Glock .40 reloads

carsmovies

carsmovies

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I have a G17 and G21 but was debatting getting a G35 in .40. Someone at the club today mentioned that glock .40's buldge the casing too much making it difficult to reload for them. Any credence to that?
 
I have experienced issues reloading brass fired from a G22 – arising from a bulge in the side near the base of the case. This is a consequence of the partially supported chamber used on Glock barrels.

Whether or not it the problem occurs seems to depend on several things including the strength of the brass, the load used, and the number of times the case has been reloaded.

The best solution I have found is to use either new brass or brass that has been full length resized, and reload it only once or twice.

Snapshot
 
1. aftermarket barrels usually have fully supported chambers, are match grade and will shoot lead and will cost you about 220 dollars

2. yes it does, and 9mm is not really worth reloading, unless you shoot a crap load
 
martinjozwa said:
1. aftermarket barrels usually have fully supported chambers, are match grade and will shoot lead and will cost you about 220 dollars

2. yes it does, and 9mm is not really worth reloading, unless you shoot a crap load
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1. Will it solve the problem for OP to buy aftermarket barrel?

2. 9mm IS worth reloading for OP, based on his question he will shoot action games and will use a lot of ammo. However his interest is .40cal so this is moot point.
 
carsmovies said:
9mm doesn't have the same problem cause you don't have to reload 9mm to make major so it doesn't buldge the same. Also where did you hear that 9mm isn't really worth reloading? Saves me a bunch of cash.
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like i said, if you shoot lots, you are fine. if you dont, its not worth the startup costs, thats my opinion

as far as the M&P option goes, The m&p offers the "L" variant on the 40 and 9mm i believe , to compete with the glock 35 and 34, and comes with the regular thread advantage
 
Just get yourself a Lee factory crimp die. Returns the case to factory spec, bulge is gone and the cartridge will work perfectly. Best reloading money you can spend. Cheap, too.
 
I got Glocks, but I am also considering M&P 9 Pro edition.
It has trigger job, extended barrel 5in and it shoots like a dream.

Friend had it out on the range last week, and I had a chance to try it out.
It is on the 'definite buy' list now.

Smith&Wesson makes M&P 40 Pro as well.
 
Good advise but I don't reload myself. I do give my brass for someone else to reload for me though but he uses commercial size reload equipment so maybe he won't have an issue with my brass from a G35.
 
If you purchase G35, you could buy G34 barrel (OEM or aftermarket), and use your G17 mags to shoot 9mm.
It would most likely work fine and you would not need to change extractor etc... as is the case with many people that did same with G23 and G19.

Could there be any technical/ ballistic reason that such combination would be less accurate then original complete G34?
 
For what its worth, I have been loading for Glocks for years in 9, 40, 357sig and 45 using stock barrels.
I have never encountered the much feared "bulge" that is so apparently common and slide-stopping. I have seen the minor swelling at the base which is common but have yet to have it remain after resizing. I also use the Lee FCD and it has functioned perfectly every time. FYI, I have loaded the mild to wild loads. Now, that is not to say it doesnt exist, as I have seen some distorted brass but its not always been from Glocks as there are others out there with the 'unsupported chambers'. If I see its that badly swelled I dont even bother to attempt to reload it as brass is cheap(see it on range brass where the gun fires out of battery). Others may have experienced different results, but I have only loaded 15-20K rounds for the Glock over the years:redface:.
dB
 
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