Help! Either I'm a bad shot or all my guns are no good!

pointfive0

BANNED
BANNED
BANNED
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've been shooting my .50 muzzleloader, .30-06 Kar98 replica (Columbian FN), and shot my .303 Enfield for the first time today.

My aim is really really bad... I think. I am shooting off my trucks tailgate resting on a backpack. I'm pretty sure that my hand is as steady as can be like this. I mean for 10 seconds I am not moving.

I am at a total loss here. I understand that you need to adjust your gun the further you go. This is obvious. I can see my .303 shooting consistently to the left, and my .50 wayyy off to the right.

What is the proper method in sighting guns with no scopes??? What is really bothering me is the lack of grouping. I'm thinking the sights on the Mk1 No 4 Lee Enfield are terrible. It's just a huge open sight. How badly does wind affect your shot? Should I wait for a nice quiet day?

Help!
 
I have a very old 22 with peeps on it that I couldnt hit the broad side of a barn with and it was a competition rifle in its day. I used a bore sight I got from Wholesale sports for about $30 made by Bushnell. Next time out put 3 bullets in the same hole in the centre of the target at 25m. Works quite well and seems to be the only sure fire method I can think of other than getting really close and going thru a lot of ammo. Good luck.
You can also make up a steady rest and pull the bolt out to sight thru the barrel. Then look at the sights and see if they agree.
 
Shooting off your truck is inappropriate, never mind a poor rest.

Set up with sand bags front and rear, or better yet use a proper rest. If you are sighting in you want to stabilize both the forestock and under the buttstock. Also, do not use a bullseye target, use a diamond shape that is big enough or close enough for you to see with your open sights. Bullseye targets are designed to be difficult to shoot well.

Once you are sighted in you can then practice shooting from whatever positions you want; at least then you will know it is you - not the rifle.
 
If your shooting off a tailgate the wind will be rocking the truck and you. Try setting up on a more solid base or better yet go to a shooting range with benches and use some type of stable rest. If you do this you can more easily analyse your technique such as breathing, trigger pull, cheek weld etc. I need geezer glasses to read now but the aperture sights on a lee enfield still lets met shoot 2 to 3 inch groups at 100 yards. Good luck.
 
There are two accuracy issues - grouping and zero.


Zero meams it shoots to point of aim at the distance selected. This is acomplished by moving the rear sight up or down and the front or rear sight, left to right.


Grouping depends on the ability of the shooter and the performance of the rifle/ammo.

At 50 yards you should be able to get groups under 2", resting off a tail gate.

If it was me, I would aim the back of the truck at the target, and lay down in the truck bed, resting my rifle on the pack.

Each of us has to adjust our sights so the rifle shoots to point of aim. That is why sight are adjsutable.

If you drift the front sight, move it the opposite way you want the bullets to shift.
 
I assume you're truly just staring out? If so, as stated make sure your rest is rock stable and you are comfortable. You may do better shooting prone.

Second, move closer. Start out at 40 yds or so, closer if you have to.

Third, if you are starting out, do the above and you should start seeing groups with some practice.

It's common for people to be surprised it's not as easy as it looks. Good chance you're just pulling, or squeezing the stock. It sounds like you're at least hitting the paper, and that's more than a few first timer's I've seen. Oh, and you're gonna need more ammo. ;)
 
Ummmm, just a few suggestions I can think of. For now pick one rifle and concentrate on it, I would suggest the .30-06. Get off the tailgate and set up a proper bench, or shoot prone with sandbags. The wind matters, when your just starting or starting with a new rifle pick a nice calm day. Start at 50yds, and then when your sighted in move out to 100 and adjust your sights. Trigger pull is huge, nice steady squeeze and follow through by keeping your finger on the trigger and keeping your face planted on the stock. By lifting your head to fast you may actually shake your rifle before the bullet leaves the barrel. Above all, practice, practice, practice. If you learn some proper techniques and practice you will be well on your way to becoming a better shooter. Finding the right ammo will also give better accuracy, all rifles are different and may require some experimenting with different ammo to find the one that works best.
 
It's also possible you may have a flinch. Unload your rifles, have a friend double check the chamber and magazines are totally empty, not any ammo in sight, so you can dry fire. Get into a prone shooting position at home, rifle held to the shoulder, but unsupported by any block or sandbag. flick off the safety, and have your friend place a dime on top of the barrel, down by the muzzle. Aim, breathe slowly, and squeeze the trigger.

Did the dime fall off? If yes, you likely have a flinch. Another method is to use a laser, and have your friend watch it closely as you dry fire. If it bounces about while your action clicked, you probably have a flinch.

Fix your flinch, and you will be fine. First look at recoil: do you need an absorbing buttpad? Is the muzzle blast too much for you? Do you wear eye glasses/protection? Do you wear good quality ear protection? If you are missing one or more of these, you could have easily developed a bad flinch in a very short time.
 
A big peep sight, you relax and use the force. Wind, you need a ballistics program for that. A 50 yards wind doesn't do much, for example.
It is worth getting a 22lr with a peep sight and relaxing into it.
 
All very good advice! I've shot lots and lots and lots of shotgun and clays. These rifles are a whole different ball game. My tailgate is my cheapest solution for a bench rest. I'm feeling like my stance is rock solid, but I will see what I can scrounge for a little bench and a sandbag, and sit on the ground.

