Swedish Ljungman AG42-B

Not a rifle for the faint hearted or the non-mechanically inclined...

I'm planning to track down a Hakim this spring.
 
What more can I add? (nothing really but, that won't stop me!)

I bought mine 25+ years ago, at auction for 80$'s....I was teased by all I hunted with UNTIL they got their test fires!
+'S (imo)
-Accurate
-ammo was cheap (5$ for 20 FMJ surplus or, 14 n'change for 20 remmington or, Winchester from C.T...livin' in the past now.)
-No recoil...sound concussions aside!

-'s (still my lowly "o")
-LOUD, LOUD, LOUD (for all 10 then or, all 5 now)
-Brass flinger allright! Equally as dangerous to the right of the rifle as it is in front!(I've learned here, on CGN, that isn't a big issue if your make the gas port adjustable)
-mind your fingers...it can bite
-Mags/clips only 1 issued per rifle...find one (idiot me, there's 2 in the EE right now)

All in all, a very fine rifle...I got my first deer with one, when I was young n' eager enough to lug it through the bush. They are fun to shoot and, quite accurate (as stated by many) The prices seemed to have "peaked" about a year ago (400+/rifle) but can now be found for sub 300...

One of those rifles that, even those who don't love 'em won't say they hate 'em!

I saw one that was scoped, in Iqaluit...it was a "super nifty" seal-slayer.
 
I recently bought one as well. I found it was one of simplest rifles to field strip, easier to get at all the small parts than an Enfield by far.
As to value, some like corporate sellers have the rifle in the 475+ range while private sellers on teh EE are usually in the 300+ range. I saw a 200 asking price by a fellow who was moving and had to sell pronto.

I've perfered keeping the gas system as is.
 
lubing the case can cause very dangerous pressures on the bolt from back thrust , i would not do this on ANY rifle . this is just asking for trouble .

what is lubing the case suposed to fixed on the ljungman ?

Lack of "Slow Initial Extraction".
It seems to be less of an issue with firearms using a rotating bolt.
If I recall what I read correctly, the ammunition for some types of WW2 era machineguns were issued with factory lubricated casings.

SVT 40's and G3's use fluted chambers as a different solution to the same problem.
 
I was taking the whole rifle a part yesterday and could not remove the trigger asembly screws.
Might be some stuck grease since I doubt this rifle was thoroughly cleaned by the last owner. Any tips on getting them out?

IMG_0809.JPG"
 
Look closely. The screw head is surrounded by a little cup. The trigger guard, cups and screws are staked together. Use a small punch to drive the cup metal out of the notches in the trigger guard and screws. You will still likely have to use force and a heavy duty screwdriver to loosen the screws. There are little spacer bushings on the screws. Don't lose them. The rifle has not been disassembled since it was in Swedish service. Do you suppose the Swedes didn't intend that these screws be removed by the user?
 
I was taking the whole rifle a part yesterday and could not remove the trigger asembly screws.
Might be some stuck grease since I doubt this rifle was thoroughly cleaned by the last owner. Any tips on getting them out?

IMG_0809.JPG"

I would make sure I have a tight fitting screwdriver bit, and use an impact driver, the kind you strike with a mallet.
 
i just got my local gunsmith to do install a adjustable screw at the gas port , cost me 30$ and it looks great. I was tempted to do it myself but i realized i don't have the time, expertise , or the money to fix it if i screw up.

now i can stop using that milsurp stuff and use reloads now that my brass isn't thrown at the target in the next bay.
 
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