Poly M305 Vanilla Accuracy?
- Thread starter Wallaback
- Start date
Hey Claven,
I tried to do what you recommended to me, removed the trigger group and fired it for a bit to ease the trigger pull. However, while I did so, the little pin connecting the trigger with the rest of it just popped out, and I can't fully get it back in for the life of me.
Any recommendations?
I tried to do what you recommended to me, removed the trigger group and fired it for a bit to ease the trigger pull. However, while I did so, the little pin connecting the trigger with the rest of it just popped out, and I can't fully get it back in for the life of me.
Any recommendations?
Do you mean the little one that looks almost like a carpet nail with a head on it?
Did it pop all the way out, or just partially?
When the trigger group is in a rifle, that pin is held captive by the side of the stock. I should have probably mentioned it, but those pins can sometimes vibrate loose. I tend to keep a finger on mine when dry-firign the trigger group so it stays put.
As for getting it back in, if it's only partially out, you just push the trigger/sear forward to compress the hammer spring and using a soft-ish item like hte butt of a plastic screwdriver handle, give it a gentle tap to re-seat it.
If it's totally out, you need to compress the hammer spring enough to get the trigger back into position and then put the pin in. This can take three hands, so you might need a buddy to help you, or alternately, you can buy a special tool to do it, but that's expensive
Did it pop all the way out, or just partially?
When the trigger group is in a rifle, that pin is held captive by the side of the stock. I should have probably mentioned it, but those pins can sometimes vibrate loose. I tend to keep a finger on mine when dry-firign the trigger group so it stays put.
As for getting it back in, if it's only partially out, you just push the trigger/sear forward to compress the hammer spring and using a soft-ish item like hte butt of a plastic screwdriver handle, give it a gentle tap to re-seat it.
If it's totally out, you need to compress the hammer spring enough to get the trigger back into position and then put the pin in. This can take three hands, so you might need a buddy to help you, or alternately, you can buy a special tool to do it, but that's expensive
Do you mean the little one that looks almost like a carpet nail with a head on it?
Did it pop all the way out, or just partially?
When the trigger group is in a rifle, that pin is held captive by the side of the stock. I should have probably mentioned it, but those pins can sometimes vibrate loose. I tend to keep a finger on mine when dry-firign the trigger group so it stays put.
As for getting it back in, if it's only partially out, you just push the trigger/sear forward to compress the hammer spring and using a soft-ish item like hte butt of a plastic screwdriver handle, give it a gentle tap to re-seat it.
If it's totally out, you need to compress the hammer spring enough to get the trigger back into position and then put the pin in. This can take three hands, so you might need a buddy to help you, or alternately, you can buy a special tool to do it, but that's expensive
Did it pop all the way out, or just partially?
When the trigger group is in a rifle, that pin is held captive by the side of the stock. I should have probably mentioned it, but those pins can sometimes vibrate loose. I tend to keep a finger on mine when dry-firign the trigger group so it stays put.
As for getting it back in, if it's only partially out, you just push the trigger/sear forward to compress the hammer spring and using a soft-ish item like hte butt of a plastic screwdriver handle, give it a gentle tap to re-seat it.
If it's totally out, you need to compress the hammer spring enough to get the trigger back into position and then put the pin in. This can take three hands, so you might need a buddy to help you, or alternately, you can buy a special tool to do it, but that's expensive
if this is happening, it means your trigger group trigger pin hole was drilled a lil crooked. Not a huge deal, but will wear the parts a certain way... a lil tilted.
in my opinion, other than the fire the trigger group a hundred times to smoothen it out method..... I would not attempt any further trigger parts adjustment. It does not mean your trigger group is junk, but if you want to build a match gun, look for a quality replacement, and by the way, the pin will NOT walk out once installed into the rifle.
So another thing which I've heard of is that you can turn off the gas cycle by turning that little screw near the the gas piston (don't quite know how to describe it, or what the actual name is). Is that recommendable? I heard it reduces recoil and thereby slightly helps with accuracy, with no real detrimental effects on your rifle.
I'd rather have your word on it before I blow something (aka myself/my rifle) up, though.
I'd rather have your word on it before I blow something (aka myself/my rifle) up, though.
The gas spindle valve. Its for launching rifle grenades. In the off position the gas system is shut off. Turns your rifle into a bolt action so after each shot you rack the oprod.
Recoil? No. Effect on accuracy? Maybe with the rifle locked into a bench rest, other than that, no.
Recoil? No. Effect on accuracy? Maybe with the rifle locked into a bench rest, other than that, no.
I haven't fired my m14 for accuracy yet but within a month or so I expect to have ordered and received my bassett mount. I'm thinking about getting a new op rod spring guide for the rifle but I think I'd rather get parts with american specs since in the long run, availability will be better with those.
Do I need to change anything but the spring to have a sadlak guide fit? Do you think accuracy will be improved further by buying a sadlak op rod as well?
I'm trying to get my rifle to reliably print sub 2MOA groups from the bench to make me feel comfortable using it for hunting. Thanks for all the info guys. It feels great to have a resource like this forum!
Do I need to change anything but the spring to have a sadlak guide fit? Do you think accuracy will be improved further by buying a sadlak op rod as well?
