shooting rolling blocks

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ratherbefishin

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I admit I like the old rolling blocks-got a very nice one in .22 short-probably 100 years old.Fun to shoot,too.

I've been looking over Tradexx's stock-they have a few nice 8x58r ''sporters''but I'm wondering if I want a ''shooter'' would I be better off to go to a modern Rolling Block[ie:pedersoli] just to be on the safe side-or am I ok to use the old ones,loaded down,of course?Could they be used for deer hunting at modest under 100 yard ranges?
 
I know that the old Swedish rollers were rebuilt with better blocks (improved heat-treating) and other parts, so those listed as Swede surplus can usually handle some decent hunting loads within reasonable limits. I have a .38-55 roller built on a blackpowder action, and it still has the large firing pin, so I only shoot blackpowder and lead through that beast. Even then, it still could easily hunt out to 150-200 metres, if I do my part with the iron sights. The 8x58r mm would probably work even better than the .38-55 for hunting at those ranges.
 
Last year Shotgun News did a great storey on these guns as well as reloading and shooting them. Said power was on par with 30/06 so deer should be no problem.
 
My 8x58R is a great gun. It is a sporter. I love shooting it. Mild recoil. Very accurate. Don't forget it is a slightly bigger projectile than most .30 caliber rifles.

I just got another in 50/70 that is also a fine gun. Used to be 12.7x44R. Can't wait to get a vernier sight mounted and try some long range shooting.

I would take either hunting. With a singe shot you just have to make that first one count.
 
I have a Husqvarna 9.3x57,so that got me into reloading,and reforming 8x57 brass into 9.3x57,I'm pretty cautious,but these Rolling blocks intrigue me.Theres a few horror stories about the old actions blowing up though,which was the reason for the question.I'd appreciate any personal experiance with these Tradexx rollers,how they shoot,what to watch for etc.
 
It's all good, but it depends on your expectations and how much you want to spend, I've done up a few orig. Remingtons with match barrels and new wood, but now, instead I would order a new one from Lone Star Rifles. They make the finest RBs by a mile, in whatever cal, you like, all to your specs, and all made in the USA.
 
no,I can't justify laying out that kind of money on myself-I'm just wanting to have something fun to shoot,and the RB's are sort of the opposette to semi automatics[which don't do anything to me]
I'd like something uncomplicated, easy to find brass and bullets for and easy for me to reload.I'd like it to be reasonably accurate out to 100 yards ,and the ability to make a humane kill on a deer.
The RB ''sporter''I'm looking at has a ''missing firing pin indicator''-is that serious-can it be safely used without it-or must it be replaced?
 
ratherbefishin said:
The RB ''sporter''I'm looking at has a ''missing firing pin indicator''-is that serious-can it be safely used without it-or must it be replaced?
Click to expand...

Are you sure it is a rolling block? The indicator sounds more like a martini action. You can see the pin on a rolling block by just looking at it. The other choice is that it is missing a firing pin; not hard to make one

cheers mooncoon
 
The converted/upgraded Danish RB's have an indicator on the firing pin that protrudes above the rear face of the breech block.

One thing really (really!) worth noting, is that the data in Cartridges of the World is incorrect for the Rolling Block. It was loaded to lower pressures for the Rolling Block, than for the Krag ammo, which also fits. Same case, lousy scenario if you decide to run the hotter ammo and don't stay lucky.

There is some really good info on loads for the Roller 8x58RD here. http://dutchman.rebooty.com/GB8x58RD.html

If it won't link in, a search for Dutchman 8x58RD should find the data as well.

Cheers
Trev
 
The firing pin indicator is missing on this RB-is it essential to be able to shoot with?The rifle is listed on Tradexx under Rolling Blocks#13925 as a ''1867/89''conversion
As I said-I'm more interested in a ''shooter'' than a ''collector''so the ''sporter'' model is fine by me-as long as I can shoot it!
 
