Norinco M4 review/mods (cqb reference)

I had a spare Spikes battle trigger that I threw into mine...single stage and quite nice comparatively speaking...
 
I just ran a norc M4gery on the adler tac carbine course and it worked like a bloody charm, not one issue after about 800 smashing into prone run hard put away wet rounds in 2 days.

frankly this gun blew my mind running cheap 55 gr S&B/Wolf ammo the practical accuracy is great. And the trigger went from creepy and heavy to nice and smooth. I ran the lower without lube to help it break in and the BCG with a thin layer of grease.
 
Can anyone give me advice on how to sight in the Norinco m4 or direct me to an appropriate thread?? I just recieved mine last friday, cleaned it to the best of my abilities and knowledge (very limited), took it to the range on sunday and tried to sight it in (correct terminology??) ended up shooting 400 rounds and confusing the hell out of myself. I believe i got the rifle shooting somewhat straight but i had to adjust the rear sight all the way to the right to accomplish this (and it still seems it is shooting a tad to the left when i am aiming at the center of the target). Also there are three issues that i think are adding to my problems.
1) I have a cheapo set of binoculars that barely allow me to see bullet holes at 50 yards
2) I am not the only one shooting. At least three other people are always present with itchy trigger fingers
3) I am a noob. This is the first time i have fired a rifle

any advice would be greatly appreciated and sorry again for my noobness
 
Can anyone give me advice on how to sight in the Norinco m4 or direct me to an appropriate thread?? I just recieved mine last friday, cleaned it to the best of my abilities and knowledge (very limited), took it to the range on sunday and tried to sight it in (correct terminology??) ended up shooting 400 rounds and confusing the hell out of myself. I believe i got the rifle shooting somewhat straight but i had to adjust the rear sight all the way to the right to accomplish this (and it still seems it is shooting a tad to the left when i am aiming at the center of the target). Also there are three issues that i think are adding to my problems.
1) I have a cheapo set of binoculars that barely allow me to see bullet holes at 50 yards
2) I am not the only one shooting. At least three other people are always present with itchy trigger fingers
3) I am a noob. This is the first time i have fired a rifle

any advice would be greatly appreciated and sorry again for my noobness

You don't need binos.

Step 1.
Get a large piece of cardboard with no holes, masking tape and a heavy duty T50 stapler or thumb tacks. A solid front rest is great too. Sandbags works, or get one of these.
opplanet-caldwell-deadshot-front-and-rear-bags.png


Step 2.
At 50 yards pin up your cardboard. Draw or paint a bullseye big enough to see at 50 yards.
Rest the front of you gun on the bags and use your left hand to stabilize the rear butt stock.
s7_225831_imageset_02


Step 3.

Lower the rear sight to were you want your "zero" to be.

Step 4.
Take 2 shots aiming for bullseye. Walk down range and inspect the target. They should be close together. Use the masking tape to cover the holes. If high move the front sight pin UP or loosen it (lefty loosy, righty tighty). If low move the front sight DOWN or tighten it. Once you have your elevation set go to step 5.

Step 5.
At this point your elevation should be set. On your rear sight you will have a windage knob. Off the top[ of my head I can't remember which way to turn it but it should say left or right with an arrow pointing in that direction. If you are adjusting your read sight left means change your point of impact left, and right changes the point of impact right.

This should make it easy to "zero".

50 yards is a good zero. If you want to shoot 100 or 200 yards use you elevation knob on the rear sight. On the knob if it indicates up your are moving the point of impact up.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, just typing this off the top of my head.
 
That was a really good description. You covered it, but I will just highlight one thing that I found confusing when I first started:

You move the front sight OPPOSITE to where you want the point of impact to be (i.e. the gun is shooting left, move the front sight further left and the point of impact will move right.

You move the rear sight in the SAME direction as you want the point of impact to move (i.e. you want the POI to move right, adjust the knob to the right).



You don't need binos.

Step 1.
Get a large piece of cardboard with no holes, masking tape and a heavy duty T50 stapler or thumb tacks. A solid front rest is great too. Sandbags works, or get one of these.
opplanet-caldwell-deadshot-front-and-rear-bags.png


Step 2.
At 50 yards pin up your cardboard. Draw or paint a bullseye big enough to see at 50 yards.
Rest the front of you gun on the bags and use your left hand to stabilize the rear butt stock.
s7_225831_imageset_02


Step 3.

Lower the rear sight to were you want your "zero" to be.

Step 4.
Take 2 shots aiming for bullseye. Walk down range and inspect the target. They should be close together. Use the masking tape to cover the holes. If high move the front sight pin UP or loosen it (lefty loosy, righty tighty). If low move the front sight DOWN or tighten it. Once you have your elevation set go to step 5.

Step 5.
At this point your elevation should be set. On your rear sight you will have a windage knob. Off the top[ of my head I can't remember which way to turn it but it should say left or right with an arrow pointing in that direction. If you are adjusting your read sight left means change your point of impact left, and right changes the point of impact right.

This should make it easy to "zero".

