Grouse and Pheasant

[Mount Sweetness]

In 20ga over flushing dogs I prefer 3in #5's, take down more birds clean.

 

[diemaco]

I've been using 20g 1oz loads of no. 6 for grouse/rabbit. Seems to be a decent compromise.

 

[Claybuster]

For grouse in cover I use 24 gram #7.5 target loads with open choke. Preserve pheasants #6 shot in either 1 ounce of 1-1/8 with moderate choke. Wild pheasants, tighter choke and #5 in 1-1/8 to 1-1/4.

 

[mikepos]

I like #6 in a modified choke for grouse here in NB, maybe out partridge are warier here? They flush quite early by times.

 

[jethunter]

I use 7.5 for early season roughed grouse and switch to #6 later when the birds can flush further out. Sharptails can be hard to get close on before they flush, there's been times i wished i had heavy #4 shells and a full choke.

For pheasant i like #4 or #5 because our birds tend to flush fairly early.

 

[Estano]

So, it sounds like I should go with with 4's or 5's if I'm using steel shot, and 5's or 6's with lead. Does this seem to be a good general rule? I think I'll mostly use steel.

 

[jethunter]

So, it sounds like I should go with with 4's or 5's if I'm using steel shot, and 5's or 6's with lead. Does this seem to be a good general rule? I think I'll mostly use stee.

If you are shooting some ducks or geese you have to use steel because it's the law. #2 or #4 steel shot is good for ducks.

But if you are not hunting waterfowl you can use lead, and you should use lead because it has better range and is more effective than steel. #5 or #6 lead shot would be good for combination hunt for pheasant and grouse.

 

[LarryG]

If you have a basic single shot in 12 gauge, I suggest avoiding 3" shells. They kick pretty hard. Slug shells of any length kick pretty hard too on a single shot.

I found that a 2-3/4" #7-1/2 1-1/8 oz load works very well for a non flying shot. Aiming above the head within 20 yds with a full choke should only hit the head, leaving the meat intact. Of course you can achieve a similar result with other shot sizes as well. Just do a few practice shots before starting on cardboard so you can be confident where your gun is hitting.

 

[Win/64]

If you have a basic single shot in 12 gauge, I suggest avoiding 3" shells. They kick pretty hard. Slug shells of any length kick pretty hard too on a single shot.

I have never tried slugs for upland Hunting. What's your kill ratio?

 

[Estano]

This little thunderstick kicks pretty hard with 2 3/4" #7 1/2 shells. I'm glad to hear 3" won't be needed. The bruise on my shoulder tells me it really doesn't want to shoot 3" shells or slugs any more than necessary

 

[pharaoh2]

You might consider installing a good recoil pad. I know those single shots with the plastic butt plate kicks pretty good. Really, you'll get used to it. To me, a shotgun is different then a rifle. A rifle tends to take more care, with more time thinking about the shot. They say you don't feel the recoil when shooting on game, but you still have to concentrate. With a shotgun, things are more 'sloppy'. You don't really have time to think, you just let things happen. Recoil is somthing I tend to think about after the fact with my shotgun, and I have developed a pretty nasty flinch with my rifle. Take care and have fun.

 

[Spike162]

If you are going after pheasant error on the heavy side, as others have said. Really important on years like this one when there is lots of ground cover. Remember too their tail is somtimes longer than the body, aim high. Good hunting!!!