my own personal maximum range in mind at all times.
I am not a 3D shooter, and my only archery goal is to put one deer into the freezer for the season.
That said, when I go to the rifle/pistol range in the summer months, my bow/release/rinehart target often are brought along as well, with this goal in mind.
I think about 20-25 archery practice sessions, in the summer months, prepare me for the hunting season.
If I've shot my compound bow enough to become comfortable to place my arrow in a deer's vitals at 20-30 yards, then I shoot enough only to maintain this level of marksmanship and I keep my own personal maximum range in mind at all times.
I am not a 3D shooter, and my only archery goal is to put one deer into the freezer for the season.
That said, when I go to the rifle/pistol range in the summer months, my bow/release/rinehart target often are brought along as well, with this goal in mind.
I think about 20-25 archery practice sessions, in the summer months, prepare me for the hunting season.
Brace height in rough noobonian is the distance between the back of the grip and the string. The more space the more forgiveness. The less space the faster the arrow flies. Axle to axle; well the roundish thingy on eack end of the limb thingy has a stick thingy through it. Its called an axle just like the one between the round thingys on your car. The distance between them is the "axle to axle" or "ATA" length.
More is better within reason. I personally wouldn't go with a bow with less than 32" axle to axle for my first one.
More is better within reason. I personally wouldn't go with a bow with less than 32" axle to axle for my first one.
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
My way of thinking calls for a bit of both.
I've been loosing arrows since I was a small child.
When I started hunting deer with a compound bow I practiced fanatically until I could hit a cigarette pack on a bale at 70yds 2 out of 3 and a paper plate every time.
I shot literally thousands of arrows,many when I shouldn't have(hindsight) because of fatigue.
When I was comfortable and consistent I began practicing less,concentrating on quality of practice rather than quantity of practice.That's when I started running before the shot to up my heart rate etc.
Once you are proficient with your bow it becomes a matter of maintaining your proficiency with your practice imo.
I regularly take my 3D target and walk out back,place my target at a random yardage and climb up onto my platform stand.I have made it habit to sink the first arrow into the vitals every time.Often it is the only arrow I shoot.I like to be random about weather,clothing and time of day,the variables that stay variable.
The things that stay consistent are my form,equipment and mind set or concentration level.
I believe a new archer needs to shoot many arrows to get comfortable and proficient.
I believe a seasoned archer needs to shoot as many arrows as needed to stay that way.
I've been loosing arrows since I was a small child.
When I started hunting deer with a compound bow I practiced fanatically until I could hit a cigarette pack on a bale at 70yds 2 out of 3 and a paper plate every time.
I shot literally thousands of arrows,many when I shouldn't have(hindsight) because of fatigue.
When I was comfortable and consistent I began practicing less,concentrating on quality of practice rather than quantity of practice.That's when I started running before the shot to up my heart rate etc.
Once you are proficient with your bow it becomes a matter of maintaining your proficiency with your practice imo.
I regularly take my 3D target and walk out back,place my target at a random yardage and climb up onto my platform stand.I have made it habit to sink the first arrow into the vitals every time.Often it is the only arrow I shoot.I like to be random about weather,clothing and time of day,the variables that stay variable.
The things that stay consistent are my form,equipment and mind set or concentration level.
I believe a new archer needs to shoot many arrows to get comfortable and proficient.
I believe a seasoned archer needs to shoot as many arrows as needed to stay that way.
Some good info in this thread. Fatigue - when you are feeling fatigued, stop. When you find you are getting "lazy" with your bow arm, and the bow seems to drop as the shot breaks, that is a sign it is time to stop.
When you start shooting, it is tempting to shoot a million arrows a day cause it's fun and free, basically. Ease into it. You will be using muscles you had no clue were there.
The bow: keep the draw weight reasonable, some "farmboy" types that throw bales around all day can draw a 90 pound bow, all day, but when drawing, if you have to point it at the sky, it's too heavy.
Modern compound bows store so much energy and are so efficient that a 50 pound bow of today does what an 80 pound bow of 20 years ago did.
The most common weight of bow sold now is a 60#. Then again, as you become part of the weapon when you draw it back, you may find yourself steadiest with more weight.
Get a set of custom strings. If they are pre-made, in a package on a shelf, they are not custom regardless what the name may say. This way, the servings will be appropriate for the wheels on that bow, and they will be pre-stretched. The string and cables are the absolute most important part of the bow. When you draw the bow, you feel like you are pulling about 60# or so, but the limbs are under about 5 times that much stress, and the string and cables are what hold it all together. I used to stretch mine, well, enough to bend a 1/2" x 3" plate of steel about 3/8 inch over 5 inches. This removes any creep from the material. I don't make strings anymore, but I can point you to the best guy around.
Longer axle to axle bows resist canting. Longer brace heights, mean the arrow is in contact with the string for less time, therefore torquing the bow will theoretically have less effect. Those two factors among a few others are what make a bow more "forgiving" to shoot, but they are not everything. One of the bows that I shot best was a Bowtech black knight 2. A Speed bow from 2002 with a really short brace.
Get good practice. Set up a target, 3D or otherwise, and once you have all your sight marks, or pins set up depending on your sight, pick a shot, estimate the yardage, make your shot, the range it whether you nailed it or not. 3D instills some horrible form and terrible habits. Think: you can be off on your range by 10 yards, and flinch when the shot goes, but still "NAIL IT"...... and a lot of guys do....
Make every shot a learning experience, whether it was a success or not.
When you start shooting, it is tempting to shoot a million arrows a day cause it's fun and free, basically. Ease into it. You will be using muscles you had no clue were there.
The bow: keep the draw weight reasonable, some "farmboy" types that throw bales around all day can draw a 90 pound bow, all day, but when drawing, if you have to point it at the sky, it's too heavy.
Modern compound bows store so much energy and are so efficient that a 50 pound bow of today does what an 80 pound bow of 20 years ago did.
The most common weight of bow sold now is a 60#. Then again, as you become part of the weapon when you draw it back, you may find yourself steadiest with more weight.
Get a set of custom strings. If they are pre-made, in a package on a shelf, they are not custom regardless what the name may say. This way, the servings will be appropriate for the wheels on that bow, and they will be pre-stretched. The string and cables are the absolute most important part of the bow. When you draw the bow, you feel like you are pulling about 60# or so, but the limbs are under about 5 times that much stress, and the string and cables are what hold it all together. I used to stretch mine, well, enough to bend a 1/2" x 3" plate of steel about 3/8 inch over 5 inches. This removes any creep from the material. I don't make strings anymore, but I can point you to the best guy around.
Longer axle to axle bows resist canting. Longer brace heights, mean the arrow is in contact with the string for less time, therefore torquing the bow will theoretically have less effect. Those two factors among a few others are what make a bow more "forgiving" to shoot, but they are not everything. One of the bows that I shot best was a Bowtech black knight 2. A Speed bow from 2002 with a really short brace.
Get good practice. Set up a target, 3D or otherwise, and once you have all your sight marks, or pins set up depending on your sight, pick a shot, estimate the yardage, make your shot, the range it whether you nailed it or not. 3D instills some horrible form and terrible habits. Think: you can be off on your range by 10 yards, and flinch when the shot goes, but still "NAIL IT"...... and a lot of guys do....
Make every shot a learning experience, whether it was a success or not.
