Finally, I have my 44 magnum. :)

As far as reloading costs go, 8 gn of unique and water quenched WW bullets will run about $3.50 (7 cents a round) a box after the equipment/molds etc are paid for. That is not much more than a box of .22's and a lot more fun.
Newbie question...
Where can get more info on the water quenched WW bullets? Are those lead or alloy? I just got Super Blackhawk (chosen for round versatility and grip comfort), and I am planning to start reloading. I was under impression, that in 44 mag semi/full load you need to use jacketed or alloy bullets to avoid barrel leading.
 
Newbie question...
Where can get more info on the water quenched WW bullets?
I was under impression, that in 44 mag semi/full load you need to use jacketed or alloy bullets to avoid barrel leading.


Basically you are using straight wheel weights with 2% tin added. So if you have a 10lb pot full of WW's then you need to add 3.2 oz of tin or slightly under 1/4 lb of tin. You have your pot on the bench and pour your bullets as normal in your mold (either ladle or bottom pour). You wait until the sprue hardens and cut the sprue off with the handle.

Now to your side you have a bucket on the floor with a piece of cloth covering the opening and in the middle of the cloth you have cut an X in the middle to let the bullets fall thru.

You turn in your seat and open the mold over the bucket and drop the bullets thru the X on the top, they will roll down the cloth, thru the X or go straight thru and rest on the bottom.

Some people put sponges on the surface of the water, some line the bottom of the bucket with a towel to keep the bullets from denting when they hit each other. I find that once out of every 50 bullets you will see a small dent on the face of one but I don't usually bother being to picky. To each his own.

What you are doing is heating something up and very quickly quenching it in cold water which will increase the hardness of the metal. Same idea as making a knife but our method is much simpler and less time consuming.

WW water quenched will take care of all your .44 Mag needs and only if you get into the 1800 fps or higher stuff for rifles do you need a harder bullet.

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCommentsCBAlloys.htm great reading on Cast bullet alloys and he goes more in depth of what works.

You can read all his stuff at http://www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php is a great resource for all things cast. You can read for hours to find answers to your questions.

The term heat treating is for faster than 1800 fps. to really make the lead alloy hard you need to heat it up for a long time then quickly quench it in cold water. Usually 1/2 hour to 1 hour at 425 F to 450 F or just below melting temperature in your oven on a pan. Then you basically pull it out of the oven and dump it in your sink full of ice cold water. This will really harden bullets to about almost twice as hard as water quenching them.

So don't get the two terms confused, water quenching is all you need for magnum handgun loads.

Heat treating is even harder for rifle high speed loads.


Leading is usually caused by wrong size of bullet or to soft of alloy or not enough lubrication.
 
Brand new S&W 629-6 Classic - 6.5"

I always wanted to have something like Dirty Harry's gun. :)

EDIT: Fired new toy today. Reloaded cast 240gr - 50rds of special loads and 50rds of mangum (no way can I handle more than 50rds per visit) Holy #*@. I LIKE, I LIKE! But I need advice on why I only see puny flames with 23grains of H110. Factory 180gr REM has serious flames.

629-65.jpg


I just noticed, this my 629th post too! What are the chances!?!? Is this my lucky day? The only gun I ever wanted too!


VERY nice!!!!!
 
I'm shooting 23gr of H110 with just melted down WW. After 50rds of that and 50rds of 6-10gr of titegroup with 240gn bullet, next to nothing leading with 2x coated liquid Xlox (white lable Alox).
 
You guys are making me miss my Raging Bull, I sold it 2.5 years ago. mistake I regret. :(

I still have some H110 left actually. PS: you can't start low and work your way up with this powder! don't go lower than 3% of the max load!
 
I still have some H110 left actually. PS: you can't start low and work your way up with this powder! don't go lower than 3% of the max load!

While this is generally good advice with slower powders, 3% is unrealistic. My Hornady manual lists a starting load of H110 as 20.7gr and the max as 24.8gr, with a 245gr jacketed bullet. The starting load is 16.5% below the max, not 3%. 3% of 24.8gr is only 0.744gr, not nearly enough of a range to work with.

In my experience so far, H110 works well at any weight from 22.0gr up to 24.5gr, pushing a 245gr cast SWC.

