Muzzle break loosens when barrel is hot

pbr streetgang

pbr streetgang

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So I picked up a muzzle break for my MR223 from Joe at Dlask, and it works great. The problem is that after about 60 down the pipe the muzzle break loosens up and will spin. I would prefer to avoid using lock-tite if possible, and when the barrel is cold it threads to perfect alignment for the muzzle break to be effective...

Any suggestions?
 
I mean, plumbing/barrel ... OK .... but Teflon Tape?? C'mon .... no offense. :) Maybe some kind of compound like LockTite.

Try a Smith Enterprises Vortex Flash Eliminator. It tightens with every shot fired because the flutes face to the right and the rifling in an AR barrel faces left.
 
Muzzle break ... How a bout a crush washer? Does it have one of those?

ETA: OK, vodnik beat me to it.
 
It's a 2 piece unit with 1/2 inch wide spacer ring (or washer) that is not threaded but sits on the barrel just behind the thread, then the actual muzzle break threads onto the barrel in front of it. I guess because the MR223 has a tapered barrel it's necessary.
 
Well, if you install a NEW crush washer and index the break correctly it should not come loose. So, problem solved!
 
pbr streetgang said:
So I picked up a muzzle break for my MR223 from Joe at Dlask, and it works great. The problem is that after about 60 down the pipe the muzzle break loosens up and will spin. I would prefer to avoid using lock-tite if possible, and when the barrel is cold it threads to perfect alignment for the muzzle break to be effective...

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I have the same gun and a muzzle brake from Dlask Arms. Same loosening problem initially. I went with Loctite and a few thousand rounds later it is still indexed perfectly.

If you have concerns about barrel temperature loosening the loctite you might want to try to locate some Rocksett ( htt p://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Rocksett-2-OZ/dp/B001C1D800 ) which has an extremely high temperature rating ( 1100 degrees Celcius ).

The Dlask brake I have is very effective with practically no muzzle rise, but there is a *slight* barrel shift to shooters right when fired. If I mounted it again, I would orient the brake a few degrees off center to nudge the barrel to shooters left. The dot would then just sit on the target for followup shots.
 
stay away from smith enterprise bulls**t . MR223 has a different thread altogether . The bushing you are talking about is the crush washer . If you cannot assemble it to sit tight , then go back to Joe Dlask and he will assemble it for you . do not forget generally you do not have more than one chance to correctly assemble it - crush washers are single use , not multiple use .
 
Not sure why you are afraid of loctite. Just put a single drop of Blue loctite at the end of the threads on the barrel and let it set over night. It's no problem to take the brake off again if you need to, and any loctite can be loosened by applying some gentle heat from a propane torch if you really need to.
 
Loctite on parts that get HOT is a no-no for me. Seriously, just get a new crush washer and crank it on (don't back it off at all at any point.)
 
G37 said:
Loctite on parts that get HOT is a no-no for me. Seriously, just get a new crush washer and crank it on (don't back it off at all at any point.)
Click to expand...

Seriously, have you ever used or even seen an MR223? There is a decreased radius section of barrel immediately aft of the threaded portion. There is nothing close by to crush a washer against:

imgp1438z.jpg


imgp1220g.jpg


I've had the brake on with loctite for a while now. It sounds like the original poster has a new version of the Dlask brake with a wide spacer ( "It's a 2 piece unit with 1/2 inch wide spacer ring (or washer) that is not threaded but sits on the barrel just behind the thread, then the actual muzzle break threads onto the barrel in front of it. I guess because the MR223 has a tapered barrel it's necessary." ) which may allow the use of a crush washer. I'm local to Dlask Arms so I could call or go by and check it out but mine ain't broke so I'm not likely to fix it.

*Again* there is a high temp thread locker called Rocksett which is recommended by Surefire to mount their suppressors if you have concerns about loctite failing under extreme heat scenarios. I haven't found it necessary to use since HK seems to have forgotten the full auto switch on the MR223.

PBR, can you post a pic of your brake?
 
Plumbers Teflon Tape

easy said:
I mean, plumbing/barrel ... OK .... but Teflon Tape?? C'mon .... no offense. :) Maybe some kind of compound like LockTite.

Try a Smith Enterprises Vortex Flash Eliminator. It tightens with every shot fired because the flutes face to the right and the rifling in an AR barrel faces left.
Click to expand...

I have been using teflon tape to tighten and index brakes on CZ 858's for years.A crush washer is problematic because of the spring index pin.

The tape stays tight in spite of heat and is resistant to cleaners. :D

:ar15:
swingerlh.gif
 
22Short_Improved said:
stay away from smith enterprise bulls**t . MR223 has a different thread altogether . The bushing you are talking about is the crush washer . If you cannot assemble it to sit tight , then go back to Joe Dlask and he will assemble it for you . do not forget generally you do not have more than one chance to correctly assemble it - crush washers are single use , not multiple use .
Click to expand...

How did you come to your opinion on SE Vortex???? do tell am very very curious
 
Dsiwy said:
How did you come to your opinion on SE Vortex???? do tell am very very curious
Click to expand...

novan3 said:
What makes the vortex bs exactly?
Click to expand...
The hype about it when compared with the reality , as seen in army test results . Thats what makes it . And the fact that it became such a cliche with so many people mindlessly putting a vortex on ANYTHING no matter what , when there are so many other better ( and nicer ) choices out there . You can find the military opinion about the vortex even on the SE website .


AND , as i said in my other post , THE MR223 HAS A DIFFERENT MUZZLE THREAD THAN WHAT YOU ARE USING ON YOUR AR-15 .

To my limited knowledge , Smith E does not make a vortex FH with that thread AND that is designed for 223 or 5.56 .

And BTW , the OP was about a muzzle brake , NOT ABOUT FH . Why should he switch to a FH anyway ?
 
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