newbie question: lee press RCBS dies yes/no?

LuckyLuc82

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I have a lee challenger press, I bought it used, I also got used .223 dies, well the sizing die broke, my fault not enough lube on the case, got stuck, I got it out but broke the die. My local store is out of .223 die sets but they have plenty of RCBS sets, this might be a dumb question but can I biy them and use them in my lee press?
 
I ####ing hate bass pro, the idiots there told me you can't and that I had to wait for the new shipment, and that they didn't know when that would be!! Yet another reason I can't stand the staff there.
 
Every now and again we get some newbie reloading questions that have me wondering if these folks are up to safely reloading cartridges, I don't want to sound negative but, "broke my die" and other problems, make me wonder if folks shouldn't go back and review reloading manuals for safety sake. When new reloaders ask for equip. recommendations, usually the only unanimous recommendation is usually a couple of reloading manuals and "study them". Anyways...good luck with your reloading.
 
When I started reloading another guy showed me the basics. That must still be a good option. nr reason to sit in the basement, alone, and make all the basic misatkes.

YouTube is good for demonstations of neat things, but you can't ask it questions.
 
And RCBS and some other dies come with lifetime warranty - you break something due to your fault - they send you replacement parts for free.
I like Hornady dies better myself.
 
After reading a lot of newbie questions and concerns, I often think the modern manuals are much too detailed. The manuals try to cover every detail a reloader may encounter, and this has turned the reloaders into robots that just follw all the directions.
Maybe I didn't get this across very well and people will trash me for it. Most of the questions the newbies ask can be answered by common sense. Many times I feel like answering by telling them to just figure it out and do it.
Look how many questions are asked about cartridge overall length. We see newbies all in a dither because for some reason they can't come up with the length, right down to a couple thousands, of what the book states. Why couldn't the manuals simply state the length of the cartridge should be so the bullet is seated deep enough in the neck to hold it and the cartridge will work through the magazine and the bolt will close on it.
Or, it could be like the loading charts were when Ganderite and I started loading. They said nothing about COAL. Nor did they say anything about what primer to use. Or, what bullet, other than bullet weight. The charts I had showed only one weight of powder, per load. It was referred to as "charge," and some manuals said to start lower, to see if it was OK in your rifle.
Many new reloaders are scared stiff to use the load designated, "Maximum." In reality the maximum load is calulated to be about the same as a factory loaded cartridge. Are they scared to shoot a factory load in their rifle?
Anyway, that's how I see it.
 
It took me a while to decide weather or not I should write this or not, and then I decided to heck with it I will just do it. I'll start out with saying that I don't have nearly the experience that ben hunchak or H4831 have. But I don't think it's right that fellas come on here and start talking down to newbies. The op stated that he knew what he did wrong, so I'm going to guess he has an idea about whats going on. Maybe he checked for an answer for the question he was looking for and couldn't find it. And so he come on here looking for advice, rather than going out and possibly wasting $40.00 on a set of dies that may not work for him. Seems logical enough to me. He asked a store for advice and they clearly failed him. All you experienced guys talk about is numbers, so for people to be worried about getting the perfect COAL doesn't seem to unreasonable to me. It's really nice to hear your opinions, thats why were all here is to learn stuff. But I think it's getting to the point of a guy being worried to ask a question because your scared your going to get flamed. And I simply don't think thats right. I'll get off my soap box now, and sorry to interrupt your thread.

Taylor
 
Well I wasn't trying to talk down to the poster, my concern is/was his long term health! I think that some time spent with an experienced reloader would be a big benefit, prolly more then reading a manual.
 
All I asked was a simple question, I may be new to reloading but I'm not stupid. I bought used equipment and a used set of dies, the dies didn't work right from the get go. To clarify yes I did have someone show me how to reload, and yes I read the manuals. When I went to bass pro and asked foe advice on what set to buy, cause I was tired of these "worn out dies" the sales guys asked me what press I had then he told me that lee dies are the only ones that will work in my lee press, I thought it sounded odd but he insisted!

I had about $150 in accessories I was buying that day, but I put it all down and walked out of the store confused. Not to mention I wasted about an hour of my time driving back and forth for nothing!

All I wanted was a simple yes/no, didn't realize one had to be a super reloader to ask a question here...
 
Quick and simple answer - yes, you can use RCBS, Lee, Hornady dies and so on.
And quick and simple advise - research before going to the store.
 
Well - How exactly did you "break" your sizing die? I've done my fair share of abuse to dies, and have never broke one outright. FWIW - They are designed to "let go", once they get to bunged up.
 
The deprimer/headspacing pin came out stuck inside the shell, I got it out, rescrewed it back into the die and a few shells later same thing... After a while I decided it wasn't going to stay in. I know there is warranty but I want to load some rounds for the weekend that's why I want to buy new ones.

Are hornady ones worth the extra cash?
 
In my personal opinion they are worth the price. I do not load .223 thou so not familiar with them first hand. But their pistol line of dies is great.

From what I hear on .223 dies - Redding and Forster are good where Forster is less expensive.
 
It took me a while to decide weather or not I should write this or not, and then I decided to heck with it I will just do it. I'll start out with saying that I don't have nearly the experience that ben hunchak or H4831 have. But I don't think it's right that fellas come on here and start talking down to newbies. The op stated that he knew what he did wrong, so I'm going to guess he has an idea about whats going on. Maybe he checked for an answer for the question he was looking for and couldn't find it. And so he come on here looking for advice, rather than going out and possibly wasting $40.00 on a set of dies that may not work for him. Seems logical enough to me. He asked a store for advice and they clearly failed him. All you experienced guys talk about is numbers, so for people to be worried about getting the perfect COAL doesn't seem to unreasonable to me. It's really nice to hear your opinions, thats why were all here is to learn stuff. But I think it's getting to the point of a guy being worried to ask a question because your scared your going to get flamed. And I simply don't think thats right. I'll get off my soap box now, and sorry to interrupt your thread.