I have full military Swedish Rolling Blocks in 12.7X44 and 8X58RD, and a sporter in 8X58RD. I have posted here and elsewhere on loading and shooting them, and have conversed with "Dutchman" and am friends with Galen Burgett the author of that article (he's a South Dakota boy and we meet once a year at the big Tulsa Oklahoma Gun Show).

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166111

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297254

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=22807

These are excellent guns and you can shoot them with confidence if you respect their 28K psi limit. The 8X58RD is not a 30-06! (but even at 28K psi can approach it due to its greater bore size and larger case).
 
ratherbefishin said:
The firing pin indicator is missing on this RB-is it essential to be able to shoot with?The rifle is listed on Tradexx under Rolling Blocks#13925 as a ''1867/89''conversion
As I said-I'm more interested in a ''shooter'' than a ''collector''so the ''sporter'' model is fine by me-as long as I can shoot it!
Click to expand...

It's not essential, and one could likely be found or fabricated. It indicates that the firing pin is in the rearward position, which confirms that it's not frozen forward such that an "unexpected out of battery firing" could occur if you forced the breechblock forward with extreme vigour (and you'd have to) on a loaded round. On older models, you manually check to ensure the firing pin is free before you fire it, and take measures (clean and lube) to ensure it's not gummed up. A bit like with semi-autos where it's routine maintenance.
 
My .45-70 BPCR type rifle is build on an 8x58RD action. Nice actions for the most part. Mine started life as a Carl Gustafs made in 1872.
 
I'm loading for and shooting a New York Remington rolling block in 50-70. Only black powder and lead but it is good fun. After 20 shots it is time to go to the 22 but the black and blue go away in a week or so. My load is 55gr of FFG and 450gr Lee bullet.
 
My 1869 Egyptian contract roller in 45/70 is just fine for deer with trapdoor loads.
I did upgrade the roller pins with modern steel to tighten it up a bit.
Rolly blocks are great guns.
 
Since I am not familiar with these 67/89 conversion 8x58r what would a comparable load be to other more familiar loads?From what I've been able to find out-pressure should not exceed 28,000psi for safety in these old actions[are the updated 89 conversions tradexx has able to handle any higher loads-ie:-30/30 equivilent?]
 
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ratherbefishin said:
Since I am not familiar with these 67/89 conversion 8x58r what would a comparable load be to other more familiar loads?From what I've been able to find out-pressure should not exceed 28,000psi for safety in these old actions[are the updated 89 conversions tradexx has able to handle any higher loads-ie:-30/30 equivilent?]
Click to expand...

There are rolling blocks chambered in 7x57. In the 1950s and 1960s there were guys who put 30/06 barrels on rollers as well. One of the indicators of excess pressure was the case head going "off square" because of the action stretching.
The check for this was to rotate a fired case 180 degrees and see if the action still closed on the fired case. If it closed and the hammer would not drop then the load was too hot by far for the rifle. I have gun magazines from the 1950s and '60s that describe some of the limits rollers have been pushed to.

One serious consideration and weak point is the chamber block. If it is cast or has a flaw or fault, it can come apart under pressure with nasty consequences. There is no fail safe to stop bits from hitting the shooter other than the hammer spur. Replacing the roller pins with modern steel solves any problems with the pins. And the action is elastic enough so that (if the chamber block does not fail) cases will deform when the pressure barrier is reached.
Beware, a rolling block that is loose (excess headspace) or has a chamber block that is out of square with the chamber will also bend cartridge heads as there is excess headspace at the top of the chamber.
 
Andy said:
It's not essential, and one could likely be found or fabricated. It indicates that the firing pin is in the rearward position, which confirms that it's not frozen forward such that an "unexpected out of battery firing" could occur if you forced the breechblock forward with extreme vigour (and you'd have to) on a loaded round. On older models, you manually check to ensure the firing pin is free before you fire it, and take measures (clean and lube) to ensure it's not gummed up. A bit like with semi-autos where it's routine maintenance.
Click to expand...

It isn't an indicator, it is a retractor. It was intended to snap the firing pin back as you opened the block, in the event that the pin was frozen. The cocking indicator function is merely a bonus. In any event, as you say, it isn't essential.
 
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