Need some advice.

ENIGMATIC1

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Figured the precision forum would be the place to ask.

Theoretically, if a .308 was shooting 2 inches high and 2 inches left at 100 yards, and you turned the scope 45 degrees counter clockwise looking at the rifle from the rear, where would you expect the round to end up?

Mine hit approx 2 inches high, and 6-8 inches right...
 
The scope's axis is different from the bore's axis. If you rotated the whole gun around the bore axis, maybe, but remember that you are not simply moving crosshairs.

The only way to know for sure is to maintain your rifle's point of aim and see if rotating it lines it up with the POI.

....have I just been sucked in by another troll?
 
Is this the same poster that wanted to put the scope on backwards to simulate long range shooting? Or maybe the guy that wanted to glue two scopes together for more magnification?
 
What would be the purpose of turning the scope?

Well, I got a .308, threw some burris signature z rings onto it, threw some glass on top, and shot it at 100 and it was way out. Like a couple feet low. Maybe more.

Good thing I had those z rings, because adding the +10 thou insert to the back ring, and the -10 thou insert to the front ring brought it to a zeroable poi.

However the point of buying the Z rings was so that I could do some longer range playing as well as closer range stuff, with just changing the inserts...

The scope's axis is different from the bore's axis. If you rotated the whole gun around the bore axis, maybe, but remember that you are not simply moving crosshairs.

The only way to know for sure is to maintain your rifle's point of aim and see if rotating it lines it up with the POI.

....have I just been sucked in by another troll?

Nope. The part that I bolded there though sounds brilliant, and something that I may end up trying to do yet.

I guess, what I am trying to figure out, is if there is a problem with the rifle, or with the glass, and taking the easiest route of figuring that out.. Which I thought was turning the scope on the rings :)
 
Is this the same poster that wanted to put the scope on backwards to simulate long range shooting? Or maybe the guy that wanted to glue two scopes together for more magnification?

Nope, I'm not.

If I wanted more magnification, I'd crank up the magnification.

If I wanted to simulate long range shooting I would shoot one of my .22LR's at 200 yards.
 
The scope's axis is different from the bore's axis. If you rotated the whole gun around the bore axis, maybe, but remember that you are not simply moving crosshairs.

I am thinking about this more, and in my mind, the POA should stay the same at the first zero regardless of rotating the scope.. but maybe I am missing something..

I am thinking about it very simply, comparing the line of sight to a laser beam.

Even if that laser beam were rotated, if it stays on the same axis, it should be in the same spot...
 
Sounds as if you might have been better off to use the non-Zee Signature rings. Then you have lots of windage built into the rear scope base, and can use the eccentric inserts for elevation.
 
Just yesterday I installed Burris Z rings on my 40X with a Weaver T36.
With the zero inserts I was 10" high and 2.5-3" left mat 50 yards. The 20's would appear to be the corrent starting point as I needed 20 moa.
With the inserts in 20's in the front rings, I was 20" high and 6 inches left.
I switched the inserts to the rear rings, and that put me close enough that the scope could now be adjusted for 50 yards.
I read the instructions to indicate the 20= and the 20- were to be used together rather than one in the front ring and the other in the rear ring versus one being in the front and the other in the rear.
This was a first time experience with Z rings and inserts.
 
Sounds as if you might have been better off to use the non-Zee Signature rings. Then you have lots of windage built into the rear scope base, and can use the eccentric inserts for elevation.

Hmmm, I went with the 30MM Zee rings because they looked more sturdy, and I think those were the only ones that fit a picatinny rail.

Having said that adjustable windage in the rear ring could be a very nice feature...

Just yesterday I installed Burris Z rings on my 40X with a Weaver T36.
With the zero inserts I was 10" high and 2.5-3" left mat 50 yards. The 20's would appear to be the corrent starting point as I needed 20 moa.
With the inserts in 20's in the front rings, I was 20" high and 6 inches left.
I switched the inserts to the rear rings, and that put me close enough that the scope could now be adjusted for 50 yards.
I read the instructions to indicate the 20= and the 20- were to be used together rather than one in the front ring and the other in the rear ring versus one being in the front and the other in the rear.
This was a first time experience with Z rings and inserts.

Hmmm, you know I suppose I could just get a package of inserts from them.. and get the +20/-20 combo.

Yea, you are supposed to use a + and a - in the same ring. So a +20 in the bottom half of the ring, and then a -20 in the top half of the ring. You can also use them to correct the side to side positioning of the scope if your scope holes aren't centered buy putting the inserts sideways in the ring, +20 on the right of a ring, and -20 on the left for example.

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I suppose my main question is if there is something wrong with my scope/mount/rifle, because I have to add, according to burris, "20 MOA", to zero my rifle at 100 yards. According to my calculations i'm only adding 10ish MOA.

Without those inserts, I'd be almost out of elevation in my scope...
 
I am thinking about this more, and in my mind, the POA should stay the same at the first zero regardless of rotating the scope.. but maybe I am missing something..

The rings are aligned in one direction, the outside of the scope body is aligned with the rings, the internal optics are not necessarily aligned with the outside of the scope, and the reticule is not necessarily aligned with the scope body...

I don't understand why anything ever would stay at zero when the scope is rotated.

Maybe I am missing something...
 
Just a question.... Did you zero the scope before you tried it? Sounds a bit weird to be that far off?

Zero the scope before I tried it? What do you mean.?

Yea for it to be a couple feet out sounds weird to me as well.

The rings are aligned in one direction, the outside of the scope body is aligned with the rings, the internal optics are not necessarily aligned with the outside of the scope, and the reticule is not necessarily aligned with the scope body...

I don't understand why anything ever would stay at zero when the scope is rotated.

Maybe I am missing something...

Ah yea, alright more variables at play then what I was thinking. Is there any way of simply testing where the issue is?

Or should I just start looking for another 30MM tube that I can borrow and test?

ps. Thanks for all the replies so far guys.
 
Need some advice.
Figured the precision forum would be the place to ask.

Theoretically, if a .308 was shooting 2 inches high and 2 inches left at 100 yards, and you turned the scope 45 degrees counter clockwise looking at the rifle from the rear, where would you expect the round to end up?

Mine hit approx 2 inches high, and 6-8 inches right...

The line of sight will almost never be straight. What do you think the elevation and windage adjustments do? They bend the line of sight. There will always be more bending on the vertical which accounts for the 6-8" swing-over when you rotated the scope.
 
I always make sure my scope is zero'd before I put it on. Either new or used. Start counting turns or clicks to get the elevation and the windage back to the middle of each.
Start fresh and remount the scope. Align it the best you can. Nothing is worse than looking through a scope that is not aligned. Use a level if you have to.
 
I always make sure my scope is zero'd before I put it on. Either new or used. Start counting turns or clicks to get the elevation and the windage back to the middle of each.
Start fresh and remount the scope. Align it the best you can. Nothing is worse than looking through a scope that is not aligned. Use a level if you have to.

Hmmm.

I will give that a try. Not going to lie, I have never pushed a scope to the edge of it's clicks. What happens? Wheel just stops turning??
 
Go from one to the other counting turns and then back half the amount and that should get you closer to centre for both. Then align it and shoot. Still way off something is wrong. What kind of scope are we talking about? The cross hairs shot out?
 
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