S&W vs. Ruger

John in B.C.

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I am currently shooting a S&W M15 Kframe as my IDPA gun. I am considering the purchase of one of the new Ruger GP100 4.2" models.

Has anyone in CGN-land experience with BOTH of these revolvers to the point they can provide a meaningful comparison? If so please share your impressions with me.

John
 
unless you have 12.6 status, if you have ANY intention of competing in the USA, get the 4.2" Ruger as it's the only revolver size that's IDPA-legal on both sides of the border (the max for IDPA in the USA is also the min for restricted in Canada)
 
unless you have 12.6 status, if you have ANY intention of competing in the USA, get the 4.2" Ruger as it's the only revolver size that's IDPA-legal on both sides of the border (the max for IDPA in the USA is also the min for restricted in Canada)

Do you have experience with S&W K frames?

John
 
I have shot them both in IDPA and currently have a 4" S&W 66 and a 2.75" Ruger Security Six.

If you can get one of the older S&W's (pre-lock action) and you have 12.6 status, I would go with the S&W. There are some for sale on the EE from time to time.

I am assuming you have 12.6 since you posted you have a S&W model 15. If you did not have 12.6 or wanted a brand new gun, I would suggest the Ruger. I prefer the older S&W action to the newer one and would take a new GP100 over a new S&W myself.
 
I have shot them both in IDPA and currently have a 4" S&W 66 and a 2.75" Ruger Security Six.

If you can get one of the older S&W's (pre-lock action) and you have 12.6 status, I would go with the S&W. There are some for sale on the EE from time to time.

I am assuming you have 12.6 since you posted you have a S&W model 15. If you did not have 12.6 or wanted a brand new gun, I would suggest the Ruger. I prefer the older S&W action to the newer one and would take a new GP100 over a new S&W myself.

Thank you. Do you know if there are fiber optic sights available for the Rugers?

John
 
Do you have experience with S&W K frames?

John

just a bit on a 686 (L) and a bit more on a 64 (K) and a touch on a Security Six. the triggers on those S&W are admittedly better (on the 64, MUCH better), but i've not tried to draw either from a holster since they were all 6" models which i find too long for my liking - only my 4.2" GP100 has seen a holster.
 
Yeah a 6" is a long pull from an IDPA holster.

that and can you reliably hide the extra barrel length using a shirt / vest / etc? you could hide it if you had an IWB holster, but then you still gotta actually draw the damned thing. but i guess you can always buy an XL or XXL shirt and wear it over top so that the size helps cover your gear. i bought 2 large short-sleeve shirts from Zellers specifically for this purpose.


I wonder if Wolf or Brownells offer action/spring kits for the GP100 ?

i think Wolf does, but are those IDPA legal??? i'd have to re-read the regs, but i think only mods that improve reliability are allowed, no competitive-edge mods.
 
Certainly they would be legal. Very basic action work that is allowed in any division. Actually in SSR you can do a lot to your gun including chamfering the chambers.

John
 
Right on. I should have thought of that. I have Firesights before.

John

how did you like them? i just put a dab of bright orange paint on my Ruger, but maybe something brighter would be worth trying. i've never shot with an optic rod or anything like that.
 
There's also this site as well, found it as a link to a GP100 review on youtube... ht tp://bananafufu.########.com/2007/05/trigger-job-for-your-ruger-gp100.html

Might be helpful, might not just thought I'd throw it out there
 
how did you like them? i just put a dab of bright orange paint on my Ruger, but maybe something brighter would be worth trying. i've never shot with an optic rod or anything like that.

For the money they are pretty good. I just used the front sight and used my stock rear sight with the dots blacked out for better contrast.

I also put a set on a shottie and they were very good.

John
 
There's also this site as well, found it as a link to a GP100 review on youtube... ht tp://bananafufu.########.com/2007/05/trigger-job-for-your-ruger-gp100.html

Might be helpful, might not just thought I'd throw it out there

Nice! Thanks for the link.

