10mm reloading problem

IM_Lugger

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Today I tried to relaod for 10mm for the first time. I used .40/10mm Lee dies; aways used Lee dies before and never had a problem but not this time. :(After I adjusted the seating die and seated the bullet I could still push the bullet in. it wasn't crimed at all.

Does this have anything to do with the fact that its a .40 die? do I have to screw the die out bit?? or what is going on?
 
I am not sure what you have done, are you trying to crimp and seat at the same time? They are steps best done separately. I have had some loose rounds, they went off just fine. If it is taking significant pressure to move the bullet don't worry, if they go in with a touch then you have a problem. That isn't something that should be happening with new or gently used brass though. .40/10mm means nothing any 10mm die will process .40 without issue. I have sets from Lee and RCBS and can't tell the difference. Feel free to PM if you like, I have devoted most of my last 3 years of pistol shooting to 10mm.
 
without seeing your setup what i think you have done is set your seating die for length
(overall length
most taper crimp dies will shave the bullet if you seat and crimp in one step

I always make up a dummy round and save it for set up (it gets you close)

now that you need to do is back off the stem for length
turn die down farther to set up your crimp, measure against factory(should be 0.010 smaller at top of case(mouth) than at where the bottom of where the bullet is seated)
and then re set the length (to seat and crimp in one operation
 
now that you need to do is back off the stem for length
turn die down farther to set up your crimp, measure against factory(should be 0.010 smaller at top of case(mouth) than at where the bottom of where the bullet is seated)
and then re set the length (to seat and crimp in one operation

+1. The seating die has two adjustments. Moving the body of the die up and down affects how much crimp is applied, moving the inner seating piece affects the bullet seating depth. You must adjust for the two separately to remove the case flare and set your OAL.

Mark
 
I suggest buying a Lee 40 cal/10mm factory crimp die. A taper crimp is often better for straight walled pistol cartridges verus the roll crimp that the seating die provides.
 
Today I tried to relaod for 10mm for the first time. I used .40/10mm Lee dies; aways used Lee dies before and never had a problem but not this time. :(After I adjusted the seating die and seated the bullet I could still push the bullet in. it wasn't crimed at all.

Does this have anything to do with the fact that its a .40 die? do I have to screw the die out bit?? or what is going on?

On a semi auto, the crimp is not terribly helpful, and oftern hurts.

The bullet should be held tight in the case with case wall pressure alone. The crimp is simply to remove the light belling needed to start the bullet in the case. I tend to crimp to .0005 below flush.

I know you're not new to reloading, but as a trouble shooting guide;

1) The sizing die should be adjusted down to touch the shellplate. (crush fit to a piece of plain paper)

2) The belling should be as minimal as you can get away with, just enough to get the base of the bullet in without shaving.

3) The seating die should be set up to seat the bullet to it's final depth.

4) The crimp die should roll the case mouth back to flush, and just a little bit more. ((case wall thickness x 2) + (bullet diameter)) - .0005
 
I'ver reloaded for 9mm .45 and .44mag for years and never thad this problem...

I followed the instructions; screwed in the seating die till it douches the shell holder than back out 3 full turns, than I unscrewed the bullet seating alluminum screw and screwed it in slowely untill my round is 1.25". there was no crimp at all. It just didn't feel right as I was doing it no pressure on the slide of the case just an ubrupt stop when the bullet hits the top of the die.

I was thinking maybe because it's a .40 die primeraly. 3 turns out doesn't apply because 10mm case is a bit longer.
 
I was thinking maybe because it's a .40 die primeraly. 3 turns out doesn't apply because 10mm case is a bit longer.

It shouldn`t matter. They are straight wall cases, and the sizing die needs to squueze that case to the same diameter.
 
Ok just played with it some more and noticed that cases that had problems (no crimp, I could push the bullet in or rotate it with my fingers) were nickel cases.

I did get a factory crimp die so I had to re crimp those.
 
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