Proper Peep Sight Picture.

I assume you are referring to a bead or rectangular post front sight and a thin rim large aperture rear sight. Once you have a sight picture, concentrate on a good repeatable cheek weld, and focus on the front sight. The rim of the peep and the target should blur as you focus on the front sight. The front sight should be in clear sharp focus. Where the front sight appears in the aperture should be ignored, once you see it through the aperture, simply shift your focus to the front sight.
 
Proper use of a receiver sight does not include the rear aperture in the sight picture. You simply look through the rear (w/o seeing it) and put the top of the front sight on the target. Fast, simple and accurate.


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Boomer got it. Your eye will automatically center the front sight in the hole of the rear sight. Simply place your frint sight on the target and fire. I personally prefer a flat post front sight with POI on the top of the blade. With a round target of say 4" at 100 yards and a point of impact 2" high at that range, the bottom of the target sits on top of the blade and if I do my part, bullet hits dead center.
You can't hit what you can't see so that is why I like a 6 o'clock hold. With that setting most big game rifles will be pretty close out too 200 to 250 yards. Your mileage may differ.
 
Wasnt sure were to ask this, but what it the "proper peep sight" picture on a rifle?

in lieu of a smartarse response here...

find one, and pick it up and put your eye to it. You will notice a fuzzy area with a bright clear center. Now, put the front sight post so the top of the post is at the middle, so when you put the top of the post on the target, the target is in the brightest spot, or just a hair above.
 
Boomer got it. Your eye will automatically center the front sight in the hole of the rear sight. Simply place your frint sight on the target and fire. I personally prefer a flat post front sight with POI on the top of the blade. With a round target of say 4" at 100 yards and a point of impact 2" high at that range, the bottom of the target sits on top of the blade and if I do my part, bullet hits dead center.
You can't hit what you can't see so that is why I like a 6 o'clock hold. With that setting most big game rifles will be pretty close out too 200 to 250 yards. Your mileage may differ.

I like to file the top corners off - so the blade narrows somewhat but is still flat at the top.
 
I assume you are referring to a bead or rectangular post front sight and a thin rim large aperture rear sight. Once you have a sight picture, concentrate on a good repeatable cheek weld, and focus on the front sight. The rim of the peep and the target should blur as you focus on the front sight. The front sight should be in clear sharp focus. Where the front sight appears in the aperture should be ignored, once you see it through the aperture, simply shift your focus to the front sight.

Exactly right. It is critical that you focus on the front sight, making it clear in your vision. The target and rear sight need to be fuzzy. Yes, it sounds counterintuitive, but it will put you on a half man target at 550yards with a 5.56/.223.
 
I am the only person on the planet that must have to purposely center the front blade in the peep.

The whole thing about the front site "aligning it's self" don't work for me, at least with a peep big enough for hunting.
 
I am the only person on the planet that must have to purposely center the front blade in the peep.

The whole thing about the front site "aligning it's self" don't work for me, at least with a peep big enough for hunting.

I think it is just that you think it doesn't work, and keep changing your eye focus, just to make sure.
Try this. Leave both eyes open. Pick out some target, suitable to point an unloaded rifle at, and stare at it. Then throw the gun to your shoulder to aim at the target. That front sight will come up, and whether you think so or not, I will guess your eye has centered it in the peep.
You will have to prove this somewhere that you can shoot. Use a target type that shows when it is hit, like tin cans. Have them fairly close and shoot quite fast.
It might surprise you!
 
I am the only person on the planet that must have to purposely center the front blade in the peep.

The whole thing about the front site "aligning it's self" don't work for me, at least with a peep big enough for hunting.

If your cheek weld is repeatable, where the front site appears in the aperture should be in the same place each time the gun comes to your shoulder. You might find this interesting though; put the front sight on a target, now move your head around slightly keeping the front sight within the confines of the aperture, but with your focus on the front sight, blurring the ghost ring and the target. Now, how much does the front sight move on the target? In other words, provided you can see the front sight within the confines of the aperture, you'll get a hit. Assuming you are normally a good marksman, and assuming your cheek weld is repeatable, your groups will be acceptable.
 
Not trying to hijack the OP's thread but what do people prefer to do with the front sight - ie. just cover the target area,slightly under the target so the target area can be seen, or ???
 
I think most of us prefer the front sight to be a square topped blade, then we sight to hit right on top of the blade. Or, for most hunting, to hit 2 or 3 inches above the blade.
One can do the same with a bead front sight, but sighting is more iffy, than it is with a post.
Also, both eyes should be wide open when shooting with a peep. That way, the other eye looks "through" the front sight. In other words, the entire target can be seen, even though the front sight would appear to be covering part of it.
 
Not trying to hijack the OP's thread but what do people prefer to do with the front sight - ie. just cover the target area,slightly under the target so the target area can be seen, or ???

The reality is that you could aim off-centre of the rear aperture, but you would have to work at it. When everyone talks about your eye automatically aligning itself, your eye will tend to the point where the front sight is clearest, and that will be in the centre of the rear aperture.
As for a bead, it will depend on the range and the cartridge. With the .45-70, the shots are on top of the bead at 50 yards, and under the bead at 100. For me, at least.
 
With the .45-70, the shots are on top of the bead at 50 yards, and under the bead at 100. For me, at least.

I like this idea!!! I'm just waiting for an NECG peep for my N0.1 in .450/.400NE. This technique should work as trajectories are close enough to .45/70 trajectories.
 
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