Mounting and Sighting In Questions

[HammerHand]

While waiting for my PAL to come in the mail (and rubbing my hands together in anticipation!) I've been doing a bit of reading and research - but I still have questions I can't find answers to... even after "Google"-ing them.

Putting aside Weaver vs. Redfield vs. Picatinny - it looks like there are different mounts for different rifles. How do I know which one to get? It looks to me like there are some rifles that will take one and two piece mounts. I'm guessing the one piece mounts are a little more stable/accurate - right?

As for sighting in - do I really need a laser bore sighter? Couldn't I just skip it and fire a few more rounds instead of spending $30 on something I might use a couple times a year?

Is it okay to sight in a brand new rifle that you're also breaking in or should you break in the rifle and sight in the scope after?

Thanks in advance for helping a newb.

I know I might be overthinking this a bit - but I'd really like it if I was the weakest link, not my rifle/scope. I'd like the rifle/scope to be as perfect as is reasonably possible, so I can work on fixing me and the way I shoot instead of fixing the rifle and scope, and the way they shoot. I figure the better I get, the better results I'll get out of any decent rifle.

 

[rboomsma]

Putting aside Weaver vs. Redfield vs. Picatinny - it looks like there are different mounts for different rifles. How do I know which one to get? It looks to me like there are some rifles that will take one and two piece mounts. I'm guessing the one piece mounts are a little more stable/accurate - right?

Had redfield one piece on my rifle (Browning), went to a new 50mm scope so I switched to weaver two piece mounts and was very dissapointed. Took it all off and went to redfield one piece mount and steel rings. I prefer the one piece mount, I feel it is stronger. Weaver rings are very cheap also.


As for sighting in - do I really need a laser bore sighter? Couldn't I just skip it and fire a few more rounds instead of spending $30 on something I might use a couple times a year?

Had my gun laser sighted by Wanstalls and it was so far off it took me alamost a box of shells to get it to hit a large target at 50 yards. So using a bore sighter to me is a waist of time and money. Besides scopes are set by the manufacture anyways, so you should hit a 50 yard target some where.

Is it okay to sight in a brand new rifle that you're also breaking in or should you break in the rifle and sight in the scope after?

Should not make any difference.

Thanks in advance for helping a newb.

QUOTE]

 

[stubblejumper]

Had my gun laser sighted by Wanstalls and it was so far off it took me alamost a box of shells to get it to hit a large target at 50 yards. So using a bore sighter to me is a waist of time and money. Besides scopes are set by the manufacture anyways, so you should hit a 50 yard target some where.

I use an optical bore sighter by Bushnell.and I am always on paper at 100 yards with the first shot.In the almost 30 years that I have owned the bore sighter,I have likely used it well over 200 or 300 times on my rifles and friends rifles.As such,it has paid for itself many times over in ammunition saved.I have seen several instances where a new scope was mounted,and was not on the paper at 50 yards.

 

[snoopycda]

set your target at 25 yards and shoot once at center. hold the rifle tightly on point of aim. while you watch through the scope, have a buddy adjust your windage then your elevation to point of impact. move out to th one hundred yard target and repeat the process, with your elevation about 1 1/2-2" above point of aim. shoot three rounds for group to be sure and you are done.

 

[dan belisle]

I use one as well, but I find that the mounting set up and size of the scope effect the line up of the whole affair. Also, bore sighters (at least the good ones) can be adjusted so once you have your rifle set up varify it on the center of the bore sighter, adjust the bore sighter accordingly, and you will be quite close thereafter. Regarding the mounts, I've had just about every type at one time or another. The mounts are designed to fit a certain rifle, when you buy them you tell the sales person your rifle make, type, caliber, and they sell you what is labeled as the correct mount. Steel vs. aluminum, two piece vs one piece, etc etc, are all questions that only you can really answer. For a hunting rifle, and for easier access to the loading port two piece mounts work well. I have never had an issue with Weaver mounts, and have had them on rilfes up to and including a lightweight 340 Wby, so if mounted properly they are certainly strong enough. If it is a "tacticool" build, then a multi slotted (could be Picatinny, but doesn't have to be. You can use Weaver type rings in a Picatinny mount, but not the other way around) mount is handy to get the proper eye relief on a big scope. I like Burris insert rings, they don't mar scope surfaces. Yes, you can spend hundreds and hundreds on the latest most super coolest military drag it through the mud sniper rifle tactical rings mounts, and if that's what makes you happy go for it. Won't make you or your rifle shoot any better though. Good luck. - dan