I am thinking this Ruger shorty just might be worth a try.

Has anyone ever tried milling the cylinder on a GP100 to accept moonclips?

John
 
I guess that is a big NO :)

I talked to a fellow at a recent IPSC match and he mentioned he found the Ruger cylinders tough sledding when it came to machining - very hard steel.

Rereading this thread I am still needing a clearer opinion on the actual trigger comparison. Is the S&W DA really superior to the GP100 or not ? If you prefer one to the other why - smoother, shorter pull, lighter ?

Also has anyone any experience on tuning the Rugers and if so what was the result?

John
 
i'll try to remember to borrow a 686 this Sat and do a side-by-side comparison with my GP100, even if it's just dry-firing. if i can put some 38 and 357 rounds downrange with the borrowed 686, i can compare that aspect too.
 
My wife shoots a 686 and I shoot a GP100...but I always thought the 686 was an N-frame.

I can tell you that her tuned SA trigger is incredible, better than my Ruger's. But in DA it's pretty much a wash.

I am not enough of a revolver guy to give a particularly meaningful comparison anyway. The 686 has a much tighter set of chambers than the Ruger, which will chamber much bulgier brass.

One thing I can tell you is that I don't perceive any major difference in recoil between the two...I guess I maybe have about 2 or 3 thousand rounds down range in either one of them.

But then her 686 is a classic hunter with a full underlug, so the weight is similar. It has hogue grips which make recoil maybe a little bit softer on the big magnum loads, but I mostly run the monster loads through the ruger anyway.
 
Rereading this thread I am still needing a clearer opinion on the actual trigger comparison. Is the S&W DA really superior to the GP100 or not ? If you prefer one to the other why - smoother, shorter pull, lighter ?

Also has anyone any experience on tuning the Rugers and if so what was the result?

Comparing out-of-the-box triggers on my S&W 686-3 (2,000 rounds at least) and GP100 (the latest model with the wood inlaid grips, before Ruger changed to Hogues, has 300+ rounds), here are my observations based on feel only, without actually measuring anything.

1. Length of DA pull - about the same.

2. Weight of DA - Both heavy, but the 686's is a tad lighter.

3. Smoothness of DA - 686 is a little smoother

4. Feel or control of DA, up to cylinder lock up- it is equally easy to "stage" both revolvers, that is, squeeze DA until the cylinder locks up, then squeeze the last fraction of an inch to drop hammer.

5. Feel or control of DA, from lock-up to hammer drop - the 686's pull requires a shorter arc and remains light and constant to hammer drop, while the GP100 requires a longer arc that gets stiffer until the hammer drops.

6. SA trigger -
686 is crisp, light (only a few ounces for sure), the proverbial hair trigger, the perfect SA trigger, IMO, safe only for range target use.
GP100 has tiny, almost indiscernible creep, weight is substantial compared to the 686, estimated at 2 lbs.

I think the GP100 will only get better with more use. The range rental I used 3 years ago had tens of thousands of rounds through it, it was remarkably smooth in DA. It wasn't really "light", but the smoothness made better control and therefore more accurate shooting. FWIW, I shot 25 rounds range supplied 357 magnum, double action, all hit in the black bullseye (3"?) of the standard range target, with two hits just touching the black. That experience sold me on the GP.

Box-stock, I would give the nod to the 686. But the GP100 would break-in nicely and give a beautiful trigger just the same.

The only thing I would do to a 686 to improve the trigger is a Wolff spring kit, changing both the leaf mainspring and the trigger return spring. Did that to two of my previous 686s and was a tremendous improvement over the already good stock trigger.

A gunsmith can tune the GP or if you like DIY, you can buy the Iowegan Book of Knowledge for the Ruger DA revolvers. http://rugerforum.net/miscellaneous/20585-new-iowegan-gun-guide-2.html#post220764

Both revolvers will eventually wear-in their triggers beautifully.
 
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