AR Reliability question

Dsiwy said:
Well if you run your AR wet you can get over 1000rds before cleaning "there an awesome rifle and why do you think so many SOF, Army and LE people still use them ;)"
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You need to come visit...

We have some new guns that run 5,000 rds with no additional lube suppressed - yes DI.

Did I mention it was a 11.5" gun...
 
KevinB said:
You need to come visit...

We have some new guns that run 5,000 rds with no additional lube suppressed - yes DI.

Did I mention it was a 11.5" gun...
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I can vouch for that when it comes to Knights Armament's stuff... You guys make some stuff that will just keep ticking :) It's impressive to say the least.
 
A TDSA instructor in Ontario recently sent us his 10.3 N8/Stag upper which he's put 13000 rounds through in the last year. He's never cleaned the bore, and claims to give it 'a shot of wd40' every 3000-4000 rounds. We put a new carbon fibre FF tube on it as per his request, other than that, it's bone stock and nothing was out of spec. Original gas rings and all. Every time I hear a story like that, it reinforces my belief that a well made AR15 requires very little care.

I can't remember when I cleaned my rifle last. At least a couple of thousand rounds ago. But after last weekends course and about 800 more rounds, I'm going to give it a look over.
 
IMHO good cleaning is needed... But the big thing is wiping off the BCG and paying attention to the bolt face & extractor. Even that isn't a huge deal. If your running wolf ammo or something else thats very dirty... Then just do what I do... Wipe off the BCG, Bolt Face, Extractor and wipe off the inside of the chamber with a rag after ~500 rounds (you can probably push it to 800-1000rnds but you will start to have to use your FA).

When I'm running clean ammo, then I will wipe down after 800-1000rnds (you can push it further if needed).

After the wipe down, lube it up... I like WD40 or CLP in the field (I also make sure i put a little lube on the hammer face).


Now, when your done shooting for the day and your home... Then thats at least when I give it a good cleaning... I get in there really well on everything and clean it to the point that it's once again "Factory Clean" and ready for next time.



Something else to keep in mind, If you have a FailZero BCG, or fully Chromed BCG then your field cleaning's after high round counts can be spaced out even more and will go MUCH faster. Yes, they are more expensive... but a fantastic upgrade to any AR that is in constant use with high volume round counts.

I even consider it a cost saving measure... Because I can simply wipe off my Chromed BCG's I end up using 1-2 heavy duty paper towels in doing a majority of my BCG cleaning. Thus... I use less Q-tips, less solvent, spend less time, etc...
 
NorCalDustin said:
(I also make sure i put a little lube on the hammer face).
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And that is why you need to clean your chamber as often as you do. That oil will make it from the hammer to the bottom of the BCG and then onto every round of ammunition as it comes to the top of the mag. So stop doing that.

Then put the WD40 back in your tool box, and the CLP in the trash. A good lube is worth is weight in Gold. Think Slip 2000 EWL it works well and does not stink/ give you cancer.
 
Gunnerlove said:
And that is why you need to clean your chamber as often as you do. That oil will make it from the hammer to the bottom of the BCG and then onto every round of ammunition as it comes to the top of the mag. So stop doing that.

Then put the WD40 back in your tool box, and the CLP in the trash. A good lube is worth is weight in Gold. Think Slip 2000 EWL it works well and does not stink/ give you cancer.
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You should put lube on any metal surfaces that will be rubbing our hitting in the gun. (Exception being if you have an FailZero kit, and then you should NOT use any lube anywhere in the gun). As I said, put a little... As in, wipe your finger across the hammer after you've lubed your gun. It should be extremely light / almost no lube...

AND remember... Your not really 'cleaning' the chamber, your just wiping things down... The entire process should take you less than 60 seconds.




As far as lube goes... I agree 1000%, I use my Slip 2k at home... I never take it with me because the plastic bottles it comes in tend to crack in the heat/sun we have in California, meaning that your $55 bottle of Slip 2000 is going to eventually leak all over the place (I had it happen 3 times before I realized what was happening, needless to say I was upset).

That's the reason for using WD40/CLP because they come in an aerosol can and I have yet to have one leak on me. They are certainly not my first choices, in fact they're among my last choices. In the field however, when your in the sun and its 42c (~108f) that bottle of Slip is going start to crack & leak over about a dozen outings.


That's my reasoning for using aerosol lubes such as WD40/CLP... I'm not one of those guys who think that either one of those products are the greatest thing ever... I just think that for my situation/environment they are the better choice. I suppose I should have justified my use of them before instead of giving the impression that I thought they were the end all be all.
 
I have been using a Syn grease and I like how it has been behaving.

This is a near clear colour with an extremely wide operating range. Now available at Cdn tire with the Permatex brand - Ultra Slick. NLGI Grade 2 GC/LB on the back whatever that means.

Anyways, you just put a bit on the moving surfaces and that is it. doesn't run, doesn't fling off, and if it is exposed to powder - goes dirty, wipe off, little carbon sticks to the surface. Reapply a thin film and fly at it.

I feel this is great stuff for the lugs as I have used it on my bolt guns under high pressures with zero issues on galling etc. Because it doesn't run, it isn't going to get on the ammo either.

Trigger sear likes it too.

300rds too much lube and it was a mess. Wiped off the excess and applied less - love it.

Now I don't have huge rates of fire so can't say what will happen under auto fire but it certainly has a higher flash point then WD40.

I like it.

Jerry
 
Gunnerlove said:
And that is why you need to clean your chamber as often as you do. That oil will make it from the hammer to the bottom of the BCG and then onto every round of ammunition as it comes to the top of the mag. So stop doing that.

Then put the WD40 back in your tool box, and the CLP in the trash. A good lube is worth is weight in Gold. Think Slip 2000 EWL it works well and does not stink/ give you cancer.
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The Hammer face is a good place for a small amount of TW25B Grease.

It is a wear spot in that the bolt carrier rides over it to #### the hammer.

WD40 is the devil, keep it away from weapons


CLP is not as bad as everyone says, but its not the best lube out there.
 
KevinB said:
The Hammer face is a good place for a small amount of TW25B Grease.

It is a wear spot in that the bolt carrier rides over it to #### the hammer.

WD40 is the devil, keep it away from weapons


CLP is not as bad as everyone says, but its not the best lube out there.
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What do you think of Gunzilla? TIA
 
The easiest(and probably cheapest for some people) way is to give it a splash of CLP into the receiver and never clean.
 
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