I have a 6.5 AI, and the guy who improved it also cut an extra half a cal of freebore. I cannot get a bullet anywhere near the lands. With a 156 grain bullet crimped as long as the cartridge box, 3.200, it does not touch. I have not tried any loads that long, but plan to. Should I expect improvement over loads about 3" long?
Freebore and overall length
- Thread starter 22to45
- Start date
long loads
I have a Steyr Pro hunter in 6.5x55 that I cannot get near to the lands with the bullets I have tried. The Berger 140's are the longest I have shot and with Re 22 powder with an over all length of 3.203 gave me some very nice groups. FS
I have a Steyr Pro hunter in 6.5x55 that I cannot get near to the lands with the bullets I have tried. The Berger 140's are the longest I have shot and with Re 22 powder with an over all length of 3.203 gave me some very nice groups. FS
Hi. 6.5 what AI? .284? 6.5 x 55 AI? 6.5-06 AI?
In any case, if the cartridge doesn't fit in the mag of a hunting rifle, it's kind of useless. Fitting in the mag is more important. The bullet shouldn't actually touch the rifling anyway. Just off the rifling, but not touching.
In any case, if the cartridge doesn't fit in the mag of a hunting rifle, it's kind of useless. Fitting in the mag is more important. The bullet shouldn't actually touch the rifling anyway. Just off the rifling, but not touching.
Std military mag length should put you around 3.2". You can measure your "distance to lands" buy inserting the bullet you wish to use in the chamber and holding it into the lands with a dowel. Take a cleaning rod and slide it down the bore until it contacts the bullet, then mark the rod even with the muzzle. Remove the bullet and insert the bolt, then measure the length from the bolt face to the muzzle and mark on the rod again. Measure the distance between the two marks on the rod and you have your max col with that bullet for that rifle. That will give you a starting point for all your subsequent calculations. - dan
Best/easiest method there is IMO. Not many use it but I don't know why.
I keep a 1/4" wood dowel about 36" long for the purpose. I wrap some masking tape where I need to mark. I can then replace the tape when it gets too marked up. Works for me and IMO is very graphic and almost idiot proof - almost because the firing pin should be cocked and the dowel or rod end needs to clear the extractor claw or ejector pin etc. (depending on bolt face design) to be actually on the bolt face. It's easy peasy though.
The first thing you need to determine is your bullet of choice, then see just how far off the lands it is at magazine length. If it shoots very well as is, there's nothing else you need to do.
You could try a different bullet with less taper on the nose (like the Hornady 160 gr RN) - it's a least worth a try to see how it fits and shoots, before you do magazine work. If you still decide you need to increase the OAL, the next option is to increase the length of the magazine box which can be a simple job for a gun smith. I've done it for several mausers and found I can easily go from 3.200" to about 3.400".
You could try a different bullet with less taper on the nose (like the Hornady 160 gr RN) - it's a least worth a try to see how it fits and shoots, before you do magazine work. If you still decide you need to increase the OAL, the next option is to increase the length of the magazine box which can be a simple job for a gun smith. I've done it for several mausers and found I can easily go from 3.200" to about 3.400".