Taylor

Well said Taylor.

As for the original poster's question it seems legitimate enough to me (although admittedly I am a fairly new reloader myself); I don't recall reading anywhere in my Lee reloading manual or the instructions that came with any of my Lee dies anything about being able to use the Lee press with dies from another company. It seems like a fair question to ascertain that the other company's dies do not use some kind of proprietary threading that is designed to fit in their own press.

Regards,

Chizzy
 
The deprimer/headspacing pin came out stuck inside the shell, I got it out, rescrewed it back into the die and a few shells later same thing... After a while I decided it wasn't going to stay in. I know there is warranty but I want to load some rounds for the weekend that's why I want to buy new ones.

Are hornady ones worth the extra cash?

Just a few thoughts. What kind of brass were you using when you had the problem? I had a bit of grief one time from some brass where the flash hole was tight and it did the same thing, pulled the decap rod out of the die.

Another time I changed the depth of the decap rod on a die as I'm a fan of partial full length sizing. Wasn't tight enough and did the same thing. I find you really have to tighten them, beyond what you think you might have to.

Hopefully ^^ is your problem.
 
H4831, Ben Hunchak...you guys are great and you really know your stuff, and this time, I have to say that the both of you really let the OP down gently. But Pat 84 is really on the money.

I can't speak for the other newbies, but myself, I searched and searched many times before asking a question. And everywhere, there're references to great detail, the dire consequences and the pursuit of extreme precision. Heck, even the company name of of one of the brands has the word "precision" in it!

So yeah, as one who did not know (like the OP) I came on here, and asked. Truth be told, people have been really nice to me with great help coming by way of PMs. But I often see the "read the manual, dummy" reply to quite a few other posts. Well, after reading many search results and reading the manual, it leaves one with more questions than answers!!

Look how many questions are asked about cartridge overall length. We see newbies all in a dither because for some reason they can't come up with the length, right down to a couple thousands, of what the book states. Why couldn't the manuals simply state the length of the cartridge should be so the bullet is seated deep enough in the neck to hold it and the cartridge will work through the magazine and the bolt will close on it.

Exactly right H4831! I was one of those newbies with that ridiculous question. If you remember, I first asked if a caliper with 2 decimal places was good enough. Well, that thread went on to people talking about micrometers and some units of measurement i never even read in the books. I decided to get a caliper with 3 decimal places because the manuals (and the little slip of paper that came with the dies) stated a measurement with 3 decimal places.

It was all for naught though. Damn thing shot the same as far as I could tell. And you're also right about being scared stiff about using "Maximum" loads. Can you blame us...all the manuals come with dire warnings and if you do a search on this very forum, you too will come away being afraid. Very afraid.

I now see the error of my ways. I have become more relaxed. I am thinking a grain over here and there...ahh, what the heck. One or two thousandths...no biggie. What precipitated my change? Simply, experience. I loaded, shot, loaded some more, shot some more and now I realise, hey, its not really rocket science and REALLY NOT SCARY AT ALL!! I figured it out, did it and damn if the old gun didn't blow up in my one remaining eye!

But enough with all the scare talk. I know its not your intention (which is to make sure we don't blow ourselves up), but cut the newbies some slack. After all, there are no stupid questions...

Now to answer the OP: I can't seem to see from your post, as to which sizing dies you had. I know you stated Lee Press, but your dies could be anything. I'm going to guess Lee dies as well? If that's the case, your die may not be broken, but as the other poster suggested, just needs tightening. I know you said you tightened it, but you will be surprised how much you need to tighten it.

The force required is considerable. In my case, I put it flush (I know Lee' site says it needs to stick out a little) and went at it with a very large socket wrench. I didn't use a torque wrench, but if I had to guess, it felt like more force than when I use to tighten my wheel lugs (>90 lbs!) Then, when using it, it would slide out that little bit that Lee says its supposed to...and stays there. Give that a shot.

Another thing you might want to try (and I only realised it after loading a few rounds) is to completely disassemble the dies and clean with brake cleaner. I didn't realise that the dies came packed in grease (didn't seem greasy), but they do that to prevent rust. Your dies, being used, may have been sprayed with oil to preserve it. Why not take it apart and clean it, then put it together as mentioned before buying new dies. Who knows, it might save you some money. A set of dies can buy you a whole pound of powder...
 
Oh I tightened it like you wouldn't believe, trust me I tried and tried thank you for the advice though.

Depending on how old they are and how well the dies were treated (Usage and storage) that decapping pin retaining "nut" can become bonded to the die and not be tighted nor removed without ripping off threads (I have had it happen with a used set of dies). I have also had, as a previous poster mentioned, a tight flash hole which pulled out the decapper pin itself, that however I believe was a peice of tumbling media that jammed in with the decapping pin causing the bind.

That being said, if you can remove the retaining nut fairly easily, on way to ensure the decapper does not slide while reloading is to ensure the decapping pin is 100% clean of all lube/oils and scuff up it's surface with an SOS pad or steel wool.
 
After all, there are no stupid questions...

The only stupid questions are the ones that are unasked.

Unfortunately, flaming makes people hesitant about asking questions. Just like those that spout about how a question has been asked so often, stop #####ing at the new questions and link them to the answers or re-state the answers.

It is a simple concept, if you do know know or are unsure, you ask. I cannot however assure anyone that they will not get a stupid answer... :)
 
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