Moose hunting

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cant believe this argument has gone on so long
like i said before my family has killed over a 100 moose
using a 30-06 7mm rm and 300 wm
if you actually believe a 30-30 is better than these cals for moose and you sugest it over the previous cals im speachless have thousands of bulls bin taken with 30-30 yes
is it the best gun
NO no and anouther no
tast season my brother and i shot two moose in 35 min i called mine to 35 yard wanted to same the meat so i lung shot him went 150 yards like usual with a lung shot not 4 steps like a previous post said.
my brother shot his 48in bull he called him in to 35 yards hit him behind the shoulder with a 300 win mag he took 10 yards in the bush and stood up untill he has shot 3 more time in the neck from 15 yards
dont tell me their not ***** tough animals
 
Thats my old grandpappy in the center, all he ever used in his lifetime was an old pump action Remington in 30 Rem, always seemed to put meat on the table for such a slow bullet. Must have had to put 4 or 5 rounds into it to bring it down though huh?

moose%20036.jpg
 
again best gun noooo
can they work yesssss

how do you post pics on this site
i have a couple of the antlers from last season i want to put up
 
Well, back from work and read through the rest of this thread...Damn near P*ssed myself laughing....
Maybe this year I will take the .308 with me.
 
ongaro said:
again best gun noooo
can they work yesssss

how do you post pics on this site
i have a couple of the antlers from last season i want to put up
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Totally agree, so why did this thread go 8 pages then? I believe my first post in this thread stated exactly what you just said.

On the pics, if you go to the photo's forum they have a sticky at the top of the page with instructions on how to post pics.
 
ill try that
it keeps going because either people forgot what the topic was or they just like to argue
a1014.jpg
 
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Over 20 years ago I taught the firearm portion of Hunter Education for the local Fish and Game Association. Many questions were directed to which gun/firearm to choose for what hunting? and Who decided these rules?


Here's the Answer: For many many years there was no rules or guide lines. People hunted with the only firearms they had because they were hungry. During the Late 60s and 70s , a group of people who were veteran hunters and sportsman just like our Fathers and Grandfathers got together to determine how much power is the ethical amount for hunting, and how much power is not enough for hunting. It all comes down to Energy. Not the gun, not diameter of the bullet, and not the length of the barrel. Its energy and energy alone. Energy of a bullet is calculated using mass and velocity ( weight and speed).

From these fine Gentleman, came Alberta's Ethical hunting guidelines, and further from this became minimum requirements by Law. The following link is a photo of Firearms page 16, of The Alberta Conservation and Hunter Education training manual.

http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx194/fiddlesks/Misc shots/energy.jpg



I challenge YOU:


Rather than being emotional about what your grand daddy used to shoot elephants with, Look at the bottom of the page where it says Minimum, adequate, and Preferred.


Now go to here and look up YOUR bullet that you use for hunting. Look at the muzzle energy, the energy at 100 yards, and 200, 300, ect.

http://www.federalpremium.com/default.aspx


Minimum Hunting Energy should be out to 100 yards. Does your bullet do this?
 
HeavyT said:
Hey All, I'd really appreciate some feedback. Going to be moose hunting this year for the first time. In a previous thread I mentioned I have a mini 30 for deer, and have started researching the browning BAR for a large game rifle. That said, I am totally open to suggestions - bolt, semi, lever, whatever. What are some good options for large game, (in around the $1000 mark)?
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In ON you will be doing alot of shorter range shooting (less than 300yards and most likely 75-100 yards) and walking through thicker timber. A shorter, carbine rifle (pump or semi) would be handy and allow for follow up shots. There have been a couple solid suggestions so far, and the BAR that you were considering would be a fine choice among them. Not forgetting to leave some room to buy a decent scope and rings is important. If its your first gun, why not go with a Stevens 200 in .30-06 and a Busnell 3200 3-9x40 scope? Lots of room left over to buy ammo and GET OUT AND PRACTICE. To be honest, nothing special about that rig except its ability to get the job done- but I suspect alot of guys will back me that its a solid choice that will not let you down.

http://www.shootingtimes.com/longgun_reviews/stevens200_041106/

waderow said:
try shooting a big one... if you dont know, and dont get into the big bulls, you just dont understand. have fun with your little guys, and I will have fun with my brutes.
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waderow said:
sorry guys, but maybe for smaller bulls, calves, cows. The go down easy. Big monster bulls do not go down with a .300mag, let alone a 30-30.