I'm trying to get my rifle to reliably print sub 2MOA groups from the bench to make me feel comfortable using it for hunting. Thanks for all the info guys. It feels great to have a resource like this forum!
a###el;4906735 [B said:
Lots of canadian made spring guides around now. As for the oprod, no. Your best bet is to have that rifle worked over and have the parts professionally fitted by someone like M14 Doctor. USGI stock off the EE ( if you have a chu-wood stock) and a marstar spring guide along with the Doc's conditioning package, should easily do 2" or better with good ammo. Heck it may even do it out of the box.
Holy hell, just realized you're over in sweden. You need a usgi diameter spring to fit the sadlak guide, thats it. Do you guys have any gunsmiths over there with M1/M14 experience?
Yes 2" should be no problem. First get a good tight fitting usgi glass stock and get yourself a match spring guide like you mentioned. Unitizing the gas system would be the only other basic thing I would do after that. Get yourself a copy of The M14 Owners Guide by Scott Duff & John Miller. This book will guide you through the process and has tons of tweaking info. Shimming is fairly simple to do yourself.
As for mounting the scope, not my field, never had the need to scope an M1A/M14.
I do know they can be difficult to scope and require a high quality mount to hold zero. Perhaps someone like Hungry, the Doc or Claven2 can chime in on how to properly mount the scope by yourself.
Thank you! That's inspiring!
I'm thinking step one is spring guide (eventually with a USGI spring if I go with an american guide) and shimming the gas system. Do I need the special shims from marstar or will any guy who finds his way around a mechanical workshop be able to find suitable shims for me? Step two is the stock. Are the glass fiber stocks better than USGI surplus walnut stocks?
I suppose the unitizing can be done as soon as I find a welder at school.
Everyone except for the revered doctor seem to be recommending the bassett mount. Not only is it rather inexpensive( which is a secondary feature), it's supposed to be holding zero well and you can remove it easily to go to a classical look.
Thank you! That's inspiring!
I'm thinking step one is spring guide (eventually with a USGI spring if I go with an american guide) and shimming the gas system. Do I need the special shims from marstar or will any guy who finds his way around a mechanical workshop be able to find suitable shims for me? Step two is the stock. Are the glass fiber stocks better than USGI surplus walnut stocks?
I suppose the unitizing can be done as soon as I find a welder at school.
Shims are at Marstar! USe them and maybe you might not have to do any welding. USGI glass stocks (used) are at www.ellwoodepps.com right NOW. Give them a phone call or an email message.
I just use a Norc op rod spring in my Norc M14 with NM stainless barrel. Does the job for me. Currently I'm rocking a Tartan Tactical op rod spring guide (cgn: robmcleod82) and a Rauch Tactical op rod spring guide for teaching purposes. Both work with the Norc spring.
Yes you will be able to get your groups sub 2MOA with handloaded ammo for your hunting purposes!
Cheers,
Barney
My clients will be the judge and jury on this ... But , without a shred of braggery I have turned a great many of these rifles into sub 2MOA and many Sub 1MOA. Some were box stock and only parts added were spring guide rod.
Having a sadlak is not as important as having a spring and rod that match each other's diameters.
Email me , seen as you are in sweden, I can't work on her BUT I can give you some sound advice and tips on how you can do it yourself.
A holiday to sweden would be very cool, maybe i should do a sweden clinic. LOL
going to the west coast clinic we were ableto make mine shoot 1.75 inch groups at 100yards 5 shots by shortening the barrel, gas block front site unitized gas block and shimed replaced spring guide centerd the oprod and penned the gas block splines note not all the improvment were done there but i was told how to do them and what they look like. i love this thing ive had it since i was 16
Benchrest- As Test
For my 2009 M305 - original synthetic stock, I did some shimming and bought a good op rod guide. I use, for the most part, some good axle grease for all moving parts. I also handload all my shells.
I Benchrest to see how the rifle is performing, in terms of as a guide to how consistent it is shooting.
I use Hornady or Sierra 150 gr. pills. I also have a pile of Winchester (super-x) and Remington (core-loct) ammo. The handloads really outperform.
Using my eyeballs, open sights and elbow for rest, at 100 yards I average between 1-1/2" inch to 2" groups. Tighter if I breath right. I had a few benchrest shots where they were placing very tight (1/2" to 3/4"). That performance really gives me confidence in the gun.
Overall, the gun really performs to my expectations and has a few gophers and a 'yote to it's credit. Looking for a rogue bear now.
For my 2009 M305 - original synthetic stock, I did some shimming and bought a good op rod guide. I use, for the most part, some good axle grease for all moving parts. I also handload all my shells.
I Benchrest to see how the rifle is performing, in terms of as a guide to how consistent it is shooting.
I use Hornady or Sierra 150 gr. pills. I also have a pile of Winchester (super-x) and Remington (core-loct) ammo. The handloads really outperform.
Using my eyeballs, open sights and elbow for rest, at 100 yards I average between 1-1/2" inch to 2" groups. Tighter if I breath right. I had a few benchrest shots where they were placing very tight (1/2" to 3/4"). That performance really gives me confidence in the gun.
Overall, the gun really performs to my expectations and has a few gophers and a 'yote to it's credit. Looking for a rogue bear now.
Does anybody have any experience with the Marstar Deluxe Scope mount? I know they may not be the best of the bunch, but are they worth the money? Also, plenty of people seem to be all about the USGI stocks. What's their advantage?
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