M14 bipod mount
- Thread starter pierrody
- Start date
What stock do you have? If it's the plastic M305, it has a hole just ahead of the swivel where you can attach your bipod there. I don't have one myself but I know there are mounts that are designed to be installed over your swivel but has provisions for a swivel on it.
I wouldn't use the gas hole for mounting a bipod even on a plastic stock, that hole is there for a reason and is best kept open. On my M1A I drilled out the front rivet, ground down the loop on the swivel plate and mounted the bipod on the plate. I had to do some very minor hollowing to the inside of the stock to allow the piston to operate properly but in my case I didn't use the best Harris adapter for my situation. I think it was the Harris #2 that I used.
Search the forums for "bipod adapter", there are a couple Harris adapters that will work with the M14 style stock.
** This is the one you want. **
I used the HB2, I'm pretty sure the HB2R was made after I mounted my bipod.
Search the forums for "bipod adapter", there are a couple Harris adapters that will work with the M14 style stock.
** This is the one you want. **
I used the HB2, I'm pretty sure the HB2R was made after I mounted my bipod.
well, i do, and that's ONE way to do it, but you give up your DRAIN HOLE
a BETTER way is to get a sling stud ( the machine screw one) and a T nut-you can also use the HARRIS adapter no 2 i believe- DRILL OUT one of the studs that holds the front swivel in place- use a drill that matches the diameter of the sling swivel stud, - it comes out fairly easy- then put the sling stud through the hole and put the t nut on the uother side and do it up right, and see how much screw you have left over- then TAKE IT OUT and cut off the excess- it should be flush with the t- nut- then e- poxy the t- nut on place and let dry- now, you have bith your original sling swivel AND a place to mount the HARRIS bipod- it just screws into the sling swivel stud- and there's a spot on the harris for your sling as well- personally, i REMOVED the forward SLING SWIVEL loop and just use the sling swivel on the bipod - it made too much noise the other way
a BETTER way is to get a sling stud ( the machine screw one) and a T nut-you can also use the HARRIS adapter no 2 i believe- DRILL OUT one of the studs that holds the front swivel in place- use a drill that matches the diameter of the sling swivel stud, - it comes out fairly easy- then put the sling stud through the hole and put the t nut on the uother side and do it up right, and see how much screw you have left over- then TAKE IT OUT and cut off the excess- it should be flush with the t- nut- then e- poxy the t- nut on place and let dry- now, you have bith your original sling swivel AND a place to mount the HARRIS bipod- it just screws into the sling swivel stud- and there's a spot on the harris for your sling as well- personally, i REMOVED the forward SLING SWIVEL loop and just use the sling swivel on the bipod - it made too much noise the other way
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- Virden, MB
The hole is a drain hole. You plan on storming a beach with your M305 and needing to quickly drain the water out before you can return fire?
I epoxied a nut for a swivel stud in the hole, works great.
I epoxied a nut for a swivel stud in the hole, works great.
That hole is there so that the gas leaving the gas cylinder also leaves the stock. Try putting a piece of paper on the bench under the hole while you are shooting and see what happens.
Blocking the hole will force the escaping gasses and carbon up into your stock. I don't know if it can be proven, but I don't imagine this helps the accuracy of the rifle much either.
I've never seen it written that the hole was designed for "water drainage".
Blocking the hole will force the escaping gasses and carbon up into your stock. I don't know if it can be proven, but I don't imagine this helps the accuracy of the rifle much either.
I've never seen it written that the hole was designed for "water drainage".
That hole %100 was designed as a drain hole... it just happens to also vent some gas. See here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=487215
The hole outside the stock is there for a reason. If you are getting lots of gas through the actual drain/weep hole...it may be time to get a new gas assembly.
Blocking it up may not be detrimental, but one does lose the ability to drop cleaner onto the cylinder using the weep hole for those NM rifles where shooters don't want to take it out of the stock and ruin the bedding.
In any case, block it up, don't like it, drill it out...easy fix...
OH NO, YOU DON'T- that military style bipod will do NOTHING but add weight to your already rifle, moreover, when you use it prone it SHIFTS the position of the barrel as it's coupled to the gas cylinder- it was DESIGNED AS AN AID TO AUTOMATIC FIRE, not to the steadyness of the rifle- AVOID THESE LIKE THE PLAGUES THEY ARE-attached to the stock, the bipod will have NO INFLUENCE on the barrel, which is as it should be
what are you having trouble with?-you take the screw from the nut, and drop it in from the top of the stock, then you screw the nut into place from the bottom- then you check to see if it clears the oprod and piston- if it doesn't , you might have to dremel the stock slightly or thin the plate- either way works, then epoxy the plate in place
that's what i figured.. i was hoping there was a way to do it without dremmeling my stock.. its a usgi and i didn't want to do the dremmel thing unless i absolutely had too. oh well.. i guess dremmel it is.
Try, test fit, see if you even need to dremel. You might not. You can always thin out the nut itself too. Won't be critical failure with minor work.
Carries all the same problems of the USGI type bipod. NCStar...always cheap in price, quality may vary....in other words, YMMV
My belief is that you will get the best accuracy by attaching the bipod closer to the centre of the rifle. When you hook the bipod out at the tip of the stock, it easily alters barrel pressure at the ferule. I drilled and tapped a small plate for the sling swivel stud, then epoxied it into the stock, half way between the tip and the magazine.
The USGI bipod that goes onto the barrel or gas cylinder will put pressure on the barrel and change point of impact. It was probably a workable system when m14's were operated full auto spray and pray.
The USGI bipod that goes onto the barrel or gas cylinder will put pressure on the barrel and change point of impact. It was probably a workable system when m14's were operated full auto spray and pray.
done! piece of cake...
there's a lot of wood on the stock as you go further back from the ferule.
Here's what I did for my Boyd's Pepper Laminate:
I took one of these:
Drilled a hole about 2" back from the front swivel all the way through the stock, and took a 1/2" spade bit to recess a 1/2" washer on both sides (you have to cut in a bit on the inside of the stock). Tighten in place and lay a cover of epoxy over the inside nut.
This is cheaper, easier and stronger than using the other swivels suggested - the stud is longer, and the recess is much easier to make than would an oblong recess. I got mine for about $4 shipped (I bought three) on eBay, but I'm sure there are multiple sources if you search on: "Uncle Mike's Swivel Screw Machine Stud 7/8 inch"
You must use this type of swivel screw - with washers and a nut on the back. Many have regretted using a swivel screw with a "wood stud" instead of the machine stud, where they could simply drill a pilot hole and screw it in, but it will loosen and fail.
I took one of these:
Drilled a hole about 2" back from the front swivel all the way through the stock, and took a 1/2" spade bit to recess a 1/2" washer on both sides (you have to cut in a bit on the inside of the stock). Tighten in place and lay a cover of epoxy over the inside nut.
This is cheaper, easier and stronger than using the other swivels suggested - the stud is longer, and the recess is much easier to make than would an oblong recess. I got mine for about $4 shipped (I bought three) on eBay, but I'm sure there are multiple sources if you search on: "Uncle Mike's Swivel Screw Machine Stud 7/8 inch"
You must use this type of swivel screw - with washers and a nut on the back. Many have regretted using a swivel screw with a "wood stud" instead of the machine stud, where they could simply drill a pilot hole and screw it in, but it will loosen and fail.
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i got mine 25/14.00 at wholesale sports- it was a bluk pack with nuts and it was on clearance- most folks don't know what they are or what they look like- but mine were 1 inch- i did exactlt the same as andy, but i ran the threads all the way to the bottom for just that much more grip- and i used a t nut