Mark
 
I agree that the 3% below maximum recommendation for H110 is conservative. It certainly isn't a good choice for light plinking loads, but you can download by more than 3%. Using Hodgdon's data for 240 grain loads, I found that with Frontier 245 grain CMJs, the bullets were jumping the crimp (albeit not enough to tie up the gun) at the starting load of 23.0 grains. I use 22.0 grains and get good accuracy when I do my part.
 
I finally took my 629 out to the range. It's amazing! Loaded 6-10grn of titegroup pushing 240gn lead cast boolit felt nice. But holy H110. 50rds of that and it's way more than enough per visit. But I can't get those flames like factory 180gn REM. I loaded up to ~23.2gn of H110 and nothing. Just a marginal flame. Factory REM causes a huge FLASH and has deeper BOOM too. I was like holy *#*(. I then went to outdoor range and REM didn't have nice flash anymore and I couldn't even see any flames with H110.

Hey John777 is this what your looking for? I took all of these last night all shot with my new to me 629 Classic, the first six photo's are 240 gr Hornady xtp hp loaded with 20 gr of 2400 i am going hotter on the next batch....The last two are factory Remington 180gr jsp..

I have come to the conclusion that i need to find some 180 gr copper plated bullets as they are loaded with more powder as per the Lyman book I have and that should give even a better show...:D

I let everyone at the range shoot it last night and all loved the big loads..:D

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[
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DSC03377.jpg
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I finally took my 629 out to the range. It's amazing! Loaded 6-10grn of titegroup pushing 240gn lead cast boolit felt nice. But holy H110. 50rds of that and it's way more than enough per visit. But I can't get those flames like factory 180gn REM. I loaded up to ~23.2gn of H110 and nothing. Just a marginal flame. Factory REM causes a huge FLASH and has deeper BOOM too. I was like holy *#*(. I then went to outdoor range and REM didn't have nice flash anymore and I couldn't even see any flames with H110.

Hey John777 is this what your looking for? I took all of these last night all shot with my new to me 629 Classic, the first six photo's are 240 gr Hornady xtp hp loaded with 20 gr of 2400 i am going hotter on the next batch....The last two are factory Remington 180gr jsp..

I have come to the conclusion that i need to find some 180 gr copper plated bullets as they are loaded with more powder as per the Lyman book I have and that should give even a better show...:D

I let everyone at the range shoot it last night and all loved the big loads..:D

DSC03360.jpg
DSC03369.jpg



DSC03370.jpg
DSC03372.jpg



DSC03375.jpg
DSC03376.jpg



DSC03377.jpg
DSC03378.jpg

I love these series of photos!!!:D:D
 
JOJOPINTO: good lord! Awesome PICS! Looks like we need to reload with lighter bullets. But I'll be happy with what you're getting. It's almost as flamey as factory REM, not quite there, but still amazing!

I have 8+lbs of H110 to use. No more flames for me. Plus, I will never benefit from the awesomeness outdoors, even with 180gr REMs. Unless I find another indoor shooting range.
 
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JOJOPINTO: Great pictures.
I got mine brand new 44 Ruger SBH just recently.
I tried it first time on last Sat. Sad news - rear sights has broken in half after 9 rounds (it was determined afterwards that base of sight was defective).
Those are pictures with sight removed.

Skeet and gun config 004 sm.jpg

Skeet and gun config 005 sm.jpg


I was a little disappointed. I took sight off the frame to have closer look at it. And then... I got the idea. After all sighting in its crude form is to align two points of refference with target, shoot and do neccessary corrections. You can see at second pic that what is left after rear sight assembly is removed resembles somewhat ... rear sight. We decided to give it a try, first at pins in front of sandy berm (to see how much off this new "system" would be, then at target (both at 25 yards).
To my pleasant surprise we were actualy able to hit the target.
This is mine after six rounds:

Skeet and gun config 002 sm.jpg


I could not believe I actually hit the middle of it. We agreed that it was a lucky shot (just to have some memories I took this one down).
But then my son tried 3 rounds:

Skeet and gun config 003 sm.jpg


Can you believe! (He took that one down right away!!!)
Needles to say rest of shooting was not as "precise". We shot ~75 rounds total - some 44 special, some factory and some commercial reloads.
Bisley grip rocks, I was fine to continue, but without proper, more precise sights, it was just blasting away.
Good news - new replacement sight is on the way.:)
 
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