And yes, it is dead after 1 shot, but I dont like my moose dead in the bush 1/2 mile away after I hit it.
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Ah, now I get it. It not a matter of 'dead' its all about it not moving. My suggestion if you are determined to not have to carry your big bull one inch more than nescessary is to:
A) spend range time to ensure shot placement
B) try shooting in the blue circle- it will result in a broken spine and stop all movement without wasting meat.

OP- I have no idea your hunting background but dead moose often run a hundred yards. I'm more of a 'green circle' kinda guy. I don't mind carrying the extra 100 yards that an animal with no lungs can run but can't abide the thought of intentionally wasting meat.

MooseVitals2.jpg
 
MadDog said:
Thats my old grandpappy in the center, all he ever used in his lifetime was an old pump action Remington in 30 Rem, always seemed to put meat on the table for such a slow bullet. Must have had to put 4 or 5 rounds into it to bring it down though huh?

moose%20036.jpg
Click to expand...

Imagine! Mad Dog's grandfather using a :eek: REMINGTON!
 
fiddler said:
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx194/fiddlesks/Misc shots/energy.jpg



I challenge YOU:


Rather than being emotional about what your grand daddy used to shoot elephants with, Look at the bottom of the page where it says Minimum, adequate, and Preferred.


Now go to here and look up YOUR bullet that you use for hunting. Look at the muzzle energy, the energy at 100 yards, and 200, 300, ect.

300 H&H,..not even at the muzzle does it have the preferred ft lbs for moose..

Basically, you need a 375 H& or larger

Not only does the 30/06 not have the preferred foot lbs for moose,...it doesn't even have the adequate(according to the chart) ft lbs at just 100 yrds

http://www.federalpremium.com/default.aspx


Minimum Hunting Energy should be out to 100 yards. Does your bullet do this?
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I find this quite interesting...

want to name the calibres with the preferred(according to the chart) 3500 ft/lbs at 100 yrds that are required for moose?

then name the ones that have it at 200 yrds...

300 WM isn't even capable at 100 yrds with many many many loads including factory Barnes TSX...Nos Part's...accubonds..

338 Federal doesn't even have it at the muzzle with TSX's , Nos Part's, etc etc etc

300 H&H,..not even at the muzzle does it have the preferred ft lbs for moose..

Not only does the 30/06 not have the preferred foot lbs for moose,...it doesn't even have the adequate(according to the chart) ft lbs at just 100 yrds

Basically, you need a 375 H& or larger and keep shots within 100 yrds,..or with exceptional bullets you may stretch a 200 yrd and be adequate, but not preferred.
 
fiddler said:
I challenge YOU:


Rather than being emotional about what your grand daddy used to shoot elephants with, Look at the bottom of the page where it says Minimum, adequate, and Preferred.


Now go to here and look up YOUR bullet that you use for hunting. Look at the muzzle energy, the energy at 100 yards, and 200, 300, ect.

http://www.federalpremium.com/default.aspx


Minimum Hunting Energy should be out to 100 yards. Does your bullet do this?
Click to expand...

Is that a general statement to the members here or are you pointing this all out to me in your big black letters? Doesn't look like I'm getting emotional, in fact I'm most likely the most unemotional person on this site next to Stormbringer. Look at my bullet? As pointed out, that would be my grandfathers bullet, I don't shoot Remingtons. Actually if you really must know I use a Savage 99 in 358 Win, I honestly hope it meets your Alberta ethical chart. I'm not a big chart person, more of a doer than a reader.

All in all, I really don't give a rats ass what anybody else uses.:)
 
gunrunner100 said:
Imagine! Mad Dog's grandfather using a :eek: REMINGTON!
Click to expand...

