Interested in Muzzle-loaders
- Thread starter The Sand Man
- Start date
- Location
- Victoria, BC
Update
So, I received the muzzleloader I picked up from the EE. It is near perfect condition, and considering the price, I am extremely happy!
In regards to the Lyman Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual, I found it extremely hard to read. Sam Fadala happens to be both writer and editor of the book.
Although he may be a respected member of the Black Powder community, his inability to punctuate and structure his sentences properly made the book straining to understand.
I found the manual full of information and data spanning Black powder handguns, shotguns and rifles. It gave some good advice, and emphasized some strong points. Because Fadala's attempts to combine personable writing and factual information were poor; I suggest that, newbies should do some research on Wikipedia and Youtube to give a good general idea of Black Powder firearms and their functions, prior to reading the Lyman manual.
In contrast, the CVA safety booklet provided well detailed information about my specific rifle, and all the things one needs to know prior to using it. It presented a cautious and clear description of my Hawken, and how it should be used. I suppose companies take good care in informing owners, as to avoid lawsuits.
Here are a couple quick photos of my new, to me, muzzleloader:
I like it already! Can't wait to give it a few shots.
P.S. Looks quite similar to what I wanted, check the first post.
Cheers,
Sand
So, I received the muzzleloader I picked up from the EE. It is near perfect condition, and considering the price, I am extremely happy!
In regards to the Lyman Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual, I found it extremely hard to read. Sam Fadala happens to be both writer and editor of the book.
Although he may be a respected member of the Black Powder community, his inability to punctuate and structure his sentences properly made the book straining to understand.I found the manual full of information and data spanning Black powder handguns, shotguns and rifles. It gave some good advice, and emphasized some strong points. Because Fadala's attempts to combine personable writing and factual information were poor; I suggest that, newbies should do some research on Wikipedia and Youtube to give a good general idea of Black Powder firearms and their functions, prior to reading the Lyman manual.
In contrast, the CVA safety booklet provided well detailed information about my specific rifle, and all the things one needs to know prior to using it. It presented a cautious and clear description of my Hawken, and how it should be used. I suppose companies take good care in informing owners, as to avoid lawsuits.
Here are a couple quick photos of my new, to me, muzzleloader
:
I like it already! Can't wait to give it a few shots.
P.S. Looks quite similar to what I wanted, check the first post.
Cheers,
Sand
So, I received the muzzleloader I picked up from the EE. It is near perfect condition, and considering the price, I am extremely happy!
In regards to the Lyman Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual, I found it extremely hard to read. Sam Fadala happens to be both writer and editor of the book.
I found the manual full of information and data spanning Black powder handguns, shotguns and rifles. It gave some good advice, and emphasized some strong points. Because Fadala's attempts to combine personable writing and factual information were poor; I suggest that, newbies should do some research on Wikipedia and Youtube to give a good general idea of Black Powder firearms and their functions, prior to reading the Lyman manual.
In contrast, the CVA safety booklet provided well detailed information about my specific rifle, and all the things one needs to know prior to using it. It presented a cautious and clear description of my Hawken, and how it should be used. I suppose companies take good care in informing owners, as to avoid lawsuits.
Here are a couple quick photos of my new, to me, muzzleloader
I like it already! Can't wait to give it a few shots.
P.S. Looks quite similar to what I wanted, check the first post.
Cheers,
Sand
Awesome wood, good score. looks good.
the manuals are very good
If the grain is not straight, and if you are applying even slightly angled pressure...the ramrod could shear off, and embed itself in your forearm, or hand.
I've seen pic's on the web of such accidents. Don't want to experience it myself.
That is a beauty.
If you are going to use an extra ramrod and want wood , order one from a
proper bp parts dealer. Stuff found at the lumber yard is definitely risky.
You want straight grained hickory.
My spare rods are aluminum and fiberglass.
And get a nipple wrench , they are handy if you do dry ball.........
If you are going to use an extra ramrod and want wood , order one from a
proper bp parts dealer. Stuff found at the lumber yard is definitely risky.
You want straight grained hickory.
My spare rods are aluminum and fiberglass.
And get a nipple wrench , they are handy if you do dry ball.........
- Location
- Victoria, BC
Wow...that has to be some of the nicest wood I've seen on a ML. Nice score.
It's actually an optical illusion....The wood on the rifle is nice in comparison the the hardwood in our living room.
That is a beauty.
If you are going to use an extra ramrod and want wood , order one from a
proper bp parts dealer. Stuff found at the lumber yard is definitely risky.
You want straight grained hickory.
My spare rods are aluminum and fiberglass.
And get a nipple wrench , they are handy if you do dry ball.........
I shall never dry ball
I might as well jinx myself now, just to do it, and get over with it.
