Nine 1911 Myths

Ftaview

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Nine 1911 Myths
By Patrick Sweeney


The Army wanted a .45 because of the .38’s poor performance against the Moros.
In actuality, what everyone wanted was a caliber that could stop a charging horse. The Army had been using a .45 sidearm before the .38 Colt, liked it, and wanted more of the same.

The 1911 has to rattle to be reliable.

A loose gun can be reliable, but it is a symptom, not a cause. A reliable pistol works in a repeatable fashion, loose or tight. Reliable is reliable, loose is loose, and a pistol may be both.

You need a light trigger to shoot a 1911 well.
A clean, crisp trigger that works the same way every time is easier to build correct habits around. A light trigger can encourage trigger-snatching and anticipating the break of the shot.

The best way to test a 1911 trigger is to drop the slide on an empty chamber.
When you crash the slide home, it bounces the trigger back and forth in its slot, and that taps the sear. The barrel lugs also take the full force of the recoil spring and slide momentum, without a feeding round to slow them down. That hurts.

You shoot faster with a lighter recoil spring
No, light springs are not a means to shoot faster. They are something that very fast shooters use to “time” the gun to their shooting pace. The difference is so small, if you aren’t consistently second in matches, tuning the springs won’t help.

Shock buffers increase frame life.
With all due respect to those who make shock buffers, I’ve never worn out a frame. Some 1911s actually are made less reliable with a shock buffer installed. If they don’t make your gun cranky, and you are comforted by them, go for it. Otherwise, skip the buffers.

Every 1911 has to be gunsmithed to be reliable and accurate.

Back in the old days, maybe. Today, not so much. I’d go so far as to say that if you find a newly bought 1911 to be inaccurate or unreliable, I’d look first to your own reloaded ammo before blaming the gun.

The feed ramp has to glimmer like mercury to be reliable.
If the feed ramp is in the correct place in the frame and tipped at the right angle, it will feed everything regardless of toolmarks. Does your pistol work? If yes, leave it alone. If not, find the real source of the problem and don’t go polishing everything in sight just because you have power tools and are itching to use them.

The recoil of a .45 1911 is too much for many shooters.
If you really believe that, I have a group of women shooters I’d like to introduce you to—national-level competitors who are under 51⁄2 feet tall, some barely five feet, who have no problems with the .45 ACP. The recoil of the .45 is not nothing, but it certainly isn’t an oppressive impact.
 
Thanks for the great information Ftaview.
The only accurate comments I can add, I once had a 1911 AMT that is long gone. (I don't miss it even a tiny bit)
But I have a 1991A1 that runs perfectly with good magazines. Fixed sights, but it's a keeper.
 
1911's are all about good mags. Wilson and Chip mags have been great in my experience. The key to shooting a 1911 well and reliably is to hold it like you mean it. Holding a 1911 loosely causes problems with recoil and reliability. My wife shoots my 1911's often and has no problem.
 
Interesting points. I agree about the recoil. I find a 38 special from a 2" barrel is harder to control than a 45 in a 1911. In fact, I have a 10mm Delta Elite that's much tamer than my old 357 model 13 with a 4" barrel.

The trigger comment makes sense. I have an STI with a really light trigger. It's fine when you're really aiming carefully, but rapid fire is harder to control. If I'm trying to go fast, I've had the occasional premature fire.

Interesting theory on shock buffers. I just started using them on the 10mm, with the idea it would make it last longer. I intalled a 24 lb. spring at the same time. All I've really noticed is a slightly softer recoil. Nothing that drastic. It does make it a lot harder to strip, mainly because of the full length rod. Probably a waste of time and money?
 
"The 1911 has to rattle to be reliable.
A loose gun can be reliable, but it is a symptom, not a cause. A reliable pistol works in a repeatable fashion, loose or tight. Reliable is reliable, loose is loose, and a pistol may be both."

Funny, my Colt Commander is loose as horny cougar and amazingly accurate. My Dan Wesson SSC is tight as (well you know!) and it's amazingly accurate also!
 
The only item missing from that list is that every handgun fan should have at least one 1911 that shoots .45ACP in their collection. They really are enough different in a very good way to make this a dead cinch requirement for anyone that enjoys handguns.
 
Interesting points. I agree about the recoil. I find a 38 special from a 2" barrel is harder to control than a 45 in a 1911. In fact, I have a 10mm Delta Elite that's much tamer than my old 357 model 13 with a 4" barrel.

The trigger comment makes sense. I have an STI with a really light trigger. It's fine when you're really aiming carefully, but rapid fire is harder to control. If I'm trying to go fast, I've had the occasional premature fire.

Interesting theory on shock buffers. I just started using them on the 10mm, with the idea it would make it last longer. I intalled a 24 lb. spring at the same time. All I've really noticed is a slightly softer recoil. Nothing that drastic. It does make it a lot harder to strip, mainly because of the full length rod. Probably a waste of time and money?

I agree on the recoil - the worst gun I've ever shot was a 2" J frame .357 - in comparison the 50 Desert Eagle is a pussycat. As far as shock buffers go, your 10mm is a case where they probably really do some good, remember Colt had issues with Delta Elite frames cracking, which they attributed to frame hammering.
 


The recoil of a .45 1911 is too much for many shooters.
If you really believe that, I have a group of women shooters I’d like to introduce you to—national-level competitors who are under 51⁄2 feet tall, some barely five feet, who have no problems with the .45 ACP. The recoil of the .45 is not nothing, but it certainly isn’t an oppressive impact.


Had a 9-year-old boy out to the range day before yesterday. He did just fine with the 1911. He handled the recoil just fine.
 
"The 1911 has to rattle to be reliable.
A loose gun can be reliable, but it is a symptom, not a cause. A reliable pistol works in a repeatable fashion, loose or tight. Reliable is reliable, loose is loose, and a pistol may be both."

Funny, my Colt Commander is loose as horny cougar and amazingly accurate. My Dan Wesson SSC is tight as (well you know!) and it's amazingly accurate also!

It is also a myth that a tight slide to frame fit is highly important to accuracy. The fit of the slide, barrel, and bushing are by far the most important factors in mechanical accuracy.

While a 1911 (or any other auto pistol) doesn't need to have very sloppy slide to frame fit to be reliable, excessive tightening of this fit will make the gun more vulnerable to grit-induced stoppages.

Item #4 is the correct way to check for hammer follow, but it is definitely not something that should be done repeatedly on a gun with a tuned trigger, as it will accelerate hammer/sear wear.
 
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