Evaporust is NOT an acid, it is a chelating agent. Completely non-toxic and non-corrosive.
Ok, it is not acid, but what the dickens is a chelating agent and how does it work?
It is an organic compound that can form a chemical bond with certain metals. In the case of Evaporust, the chelate (the combined molecule with the iron oxide) then precipitates out of the solution.
Other examples of chelating cleaners are MPro-7 and KG-12 Copper Cleaner.
This is from an Evaporust website:
Rusted Shut
- Thread starter 4ron
- Start date
Medical science has shown that the vast majority of stomach ulcers are from a bacterial infection of sorts. Can be cured now with antibiotics. Didn't know that when I had one years ago.
Learn something new everyday
Thanks for the education Sandroad. I will pick me some up Evaporust the next time I am in crappytire, I`ll try it out. Would it take rust stains out of clothing?
Thanks for the education Sandroad. I will pick me some up Evaporust the next time I am in crappytire, I`ll try it out. Would it take rust stains out of clothing?
this really works ,i've done it to old motors it's like magic it only take about a week or so.
I'm sure it would. However for clothing, you might want to try something that contains sodium bisulfite, one product is called Iron Out, usually available at Home Hardware or TSC. Used for removing iron stains due to iron in water. I have found it also works well on surface stains, and it will work faster than Evaporust.
That is because Coke (and many soft drinks) contain phosphoric acid...... That is what is removing/converting the rust.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Well, if you ever get to the point you want to give up, and pitch the old relic, drop me a PM, I'd like a crack at it too.
The only place that I've seen it in the Lower Mainland is Reliable Gun & Tackle in Vancouver. (CanAm- any suggestions?) Might be worth an e-mail to Kano Labs (Kroil mfr.) to see who distributes it in Canada. I now get mine from Hardware Sales in Bellingham, WA (hardwaresales.net- an AMAZING hardware store) but it's convenient for me as my gf lives in Bellingham and I'm there regularly. I'm surprised that it isn't more widely available because it's an excellent product. Pretty good bore cleaner, too.
Stuartstickhunter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Victoria, B.C.
The only place that I've seen it in the Lower Mainland is Reliable Gun & Tackle in Vancouver. (CanAm- any suggestions?) Might be worth an e-mail to Kano Labs (Kroil mfr.) to see who distributes it in Canada. I now get mine from Hardware Sales in Bellingham, WA (hardwaresales.net- an AMAZING hardware store) but it's convenient for me as my gf lives in Bellingham and I'm there regularly. I'm surprised that it isn't more widely available because it's an excellent product. Pretty good bore cleaner, too.
Thanks for the tip on Reliable... yet another reason to visit there the next time I'm in Vancouver!
I was very surprised by the limited availability of Kroil since it gets referred to frequently on forums for uses spanning firearms to machinery/drilling to you name it. It seems pretty ubiquitous in the US and almost unknown in my part of Canada.
Coke has a percentage of phosphoric acid which neutralizes rust its also linked to loss of bone density in people that consume large quantities of it.
yup, that will work. Ed's Red also works very well as a penetrating oil. The best I have used is a 50-50 mix of synthetic motor oil and paint thinner and it is the cheapest to make.
All 3 of the above work much better than Kroil, which is basically a mix of oil and kerosene.
I'm surprised that no one has suggested melting all natural beeswax into the seized parts.
Use only enough heat to melt/liquify the wax and let it run though the action.
You will find you can also wipe off a lot of surface rust using the same method.
(BTW most hardware store toilet bowl wax replacement rings are pure beeswax)
Use only enough heat to melt/liquify the wax and let it run though the action.
You will find you can also wipe off a lot of surface rust using the same method.
(BTW most hardware store toilet bowl wax replacement rings are pure beeswax)
I have used nothing but KROIL to clean my rifle barrels for the past nine or ten years.
Amazing stuff, just a few passes with a patch when I get back home after each range session, two clean patches to get the fouling out, and one more Kroiled patch to store the rifle. Zero metal or powder fouling since I started using it!
Okay, back to the OP, how about those pictures?
Ted
Amazing stuff, just a few passes with a patch when I get back home after each range session, two clean patches to get the fouling out, and one more Kroiled patch to store the rifle. Zero metal or powder fouling since I started using it!
Okay, back to the OP, how about those pictures?
Ted
As has been said - electrolysis and Evaporust!
Cleaned the outside of my old win 94 with evaporust and inside with electrolysis.
1) evaporust is odourless and non toxic. That means you can use it anywhere with little concern about fumes. It stripped my win 94 parts down to grey metal, very nice If you want to leave the parts after stripping, don't wash them off - in fact leave them coated in Evaporust and toss them in the oven. The solution will film a sticky film on them that will stop them from rusting before you can reblue them.
2) Electrolysis for cleaning junker bores is amazing. The same win 94 had a completely junk barrel. No rifling, dirty as sin, completely finished. Scrubbed it by hand for a long time with no results. Ran an electro-cleaner in it for 3 15 minute sessions and it has rifling! (not much admittedly, but it's shootable now).
Cleaned the outside of my old win 94 with evaporust and inside with electrolysis.
1) evaporust is odourless and non toxic. That means you can use it anywhere with little concern about fumes. It stripped my win 94 parts down to grey metal, very nice
If you want to leave the parts after stripping, don't wash them off - in fact leave them coated in Evaporust and toss them in the oven. The solution will film a sticky film on them that will stop them from rusting before you can reblue them.2) Electrolysis for cleaning junker bores is amazing. The same win 94 had a completely junk barrel. No rifling, dirty as sin, completely finished. Scrubbed it by hand for a long time with no results. Ran an electro-cleaner in it for 3 15 minute sessions and it has rifling! (not much admittedly, but it's shootable now).