You can quote and mock me once I newbie fail.
I'm working on putting together a muzzleloading toolkit. This rifle came with a fiberglass ramrod, but it does lack end-tips. I just might add an aluminum one, for dependability and such. I'll likely post a preliminary compilation of all the hardware I'll need to get my muzzleloading hobby started.
If anyone can suggest some brands or where to look, that would be much appreciated!
Cheers,
Sand
never really thought about it breaking. I think when I made them I got the DIY from this site. I coated with glue and wrapped with toothfloss and it is quite strong the rods I have are not much thinner OD then the bore is ID
It's actually an optical illusion....The wood on the rifle is nice in comparison the the hardwood in our living room.
I shall never dry ball
I might as well jinx myself now, just to do it, and get over with it.
You can quote and mock me once I newbie fail.
If anyone can suggest some brands or where to look, that would be much appreciated!
Cheers,
Sand
Dixie Gun Works , Track of the Wolf , are good outfits to deal with. Dixie GW is great to deal with (order a catalogue) , and ship fast. Some items like bullets are not shipped due to stupid homeland security rules.
- Location
- vancouver island
you might try makin a ramrod out of brass rod .375" with a t-handle out of antler or such. works really well especially after 15 or so shots on the trail when the piece starts to foul up. the extra weight still allows a smooth seating of the ball, i carry it in the rifle while i'm walking. rgds
- Location
- Victoria, BC
So, I finished reading through the Lyman Black Powder Hand book and the CVA manual from my rifle.
Feel free to spread some knowledge.
16) Pyrodex Pellets cannot be used in my CVA sidelock without a Musket Cap Nipple. Why exactly?
17) My manual states: "Never shoot patched round balls or conical bullets with Pyrodex Pellets". It later states that only sabots provide the tight gas seal necessary for efficient burn of the entire Pyrodex charge. Is it actually dangerous to use pyrodex in conjunction with a patch and ball?
18) I'm told not to use "Poly Patch" in my rifle. These are plastic patches? If so, the polymer melt onto the barrel during firing?
19) Blowing down a freshly fired barrel is dangerous. Should it be avoided, I've seen plenty of videos of people doing so? Is it a bad judgment on their part?
20) The Manual also mentions that using oversized conical bullets in my rifle is wrong. It doesn't seem to elaborate on that statement. So to confirm, it means that my .50 caliber rifle must use .500 caliber conical bullets, no smaller?
21) The Manual also warns that the breech plug must not be removed, if so, the warranty is void. I'm guessing they fear someone would strip the threading, resulting in a burst during firing. Regardless, does anybody remove the breech plug, for cleaning and such? It seems that the Lyman Manual encourages it.
22) I'm not too worried with dry balling as much as misfires. How often do they occur? What would be the most likely reasons other than a clogged up bolster?
23) If I had a misfire, the manual recommends that I remove and soak the barrel with hot water for at least a half-hour. Only then should I proceed to pull the projectile. Is this really standard practice? It would seem that the breech plug would have its best use in such a situation.
24) It would seem to me that accidentally dry balling is just as possible as putting in a double charge. Considering my rifle can only handle loads of 50 gr. to 100gr., dumping in two charges would almost certainly exceed the maximum load. I could imagine that a marked rod would certainly warn a shooter that he or she has double charge. Has anybody done so, and did it result in a barrel warp, or a complete burst?
25) I noted that some of the loading data presents a ball and patch to be of a greater combined caliber than the rifle used. I take it that a patch thickness is measured uncompressed?
Much of these questions are for confirmation. I'll admit that learning the theory behind black powder muzzle loading is overcautious coming from an owner's manual.
Not to mention the fact that muzzle loading is the combination of modern rifles and reloading cartridges. Talk about jumping into the deep end, starting my firearms hobby with a muzzle loader.
I appreciate any help!
Cheers,
Sand
Feel free to spread some knowledge.
16) Pyrodex Pellets cannot be used in my CVA sidelock without a Musket Cap Nipple. Why exactly?
17) My manual states: "Never shoot patched round balls or conical bullets with Pyrodex Pellets". It later states that only sabots provide the tight gas seal necessary for efficient burn of the entire Pyrodex charge. Is it actually dangerous to use pyrodex in conjunction with a patch and ball?
18) I'm told not to use "Poly Patch" in my rifle. These are plastic patches? If so, the polymer melt onto the barrel during firing?
19) Blowing down a freshly fired barrel is dangerous. Should it be avoided, I've seen plenty of videos of people doing so? Is it a bad judgment on their part?
20) The Manual also mentions that using oversized conical bullets in my rifle is wrong. It doesn't seem to elaborate on that statement. So to confirm, it means that my .50 caliber rifle must use .500 caliber conical bullets, no smaller?
