Latest project...
- Thread starter NavyShooter
- Start date
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
Amusingly, I have a recently updated video that I'll try and add when I get home tonite....
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
I haven't touched the tank all summer....too busy shooting/sailing/etc but have made the time this week to work on it.
I spent a few minutes with a ruler and discovered I had three problems with the drive-train. All on the same side, all compounding and contributing:
1. Drive sprocket misalignment. The two drive sprockets were misaligned by about 1/4", twisting the track.
2. Road wheel misalignment. Three of the 7 seven road wheels were too far out, amplifying the twist of the track.
3. Rear Idler shaft too short. With 1/2" end-caps on the rear idler, one on each side, I lost an inch of width that I should have had, resulting in one side being aligned properly (within 1/8"), and the other side was 7/8" off.
Number 1 is a result of me not being a welder, and having to take it to a buddy to weld it.
Number 2 is a lack of attention to detail when I was putting things back together the last time I had it apart.
Number 3 is a result of me using the same shaft length from the previos design for my idler wheel, which didn't take into account the 1/2" end-caps on each end.
Solutions:
1. Knocked off and re-welded the drive sprocket, used a section of shaft and key to ensure alignment was correct before welding. (Was present this time and used a keyed shaft to ensure they were properly aligned before the weld was done.)
2. Shortened the offending torsion bars so that the road wheels would seat properly.
3. Bought a new chunk of 5/8" stainless bar for my idler shaft, and cut to slightly over the correct length. IT WORKS.
I flashed 'er up tonight, and spun her around (in place pivoting) in both directions for about 3 minutes, alternating directions every 30 seconds or so, and the last time I ran her, that would have dumped the track.
This time, no problems.
I'm not 100% convinced I have it fixed yet (I have to do an outdoor test run for that) but I'm a lot more confident to take it on an outdoor test run now.
My next step is to dope up some work-able details on it, and see how it looks, some hatch covers, etc.
Life is good!
More pics and video to follow.....
NS
I spent a few minutes with a ruler and discovered I had three problems with the drive-train. All on the same side, all compounding and contributing:
1. Drive sprocket misalignment. The two drive sprockets were misaligned by about 1/4", twisting the track.
2. Road wheel misalignment. Three of the 7 seven road wheels were too far out, amplifying the twist of the track.
3. Rear Idler shaft too short. With 1/2" end-caps on the rear idler, one on each side, I lost an inch of width that I should have had, resulting in one side being aligned properly (within 1/8"), and the other side was 7/8" off.
Number 1 is a result of me not being a welder, and having to take it to a buddy to weld it.
Number 2 is a lack of attention to detail when I was putting things back together the last time I had it apart.
Number 3 is a result of me using the same shaft length from the previos design for my idler wheel, which didn't take into account the 1/2" end-caps on each end.
Solutions:
1. Knocked off and re-welded the drive sprocket, used a section of shaft and key to ensure alignment was correct before welding. (Was present this time and used a keyed shaft to ensure they were properly aligned before the weld was done.)
2. Shortened the offending torsion bars so that the road wheels would seat properly.
3. Bought a new chunk of 5/8" stainless bar for my idler shaft, and cut to slightly over the correct length. IT WORKS.
I flashed 'er up tonight, and spun her around (in place pivoting) in both directions for about 3 minutes, alternating directions every 30 seconds or so, and the last time I ran her, that would have dumped the track.
This time, no problems.
I'm not 100% convinced I have it fixed yet (I have to do an outdoor test run for that) but I'm a lot more confident to take it on an outdoor test run now.
My next step is to dope up some work-able details on it, and see how it looks, some hatch covers, etc.
Life is good!
More pics and video to follow.....
NS
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
BOOH-YEAH!!!
I've got the gun working-ish.
At 40 PSI, it shatters nerf darts against the wall.
I'm thinking of tuning it down to 20 PSI-ish.
Life is good!
Pics/Vid to follow....
NS
I've got the gun working-ish.
At 40 PSI, it shatters nerf darts against the wall.
I'm thinking of tuning it down to 20 PSI-ish.