50 yards is a good zero. If you want to shoot 100 or 200 yards use you elevation knob on the rear sight. On the knob if it indicates up your are moving the point of impact up.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, just typing this off the top of my head.
 
That was a really good description. You covered it, but I will just highlight one thing that I found confusing when I first started:

You move the front sight OPPOSITE to where you want the point of impact to be (i.e. the gun is shooting left, move the front sight further left and the point of impact will move right.

You move the rear sight in the SAME direction as you want the point of impact to move (i.e. you want the POI to move right, adjust the knob to the right).

Exactly, with the front sight if you are shooting high, move the sight up and visa-versa.
 
Magnified optics will improve your score in cqb (if your doing your part), just for the fact of being able to see the v ring better. A NCstar optic i would stay far, far, far away from. Honestly just get a Vortex red dot. Mine is the Sparc (2moa dot) i got it for $240 shipped, there is also the Strikefire (4moa dot/make sure its the one with the ar 15 rings) for a little under $200 shipped. Grouse river outfitters is the only dealer i know that CURRENTLY carries Vortex optics. Search the sparc on, ar15 . com........you will be very surprised :D

Checked the reviews on AR15 site and they're looks great. Do you mind tell me how to get the $240 shipped deal? They're listed $239.99 on Grouse river website. After tax + shipping, it would be more than $240.

I'm more towards Strikefire right now as it's looks better to me. :) But don't know how 2 moa vs 4 moa makes difference in real world specifically in the cqb match?
 
No.

They've been coming on strong for 2.5-3 yrs now. Most but not all of their stuff gets good reviews.

I picked up a StrikeFire from WSS today, under $180. Looks good, quality is way up from other low-ish end stuff I looked at today. I need a low ring (CZ858) so if you have one and need a high for an AR shoot me a PM. Range test tomorrow.

Which store is WSS?
 
Checked the reviews on AR15 site and they're looks great. Do you mind tell me how to get the $240 shipped deal? They're listed $239.99 on Grouse river website. After tax + shipping, it would be more than $240.

I'm more towards Strikefire right now as it's looks better to me. :) But don't know how 2 moa vs 4 moa makes difference in real world specifically in the cqb match?

I might have gotten it when there was a free shipping special or something like that.....can't remember it was a while ago :p The strikefire is also an excellent red dot. My partner uses one in CQB and can keep up with me. The only difference being the different in dot sizes, the sparc being 2moa, and the strikefire being 4moa. It really doesn't make a difference at close range but at 100 yards the sparc will only cover 2 inches of the target, and the strikefire will cover 4 inches.
 
did anyone have problems with replacing the front handguard.i bought a magpull (moe?) and @ the same time got a set of tapco handguard pliers.

after much cursing and several hours i whipped out the dremmel and trimmed/chamfered the front part of the lower handguard (polymer).

it fits now but could still use some work @ the rear too.

caveat emptor,the handguard is not "drop-in",@ least not mine...

the flash suppressor was not vey tight,it was easily removed.

my front sight pin looks crooked/bent.

i replaced the charging handle w/ a spikes tactical.

my trigger was great right out of the box.

the "park" is kinda thin...
 
did anyone have problems with replacing the front handguard.i bought a magpull (moe?) and @ the same time got a set of tapco handguard pliers.

after much cursing and several hours i whipped out the dremmel and trimmed/chamfered the front part of the lower handguard (polymer).

it fits now but could still use some work @ the rear too.

caveat emptor,the handguard is not "drop-in",@ least not mine...

the flash suppressor was not vey tight,it was easily removed.

my front sight pin looks crooked/bent.

i replaced the charging handle w/ a spikes tactical.

my trigger was great right out of the box.

the "park" is kinda thin...
Yes, unfortunately the hand guard length isn't quite mil spec (6.5") it is actually something like (6.25").......i guess the Chinese are using alpha or beta rings rather then delta :p Luckily for me the tufforce drop in rail i have on mine is made for the 6.25" length :D As for the flash hider....it works...but it looks bad, had to put the dlask pws compensator copy on mine ($80shipped) one of the best break/compensator combos on the market.
 
No.

They've been coming on strong for 2.5-3 yrs now. Most but not all of their stuff gets good reviews.

I picked up a StrikeFire from WSS today, under $180. Looks good, quality is way up from other low-ish end stuff I looked at today. I need a low ring (CZ858) so if you have one and need a high for an AR shoot me a PM. Range test tomorrow.

Do you mind share some thoughts on StrikeFire when you back from range?
 
Great post pobcat.

My Norinco CQ 556 is arriving next week.

Can anyone tell me if it is possiable to convert it to shoot 9mm. And what is required to do so. I think you would just change the upper out but what about the mag well. Is there a mag well drop in adapter. And finally where and which is the best brand.

Has anyone changed the upper to 7.62x36?
Marstar has one on their website:
http://www.marstar.ca/ac-AR-15/index.shtm goes for $879.
They also did a youtube it does look good to shoot cheap ammo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjM5dk9ydHQ
 
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