20 gauge questions (choke diameters and more steel shot questions)

TheCoachZed

TheCoachZed

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Southern NB, aka "Canada's Bible Belt"
Hey guys

I have a 20 gauge single shot I picked up this summer. It's a "Ranger," so I assume it's some cheap store brand made for Sears.

I plan on shooting some steel through it*, because I have a couple boxes of #6 steel around that I bought for $4 at C-Tire (score!). If I scratch the barrel, big deal. I was just wondering if the same restrictions (#4s or smaller) apply to 20 gauge as apply to 12 gauges and full chokes, OR if there is further restriction due to the smaller bore.

I was ALSO wondering, if I wanted to trim the end of the barrel a bit to open the choke up to improved choke, what diameter am I looking to trim to? I know a dime will pass through a 12 gauge IC, but what about a 20 gauge?

We need a steel shot stickie!

*Only because I want to take a couple friends out for ducks who don't have their own shotguns. I have a Winchester 1300 that I use myself, usually.
 
If you aren't too attached to the gun, why not lop off 2 inches or so of barrel to completely remove the choke. #6 steel is analogous to #8 lead and so should only be used under 25 yards for ducks, at that range choke the cylinder choke will greatly aid in good patterns, making it easier for a beginner.
 
First off you will never scratch a barrel with steel shot - the shot cup that contains the shot is very tough and fairly thick compared to lead shot shot cups - next, find somebody in your area with a lathe - machine shop sure but I'm sure there are a lot of hobbyists that could do the job - open the end of the barrel up by .015 and all is well for steel shot and you've got a good bird gun as well - cheap shotguns have tapered chokes, the good ones have cylindrical chokes - I could go on Oz
 
More - probably a couple of boxes of steel will not hurt anything - when the steel shot reaches the choke it takes a bit more pressure to push it through the choke, hence the ring bulge just ahead of the choke after a while - ever seen a ring bulge anyone ?? just make sure the cartridges conform to the chamber length !
Oz
 
IMHO you need to keep your single shot for anything else but waterfowl hunting. #6 steel shot is inadequate for hunting ducks or geese; it sheds velocity very quickly, being much less dense than lead. The minimum effective steel shot size for ducks is #3 (and that for ducks over decoys). It is also doubtful your shotgun is suitable for steel shot use; a bulged or split barrel is a real possibility. I won't even get into the limitations/ frustrations of hunting waterfowl with a single shot. Do yourself a favor and pick up a used pump shotgun (such as a Remington 870). The good news is that inexpensive pump shotguns are readily available; if you find one with a screw-in choke system all the better.
 
Shootshellz said:
IMHO you need to keep your single shot for anything else but waterfowl hunting. #6 steel shot is inadequate for hunting ducks or geese; it sheds velocity very quickly, being much less dense than lead. The minimum effective steel shot size for ducks is #3 (and that for ducks over decoys). It is also doubtful your shotgun is suitable for steel shot use; a bulged or split barrel is a real possibility. I won't even get into the limitations/ frustrations of hunting waterfowl with a single shot. Do yourself a favor and pick up a used pump shotgun (such as a Remington 870). The good news is that inexpensive pump shotguns are readily available; if you find one with a screw-in choke system all the better.
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1). I have a pump shotgun that shoots steel just fine. I just wanted to use the 20 myself so I could give friends a shot at duck hunting.

2). I know plenty of people who have hunted ducks with a single shot. I've hunted crows with one before. I'm fully aware of their limitations.

3). #3 steel is not the minimum for duck hunting. I knocked down ducks with #4 last year, including some pretty big sea ducks. I know lots of other guys are using #5s and either #6 over decoys. I wouldn't go out and buy more #6, but I have some, so I am going to shoot it. Why waste it?
 
One of the members here has a video of him shooting a single shot shotgun, and the entire choke end of the barrel gets broken off when he fires it.

Forget about the bead, it's a distraction. Not required.

Open the choke to something like IC or light Modified. #6 may be fine for teal over decoys, but it's really limited in it's capability, I think.
 
The choke will be of the swagged style so reaming it is not really the way to correct the issue cut back about 3/4'' from the muzzle and you will be fine .
 
Shootshellz said:
IMHO you need to keep your single shot for anything else but waterfowl hunting. #6 steel shot is inadequate for hunting ducks or geese; it sheds velocity very quickly, being much less dense than lead. The minimum effective steel shot size for ducks is #3 (and that for ducks over decoys).
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Size 3 shot is quite effective on ducks but 4's are definetly viable aswell, if you go by the old mantra, increase 2 sizes when using steel then 4 are analougus to lead 6's which is what most people shot for years. Also alot of people particularly on the east coast who only have to deal with teal and the occasional Black duck shot 7 1/2's and found they worked quite well.

Steel is a whole different ball game when compared to lead, pattern density is a much greater consideration, this is the reason some people stick with steel 3's for geese or 6's for ducks. Your average twice a year hunter is better of with BB's or 2's for ducks as he will engage anything within range.
 
I've tried steal number 6's and aside from the fastest loads they aren't enough to produce consistant kills on ducks except in some situations. I'm assuming that you have 3" loads so its probably 1 oz or 7/8 oz at about 1300fps, these make terrific partridge loads and I like what they do to ducks when I hunt small beaver ponds, but there are better loads out there for waterfowl in the 20 guage.
 
JamesM said:
I've tried steal number 6's and aside from the fastest loads they aren't enough to produce consistant kills on ducks except in some situations. I'm assuming that you have 3" loads so its probably 1 oz or 7/8 oz at about 1300fps, these make terrific partridge loads and I like what they do to ducks when I hunt small beaver ponds, but there are better loads out there for waterfowl in the 20 guage.
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Duly noted.
 
CoachZed: Guess you and I will have to respectfully disagree. You can brush your teeth with baking soda and salt using a toothpick if you want but that does not mean it is the preferred tool for the job, IMHO. When I hunt I am interested in killing ducks immediately, not having them sail away wounded towards the horizon, thus my #3 steel shot minimum rule. Smaller steel shot just does not have the punch for consistently reliable one shot kills. And if I do wound a bird (as we all do) I want a fast follow-up shot to put it away pronto before it even thinks about diving or flapping away out of range; that is why I won't hunt with a single shot. Best of luck to you this season.
 
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