AR gas tube question

_-Ghost-_

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I see AR-15s everywhere that have the factory front sight removed. Usually when a quad rail for grip is installed. Heres the question. How can the factory front sight be removed, without interrupting the function of the gas tube?
 
The front sight assembly is part of the gas block. The front sight mount itself can be cut off the gas block, or the gas block can be replaced. There are various gas blocks available. Some are streamlined, others have a single rail on top so a front sight can be mounted, others have enough rails to warm the heart of any mirror kommando. In conjunction with a quadrail forend, enough shzt can be hung on the rifle to make it really look kewl.
 
The front sight assembly is part of the gas block. The front sight mount itself can be cut off the gas block, or the gas block can be replaced. There are various gas blocks available. Some are streamlined, others have a single rail on top so a front sight can be mounted, others have enough rails to warm the heart of any mirror kommando. In conjunction with a quadrail forend, enough shzt can be hung on the rifle to make it really look kewl.

Thanks alot!. I didnt want to take the dremel to anything without knowing for sure.
 
Here's a site that I chopped and then had re-parkerized for use under a free-floating rail system.
IMG_4969.jpg

It's a preferred method rather than the set-screw gas tubes because the original sights are pinned (taper pinned in this case).

*the 'handguard cap' you see there wouldn't be used under a floating rail, it's just there because it was there originally (part of the package).
 
Thanks... the trick is hand tools (files and sandpaper) :)
You can control so much when you are doing it one pass at a time.
 
Something to consider - if you cut down the original, restoration is a real pain. If you replace the original with a low unit, the original can always be re-installed.
And forget the stupid Dremel.
 
Something to consider - if you cut down the original, restoration is a real pain. If you replace the original with a low unit, the original can always be re-installed.

And forget the stupid Dremel.

1) You are correct about cutting it down.

2) Frankly, you are either inexperienced when it comes to gunsmithing, ignorant, stupid, or a combination.

It amazes me how many people say "forget using a dremel", "throw that dremel in the trash", etc... I see it all the time on forums across the world.

Maybe you've never met a professional-high-end gunsmith, but virtually ALL OF THEM that I've ever met (which is a lot) have and use dremel's.

That's not to say that people don't do stupid things with dremel's and their guns; because people do some of the most retarded things with them. However, I can be a useful tool, right up their with Akansas & ceramic stone's.

Anyway, I had to put that out there... Don't mean to offend anyone, but it seems like everyone thinks that dremels are bad.
 
1) You are correct about cutting it down.

2) Frankly, you are either inexperienced when it comes to gunsmithing, ignorant, stupid, or a combination.

It amazes me how many people say "forget using a dremel", "throw that dremel in the trash", etc... I see it all the time on forums across the world.

Maybe you've never met a professional-high-end gunsmith, but virtually ALL OF THEM that I've ever met (which is a lot) have and use dremel's.

That's not to say that people don't do stupid things with dremel's and their guns; because people do some of the most retarded things with them. However, I can be a useful tool, right up their with Akansas & ceramic stone's.

Anyway, I had to put that out there... Don't mean to offend anyone, but it seems like everyone thinks that dremels are bad.

I am neither inexperienced, ignorant, stupid, or a combination thereof.

The OP obviously has a limited knowledge of how the AR gas block is configured, and a Dremel can do a lot of harm in seconds. There is little need for using a power tool to do this job, particularly if the individual is inexperienced. Careful use of a hacksaw and files could result in a superior job with less likelihood of a botched job.

I do find your comment to be utterly ignorant and offensive.
 
:D Put the gun down and step away from the Dremmel, I always say.

They can be a time saver for sure, but do some major damage fast if you're not VERY careful. Most kitchen gunsmiths are not. The OP is obviously not a smith, so suggesting to stay away from a Dremmel is well advised in this case.

Every smith I know has one, yes, but what they use it for, if they do at all, is a different story.

Secondly, I wouldn't buy a Dremmel brand, they are cheap and burn out quickly.
 
I like my dremmel.......


But I have seen some bubba jobs that just make me want to cry, for the love of god if you dont know what your doing dont just start hacking away.

Hell you should just grab the oxy/acylene and giver'er :D
 
I am neither inexperienced, ignorant, stupid, or a combination thereof.

The OP obviously has a limited knowledge of how the AR gas block is configured, and a Dremel can do a lot of harm in seconds. There is little need for using a power tool to do this job, particularly if the individual is inexperienced. Careful use of a hacksaw and files could result in a superior job with less likelihood of a botched job.

I do find your comment to be utterly ignorant and offensive.
Well then you should have said THAT! That is a good & correct response and certainly better than "OMG!! THE SKY IS FALLING!!!!! DON'T TOUCH DREMEL! THE SKY IS FALLING!!!!!!!!!" :)

I think that stressing to people that no matter how you do x job, as long as you take your time it will pay off.

Anyway my $0.02


Secondly, I wouldn't buy a Dremmel brand, they are cheap and burn out quickly.
Agree... I like Black & Decker's version much better... Lasts a lot of time.
 
Yeah, don't use your Dremel, it takes way too long. I used my angle grinder.

The front sight base is what, a $30 part? If you bugger it up, big deal.

IMG_0693Medium-1.jpg
 
Yeah, don't use your Dremel, it takes way too long. I used my angle grinder.

I like that idea. With a cut off wheel, you have better control just because of the grinder's size. :)

Things must have changed. My dremel is going on twenty years old and has seen a lot of hard use, no problem.

It's also the tool I used to cut down my FSB. Using hand tools is for mennonites.

Yeah ... They don't like high speed. Mine overheated with extended use and eventually cooked. Moved onto an RTX now. It was less money :). I use it heavily for buffing mostly and light cutting duties like cross sectioning cases.

OP, :redface: pardon the highjack.
 
Yeah, don't use your Dremel, it takes way too long. I used my angle grinder.

The front sight base is what, a $30 part? If you bugger it up, big deal.

IMG_0693Medium-1.jpg

lol...

Well, as long as your kinda careful..

But yeah, front sight bases are normally ~$30 new, you can normally get them used for $10-$20... I actually just bought a few today (local gun store had some "recycles", parts that were replaced on customers rifles that then get offered at discount); Anyway, cant beat $10/ea... great for building new uppers with stripped barrels.
 
Removing a Norc front sight/gas block will probably require a Dremel anyway - the taper pins are pressed in with what seems to be a "very big" industrial grade, super duty, 100 ton, hydraulic press by the Chinese equivalent of 'Bubba with a 1 ton 4x4' - there's a very strong chance you'll need to cut the thing off. You would be better off reshaping the original on a Norc - it's highly unlikely it will ever move once installed by the factory.
 
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