I have full length sized new brass in the past but wonder if it has to be to the extent the shell holder and die must meet. Would neck sizing only suffice? Or would partial sizing in a FL die work as well? With some once fired brass a full length die was used until the rounds would chamber without requiring the die and shell holder to touch.
Full length sizing new brass
- Thread starter horseman2
- Start date
Pathfinder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northeast Ontario
They mostly need neck sizing as quite a few get bent in shipping/storage etc. It really depends on the gun.....I did have on gun that I had to turn the die down a little further so that the casings would chamber properly......tighter chamber.
I would say neck size and if they chamber without extra effort keep going. Just my 2 cents.
I would say neck size and if they chamber without extra effort keep going. Just my 2 cents.
This topic comes up with the same regularity as the topic of getting live primers out of a case.
The primer topic always splits about 50-50, between those of us who just push out the live primer and those who think the practice is dangerous and won't do it.
The sizing a new case also splits about 50-50, between those of us who never size a new case, unless it is noticeably damaged, and those people who always resize and trim a new case.
My take is that when we buy Remington brasss, for example, it comes out of the same machine that supplies their loading equipment that makes the ammunition they load into little boxes and sell to the shooters.
Does anyone think our little press on the bench that we screw dies into, can do a more precise job of sizing the brass, than can the huge, prescission made machinery the factory uses?
I don't think so.
The primer topic always splits about 50-50, between those of us who just push out the live primer and those who think the practice is dangerous and won't do it.
The sizing a new case also splits about 50-50, between those of us who never size a new case, unless it is noticeably damaged, and those people who always resize and trim a new case.
My take is that when we buy Remington brasss, for example, it comes out of the same machine that supplies their loading equipment that makes the ammunition they load into little boxes and sell to the shooters.
Does anyone think our little press on the bench that we screw dies into, can do a more precise job of sizing the brass, than can the huge, prescission made machinery the factory uses?
I don't think so.
I tend to agree, and for the most part feel partial neck sizing is more than adequate to ensure that any shipping deformation is dealt with.
Since we are speaking about brand new unloaded brass, how long does it take to chamber 100 rounds through the gun to make sure none are oversized?
In the majority of cases, you can run a brand new minimum spec case through a full length die and the body won't even touch the sides. You probably don't even need lube so there is nothing to even clean off. Takes a few minutes per bag.
Whether you think you are full length, partial sizeing or sizeing with a neck die, you are actually just neck sizeing.
I routinely size most new cases just to round out the necks. If it doesn't do anything else, at least I can chamfer the cases without it looking like a beaver was chewing on them. Chamfering square mouths doesn't cut it, and shaveing bullets doesn't either.
As for our little presses versus the ammo maker's big machines, roll test some factory ammo for run-out and get back to me. Then weigh some charges. Then shoot some long range groups.
Whether you think you are full length, partial sizeing or sizeing with a neck die, you are actually just neck sizeing.
I routinely size most new cases just to round out the necks. If it doesn't do anything else, at least I can chamfer the cases without it looking like a beaver was chewing on them. Chamfering square mouths doesn't cut it, and shaveing bullets doesn't either.
As for our little presses versus the ammo maker's big machines, roll test some factory ammo for run-out and get back to me. Then weigh some charges. Then shoot some long range groups.
- Location
- Saskatoon, SK
I thought this was the reason people went to hand loading. Poor tolerances on factory loads. How many rounds do they do before they consider a die worn out? Millions?
I opened up six 30-06 case last night, and if the powder measure has any bearing on case sizing, the factory stuff is junk.
I loaded a batch of new brass in .270 Winchester a number of years ago and they were not tight enough to stop the bullet from moving forward in the case and then bind in the magazine.
Since I don't have a neck sizing die it will be a partial sizing of the neck.
From a bag of Remington .260 Rem there were 53 cases. When Segregated to weight, 50 were selected that weighed 161.0 to 163.6. The other thre were heavier but all around 164.3
Thank you so very much for your help
Since I don't have a neck sizing die it will be a partial sizing of the neck.
From a bag of Remington .260 Rem there were 53 cases. When Segregated to weight, 50 were selected that weighed 161.0 to 163.6. The other thre were heavier but all around 164.3
Thank you so very much for your help
What brand of .270? I had the same problem with loose necks with a few bags of Remington .375 H&H. About 10% were split before I even started, with a overlapping fold in the neck that wasn't visible before they were sized. There's another reason to size new brass, if you needed one.
I agree with this, I just set my die to full length size and carry on, usually I'm only neck sizing anyway, since the brass is undersize already, but do use lube, because you will find the odd one that needs it, ask me how I know this!
For rifle bottle necked cartridges I always full length size. I lube every second round. The only issues I encounter is removing the casing from the die once in a while. As for the factory ammo question... I can make far more superior and consistent loads than any make I've encountered(especially the alleged match factory stuff)
Well, I re-size it all, twice. Once, turn it 180 degrees, then again. If for no other reason than to even out the necks, but this makes the case a little more concentric. Then I de-burr the flash holes. Then I trim it all, and there are often lots of brass trimmings. Then I uniform the primer pockets. I know that this is considered redundant by many. I also will say that I just started doing this in the past year. For many years, I simply make ammo to make hunting cheaper, then I wanted to make it more accurate, then simpler. Now, I have pet loads, and the only way to get it better is with the case. No longer able to change the components (never went to the premium bullet side of the house, don't think they are necessary) so what's left? Make the case as uniform as possible.
No, I don't bother weighing and sorting cases, primers, bullets. Not that much of a accuracy freak, Just want things to group sub MOA for the bench.
No, I don't bother weighing and sorting cases, primers, bullets. Not that much of a accuracy freak, Just want things to group sub MOA for the bench.