As for the flinch, yes I have MAJOR flinch issues which I'm just about done with. The .303 is so much easier to shoot than the .30-06. The .50 is also easier to shoot. I was amazed at how the sporterized .303 enfield just feels smooth. My .30-06 just cracks me in half every time I shoot it.


off topic i know, but where did you get that Kar98k replica? i would love to own one.

The .30-06 is (was) my dad's. I seem to recall him saying he bought quite a few of them in Europe and sold all but one. Not sure though. This thing looks like it's been through a few battles in the jungle. It's very light and short, and unforgiving if I don't hold it right. I've had it smack me on the nose a couple of times.

Here's a link to the exact same gun I have. Note the comment "Chambered for .30 06 round, this rifle must have kicked like a mule!" (IT DOES!)
 
Don't forget a good breathing technique. Trigger squeeze while holding your breath after half an exhale is how I do it. I filled my moose tags yesterday at 500 yards with my 300 win mag. 2 shots 2 inches apart.

-Dave
 
If you are a shotgunner turned rifleman, trigger pull will be a big issue. I have trouble with the shotgun because I stop and squeeze the trigger. If you master your flinch and the trigger pull you'll have most of your problems solved....... I think.
 
There are a number of points which come to mind, most of which are the basis of basic marksmanship which are covered by the acronym BRASS which stands for; breath, relax, aim, slack, squeeze.

Breath, you must breath for each shot you make. If you rush the shot because you’re lungs are screaming for air, your focus will blur and you will probably yank the trigger disrupting your aim. When you breath pay attention to your natural respiratory pause, you will find that it is repeatable, and that your lungs have the same amount of air in them each time you transition from inhaling to exhaling. Concentrate on making a surprise break during that natural respiratory pause. Some will insist on breathing out all the air in your lungs and that this results in a more stable position. For them it might, but it significantly reduces the amount of time before your vision begins to blur.

Relax; your body must be relaxed. If you are in a proper position, your skeleton supports the rifle not your muscles. You should be able to close your eyes and allow your muscles to go limp, without finding that your sights having moved off target when you open your eyes. If you find that you have to rush the shot due to lack of air, you have lost breath and relax, so start over.

Aim, aiming requires a number of steps. First acquire the sight picture, that is you place the sights on the center of the target. Next you put the front and rear sight in proper relationship to one another, taking care that together they are properly aligned on the center of the target. Finally, shift your focus to the front sight and hold it there, and nowhere else, until the shot is made.

Slack, simply refers to taking the slack out of a two stage military trigger. You press the trigger until you feel the resistance of the sear. From this point it takes little effort to brake the shot.

Squeeze, is a term I dislike as it suggests something we don't mean. Consider a baby squeezing your finger, it grasps your finger and squeezes with his whole hand. That is not what we do on the trigger. You hold the wrist of the stock in a firm handshake grip, and only your trigger finger moves; first through the slack stage of the trigger than through the release of the sear. You make contact with the trigger using the first pad of your index finger, and then you add pressure to the trigger until at some time it brakes. That brake should come as a surprise. With practice it can be compressed into a very short time frame, but it should still be a surprise. That is it should surprise you, not startle you. When the sear brakes, continue to add pressure to the trigger until the gun has settled back from the recoil. That is called follow through. An easy exercise you can conduct at home is to balance a coin, start with a quarter then work your way to a dime, on top of the barrel, near the front sight. You should be able to press the trigger until the contact with the sear brakes and not disturb the coin when the striker falls.

When shooting at paper, work on establishing and checking your natural point of aim. That is where you hold the rifle on target and when you relax your muscles the sights do not swing off target. Small corrections are made to your position until this is achieved. The test as described earlier is to close your eyes, allow your muscles to go slack then open your eyes to determine if the sights have swung off target. Natural point of aim is dependent of a solid supported position, so begin with working on your positions then work your way through the BRASS acronym. Once you can quickly and acquire your natural point of aim by feel, shots in the field on live targets become easier.
 
Yeah, I can see going from shotgun to rifle giving you issues. Boomer gave a pretty spot on breakdown of the basic principles of marksmanship, and studying, practicing and practicing some more those steps can only help to improve your shooting.

I'd even suggest starting at 25m until your sights are adjusted, which should be (for the enfield) impacting about 3/4" below point of aim, and this should put you close to zero at 50m.

Lastly I think besides the flinch which is obviously your biggest problem, the way you grip and release the trigger of a rifle is quite a bit different than a shotgun. Shooting off a rest you should be allowing your shoulder to catch the rifle on recoil and not use your trigger hand to brace the impact. Rather than wrapping your thumb around the wrist of the stock try placing your thumb on the back of the wrist inline with the trigger, and when you squeeze the trigger, exert force equally to your thumb and trigger finger simultaneously in a squeezing fashion, and as has been said let the shot surprise you. This method helps with guns that have a fairly heavy trigger pull because it balances/counteracts the rearward force of exertion on the gun.
Good luck and keep practicing.
 
Reloading is a science; shooting is an art. It can take a while to learn the proper techniques of any art, and it is foolish to think it can all be learned easily.

Practice!
 
I have discovered (by accident) that a 50 lb bag of oats as a front rest works very well. I did this one day while on my way to feed a deer! The deer was looking for me and I found him.
 
Back
Top Bottom