Been trying to track that gun down Chris, one of them second cousins twice removed somehow got it before my grandfather was even in the ground I think. Got an idea of where it is though, just gotta see if I can get it. I'd kinda like to take it moose hunting.....
 
fiddler said:
Rather than being emotional about what your grand daddy used to shoot elephants with, Look at the bottom of the page where it says Minimum, adequate, and Preferred.


Now go to here and look up YOUR bullet that you use for hunting. Look at the muzzle energy, the energy at 100 yards, and 200, 300, ect.

http://www.federalpremium.com/default.aspx


Minimum Hunting Energy should be out to 100 yards. Does your bullet do this?
Click to expand...

Using that method, the .45-70, 7mm-08, and .303br are below minimum at 100 yards. IMO energy does NOT equal killing power, it places too much emphasis on velocity. I wouldn't hesitate to shoot a BIG moose with any of those chamberings.
 
fiddler said:
I have a moose hanging in my workshop just about every year. There is no way I would use a 30-30 on a moose, or anything less than 180 grain. There are people who hypothesize about how easy they should be to hunt and kill, but for those of us who regularly hunt and kill, we use bigger guns with much more energy.

At minimum, I use 30.06 with 180 grain. Moose can be close, but you still need to have a round with at least 2200 foot pounds out to 100 yards. Its a big animal and needs a round with penetration.

You always hear about lucky shots, but you don't hear about how many moose run away with a wound because some cowboy has a small pea-shooter.
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Why do you use inadequate calibre's like 30 06 (inadequate by your chart that you referred us all too,..or was it just Maddog you directed to it)

In addition, if you taught a course on firearms....[***further comment edited out by NAA***]
 
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So HeavyT, are you still reading this?

You don't say whether you already have a moose-worthy rifle but you mention $1000 so I assume you are planning a purchase. If you are going to buy a rifle then I think we could agree that more energy is better than less as long as you can shoot it well.

How well do you like (and handle) recoil? Any chance you could develop a flinch after 30 rounds in one day?

If you reload or have access to reloads I would suggest the 45-70. Light loads to get some proficiency in August and as powerful as you can shoot well in September.
 
diemaco said:
Using that method, the .45-70, 7mm-08, and .303br are below minimum at 100 yards. IMO energy does NOT equal killing power, it places too much emphasis on velocity. I wouldn't hesitate to shoot a BIG moose with any of those chamberings.
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i'll add to your list ,

neither does the 6.5x55 .

the chart also does not take into acount things like balistic coeficient and sectional density .

it also does not take into account many of the new controlled expansion bullets out today that don't waste any energy expanding on the hide , but instead expand fully inside the animal transfering it's energy there instead .




i'd also like to add this pulled from the b.c hunting regs ;

ammunition to hunt bison must be constructed with
a 175 grain or larger bullet, which retains 2,712 joules
(2,000 ft lbs) or more energy at 100 m.

this is the ONLY animal that has a minimum energy required in b.c. , and it isn't that far above what a 30-30 puts out for power .
if killing any size of moose was as difficult as previous posters have mentioned there would be a foot note for bullproof moose * must use amour piercing 50 caliber rounds , not less that 750 grains or larger bullet weight ............*
 
One nice thing about that chart is that it qualifies my 30/30 to having enough juice for deer, out past 300 yrds... yeeehaw!!!:)


Back to The OP

any ideas yet for a rifle, narrowed it down any further...

I would not buy a 45/70 unless you tried one first,...in fact I would say that of all bigger recoil guns,...

try a bigger recoil and see if that is what you like..

I love big recoil, within 100 yrds. and as my occasional shooter..

A moderate to lighter recoiling gun is where it's at for me..

I am thoroughly enjoying the 7mm-08
 
just went to re measure to make shure was a few months ago oct 5 to be exact
40" that was mine my brothers was 46" ill send a pic of the tape if you want
we have never hunted for moose antlers
deer yes buy moose is meet only
first thing that comes out gets it
moose all taken in your back yard actually
fox creek
 
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