Life is good!
Pics/Vid to follow....
NS
Donny Fenn1
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- East Kootenays
i love the fact that you are doing that in your living room
you have a very understanding wife
BOOH-YEAH!!!
I've got the gun working-ish.
At 40 PSI, it shatters nerf darts against the wall.
I'm thinking of tuning it down to 20 PSI-ish.
Life is good!
Pics/Vid to follow....
NS
TUNING IT DOWN
I have it on good authority that 150psi will put a ball bearing through a 2x4
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
Here we have a photo of the gun system in it's 2nd iteration.
I expect to add some extra tank-age for air, that way I can get a few more shots out of it.
NS
I expect to add some extra tank-age for air, that way I can get a few more shots out of it.
NS
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
Well,
As a little update, the tank works, but the gun does not. Yet.
I'm pondering ideas for it, and we'll get something figured out eventually.
In the meantime, the remainder of the tank (with exception of minor details) is complete.
If the weather co-operates, I may try and run it outside tomorrow. We'll see.
NS
As a little update, the tank works, but the gun does not. Yet.
I'm pondering ideas for it, and we'll get something figured out eventually.
In the meantime, the remainder of the tank (with exception of minor details) is complete.
If the weather co-operates, I may try and run it outside tomorrow. We'll see.
NS
Have you thought of using a paint-ball gun as an action? With a CO2 tank, you could get lots of shots. You could also probably get foam balls the size of a paintball at a dollar store or craft store. With your talent, you could probably modify it to shoot ping-pong balls. Also, several years ago, there were plans for an air-powered bazooka made from ABS pipe that fired a foam cup full of bearings, but I'll be darned if I remember where I saw them. I think it was in a Paladin Press book, but not sure.
If it were mine, I would build the gun from ABS plastic and set up a solenoid valve to feed the combustion chamber with a consistent volume of propane from a standard camping cylinder. Projectile being a muzzle loaded POTATO. You sharpen the muzzle to slice off the excess and achieve a nice tight fit to the bore.
Combustion chamber is made of 4"ABS, caps both ends, firing mechanism a BBQ piezo-electric igniter. Barrel made of 2" ABS necked down from the combustion chamber by a reducer fitting.
If you do this, your boy will require SUPERVISION when firing the main gun The potato will go a couple hundred meters, easy, and will penetrate a windshield within 75 meters or so (don't ask).
For the machine gun, I would mount a full-auto paintball marker in tandem with the main gun up in the turret.
Work up the volume of propane like handloading. You don't want to overdo it unless you build from steel.
Combustion chamber is made of 4"ABS, caps both ends, firing mechanism a BBQ piezo-electric igniter. Barrel made of 2" ABS necked down from the combustion chamber by a reducer fitting.
If you do this, your boy will require SUPERVISION when firing the main gun
The potato will go a couple hundred meters, easy, and will penetrate a windshield within 75 meters or so (don't ask). For the machine gun, I would mount a full-auto paintball marker in tandem with the main gun up in the turret.
Work up the volume of propane like handloading. You don't want to overdo it unless you build from steel.
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
C2,
I have some experiene with Spud guns....
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/econolodge/spud.mpg
Been doing it for a while.
A Spud gun will not fit in the available space.
Part of my problem with the pneumatic system was again, lack of space. There isn't enough room to fit a proper cylinder in the turret for the air valve to dump. I was working with a 4" section of 3" pipe. Not enough space, not enough air.
So I'm leaning towards a Black powder system, with blanks, and no projectiles (lose the Nerf....gain smoke and boom.)
NS
I have some experiene with Spud guns....
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/econolodge/spud.mpg
Been doing it for a while.
A Spud gun will not fit in the available space.
Part of my problem with the pneumatic system was again, lack of space. There isn't enough room to fit a proper cylinder in the turret for the air valve to dump. I was working with a 4" section of 3" pipe. Not enough space, not enough air.
So I'm leaning towards a Black powder system, with blanks, and no projectiles (lose the Nerf....gain smoke and boom.)
NS
