Stiffening A Savage Stock?

mmattockx

mmattockx

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My 12FV has the factory stock, which is less than fantastic in terms of how stiff the forearm is. I have pulled the stock off to have a look and I was just wondering if anybody has any pics or a thread detailing how they stiffened the forearm area?

Looking at it, it should be possible to just epoxy a couple of carbon tubes into the center channel. Is that a reasonable approach, or does somebody have a more sophisticated method?

Thanks,
Mark
 
I used two aluminum arrow shafts and some JB weld to stiffen my Steven 200. I took out some of the ribs so the shafts would fit. I then put down a layer of epoxy, placed the shafts in then covered them with the remaining epoxy. I plugged the ends of the shafts first to prevent the expoy from seeping in while it set. It is stiff enough to use shooting off a bipod, the barrel doesn’t touch.
 
mmattockx said:
My 12FV has the factory stock, which is less than fantastic in terms of how stiff the forearm is. I have pulled the stock off to have a look and I was just wondering if anybody has any pics or a thread detailing how they stiffened the forearm area?

Looking at it, it should be possible to just epoxy a couple of carbon tubes into the center channel. Is that a reasonable approach, or does somebody have a more sophisticated method?

Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

I'm curious as to how well your rifle shoots and if is not a good shooter are your trying to improve the accuracy by stiffenning the forend? The new Savaga Accu-stocks address this issue as they have a solid aluminum bar attached from the the bedding block foraward to the swivel studs. No stocks are available as of yet for sale as they are only available with the gun. Phil.
 
P of PDent said:
I'm curious as to how well your rifle shoots and if is not a good shooter are your trying to improve the accuracy by stiffenning the forend? The new Savaga Accu-stocks address this issue as they have a solid aluminum bar attached from the the bedding block foraward to the swivel studs. No stocks are available as of yet for sale as they are only available with the gun. Phil.
Click to expand...

So far load development has shown good accuracy, to the tune of sub 0.5MOA 3 shot groups, but I need more time with it to confirm that is the norm and refine the load more precisely. Our spring weather doesn't help in this regard, it's just too windy most days.

I just want the stock to be less flexible and flimsy feeling. I am not expecting any improvment in accuracy, just feel.

Mark
 
Ducimus said:
I used two aluminum arrow shafts and some JB weld to stiffen my Steven 200. I took out some of the ribs so the shafts would fit. I then put down a layer of epoxy, placed the shafts in then covered them with the remaining epoxy. I plugged the ends of the shafts first to prevent the expoy from seeping in while it set. It is stiff enough to use shooting off a bipod, the barrel doesn’t touch.
Click to expand...

This is similar to what I am thinking of. Did it make a noticeable improvement or a marginal one?

Mark
 
P of PDent said:
I'm curious as to how well your rifle shoots and if is not a good shooter are your trying to improve the accuracy by stiffening the forend?
Click to expand...

I had the same issue with my Stevens 200. The rifle's accuracy was fine, but if using a bi-pod or even a sling as a shooting aid it was very easy to flex the fore-stock enough to contact the barrel (obviously not desirable). After bedding in a 1/2 X 1/2 square aluminum tube with epoxy the result was much improved.
 
joe-boy said:
I had the same issue with my Stevens 200. The rifle's accuracy was fine, but if using a bi-pod or even a sling as a shooting aid it was very easy to flex the fore-stock enough to contact the barrel (obviously not desirable). After bedding in a 1/2 X 1/2 square aluminum tube with epoxy the result was much improved.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I am thinking, except in carbon, and the result I am looking for.

Thanks,
Mark
 
I used a pair of chain saw files, heated cherry red to take the brittleness out so they wouldn't break, then cleaned with brake cleaner before being epoxied in. The teeth in the files hold the epoxy better than anything else I can think of, and the stiffness is just right.
 
Look up a few posts and there is a build with pics.

You can also see my builds on my website.

Plywood, arrow shafts, light metal extrustions or anything light and rigid can be used

Clean well with aerosol brake cleaner before you start and get rid of the mold release. Grind up the surface and any quality epoxy will stick just fine.

Let us know how your build goes.

Jerry
 
mmattockx said:
This is similar to what I am thinking of. Did it make a noticeable improvement or a marginal one?

Mark
Click to expand...

The stock and barrel don't touch under any normal shooting conditions now. I can easily slide a business card along the barrel even when the butt is raised. I have to squeeze reasonablely hard with my hand at the end of the stock to get them to touch...and that is more pressure that normal shooting conditions....I'm please with the out come.
 
I would love to have the available time on my hands to make something better or just different with little investment other than my time. I used to do this quite a bit before I got into the "business" . Maybe when I retire a second time........Phil.
 
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