Cut down shotgun grip - now with pics

(((Echo)))

(((Echo)))

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After reading the posts about people who've lopped off their shotguns to barely legal lengths, I've decided to try my hand at this butcher...ahem...."modification" :p.

I have a H&R Sportster that's already been under the blade, barrel wise. Now I'm thinking of cutting the stock. I've measured it all out and I can do this and still remain legal.

My one major concern is: what do you do with the gap where the stock bolt passes through the grip?
I sketched mine out where the bolt travels through the stock. If I cut and shape the grip, there will be a large hole around the upper third of the grip where the stock bolt will go.
What did you guys do about this? Fit a dowel and stain? Wood putty? Any pics or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks all
(E) :cool:
 
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:needPics: I havnt bean neer a lab sinse hi skool...40 years ago....lol...whats a rubber lab stopper look like....and where would you find one
 
Just though I'd throw in a quick update as to where I'm at with this.

Everything mapped out.
PC030032.jpg


Cuts made. no turning back now :eek:
PC030035.jpg

PC030037.jpg


Gonna have to fill this in with some putty I think.
PC030039.jpg


After some sanding, a quick fit to see how she looks.
PC040031.jpg

PC040034.jpg


Before the obvious is stated, yes, the bolt is going to have to be shortened and sunk in deeper. The grip needs a lot more shaping and sanding but I think it's coming along nicely.

(E) :cool:
 
If you can find an allen head bolt that will fit...it will have a smaller diameter head on it ...Your shorty looks really good so far...I bought a single shot 12 gauge by CIL a month ago .... I cut the barrel down to 18.25 in as soon as I got it but couldnt bring myself to cut the stock...YET !!...No problems registering .

I did a shot pattern before and after the cut and the shot pattern was better than I expected....this will limit the effective range down to 15 - 20 yards or so....But it is perfect for me as a truck gun or on my atv.
 
I'm definitely looking for an allen head bolt or a large headed machine screw...something where I don't need clearance for the socket to remove. Also, once I'm done sculpting, I'm going to give it to my old supervisor and have him dip it. That will hide all the putty and what not. Maybe a wood burl pattern. :D

(E) :cool:
 
Put a bronze bushing in the hole and it will help keep the bolt from cracking the stock or loosening. Here's a pic of a stockset I just did for a SBS build, had to ream a pretty deep recess in the grip, but it came out clean and kept the bolt head from being able to bite anything. Birdshead grips can be a PITA, glad to see you didn't have any issues.

SBSdouble.jpg
 
Nice lookin' SxS!

By my rough estimates, I'll need a 1½-2" bolt depending on what type I can get and depth I drill to. It's a 4" bolt on there now, so I'll be drilling a bit to hide her. No matter what type bolt goes in the hole, I plan on adding a washer and below that some JB Weld as a bedding agent.
The washer that was in there went MIA (and took out three teeth of my saw blade) on the second cut. Forgot it was in there:redface: .

(E) :cool:
 
(((Echo))) said:
I'm definitely looking for an allen head bolt or a large headed machine screw...something where I don't need clearance for the socket to remove.
Click to expand...

If it helps, you are looking for a socket head cap screw. If you can find a fastener supplier that sells small quantities they will almost certainly have what you need and the SHCS will have the smallest head possible for the smallest hole possible.

The project looks good so far.

Mark
 
Also, I wasn't specific in my other post. Use a bronze 'flange' bushing. A pan head Allen screw will make things easier too, sometimes you can't get them in the oddball sizes that they use for some of these shotguns. That Stoeger was a 1/4"x28 thread which was really odd.
 
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