21) The Manual also warns that the breech plug must not be removed, if so, the warranty is void. I'm guessing they fear someone would strip the threading, resulting in a burst during firing. Regardless, does anybody remove the breech plug, for cleaning and such? It seems that the Lyman Manual encourages it.
22) I'm not too worried with dry balling as much as misfires. How often do they occur? What would be the most likely reasons other than a clogged up bolster?
23) If I had a misfire, the manual recommends that I remove and soak the barrel with hot water for at least a half-hour. Only then should I proceed to pull the projectile. Is this really standard practice? It would seem that the breech plug would have its best use in such a situation.
24) It would seem to me that accidentally dry balling is just as possible as putting in a double charge. Considering my rifle can only handle loads of 50 gr. to 100gr., dumping in two charges would almost certainly exceed the maximum load. I could imagine that a marked rod would certainly warn a shooter that he or she has double charge. Has anybody done so, and did it result in a barrel warp, or a complete burst?
25) I noted that some of the loading data presents a ball and patch to be of a greater combined caliber than the rifle used. I take it that a patch thickness is measured uncompressed?
Much of these questions are for confirmation. I'll admit that learning the theory behind black powder muzzle loading is overcautious coming from an owner's manual.
Not to mention the fact that muzzle loading is the combination of modern rifles and reloading cartridges. Talk about jumping into the deep end, starting my firearms hobby with a muzzle loader.
I appreciate any help!
Cheers,
Sand
My take on things:
16. #11's are not hot enough to ignite the pellets, flame hits pellets in the side, not on the bottom where it should.
17. ?. Don't know
18. Are they talking about sabots for RB? Don't do that.
19. Don't know why you would, just blow across the muzzle, not down.
20. Just buy conicals for a .50, they are the right size.
21. NO, not on a sidelock, flintlock.
22. blocked nipple / flame channel.(oil, dirt) ALWAYS pop a cap before loading sidelock the first time.
23. Try 4-5 caps, to see if it will fire. There are other things that you can do, but I don't know if its recommended, so I won't mention it.
24. Never did it. Mark your rod
25. Not sure how to explain it .490 ball, .015 patch, that's the way it is.
See if you can find someone with some experience to show you the basics...Good luck.
16. #11's are not hot enough to ignite the pellets, flame hits pellets in the side, not on the bottom where it should.
17. ?. Don't know
18. Are they talking about sabots for RB? Don't do that.
19. Don't know why you would, just blow across the muzzle, not down.
20. Just buy conicals for a .50, they are the right size.
21. NO, not on a sidelock, flintlock.
22. blocked nipple / flame channel.(oil, dirt) ALWAYS pop a cap before loading sidelock the first time.
23. Try 4-5 caps, to see if it will fire. There are other things that you can do, but I don't know if its recommended, so I won't mention it.
24. Never did it. Mark your rod
25. Not sure how to explain it .490 ball, .015 patch, that's the way it is.
See if you can find someone with some experience to show you the basics...Good luck.
- Location
- vancouver island
new to bklack powder
hey sandman-if you want to go for a drive wednesday or thursday, come up to nanaimo fish and game club and i will share some time with you at our range. i have 2 pieces i'm working with anyway and would be happy to spend some time with you to get things off on the right track. i can give you a lot of tips on the simple aspects of the sport 'cause i play with both flint and percussion as well as bp cartridge.let me know if you wish to. regards, bill
hey sandman-if you want to go for a drive wednesday or thursday, come up to nanaimo fish and game club and i will share some time with you at our range. i have 2 pieces i'm working with anyway and would be happy to spend some time with you to get things off on the right track. i can give you a lot of tips on the simple aspects of the sport 'cause i play with both flint and percussion as well as bp cartridge.let me know if you wish to. regards, bill
- Location
- Victoria, BC
I really appreciate the offer, sadly, I've got final exams coming up. I can't say that I'd be able to get any hands on learning until mid August.
I really want to learn as much theory and facts as possible prior to getting started, there's a lot of information to know regarding black powder and muzzle loaders. I just want to know all the basics before being mentored. I'm also looking to gather together all the accessories, I already have a working rifle, I'm essentially half way there. It's a real shame that I won't make it to the Victoria Fish and Game Black Malahat Marauders' meet.
I'm very thankful that there are so many people on the lower Island wanting to help me out.
I'm just distracting myself with this stuff during my down time. Can't wait to get finish up with courses. Once again, I thank you for you kind offer.
Cheers,
Sand
- Location
- vancouver island
no problem sandman, may i suggest a contact who is studying in victoria as well- h.wally is his cgn handle and he will have a lot of info to pass on as well. regards, bill
